Dressmaking Lesson from McCall's May, 1908Applying Bands to Skirts – The Shoulder Form for the Butterfly Sleeve – A Pretty Tucked WaistBy Mme. Elise Vautier |
| Quite recently the editor of this magazine received a letter asking for more explicit directions in regard to the bands used for trimming skirts. As this style is now very fashionable, perhaps some of our other readers will be interested to learn more fully of the application of this useful, pretty and, what is better still, inexpensive garniture. |
Fig. 3 (No. 2022) is a very good pattern for a heavy wash skirt, such as everyone is interested in at this time of year. A skirt which needs to be laundered must have certain requirements, and this pattern seems peculiarly fitted for the ordeal. It is better than a circular skirt, because the bias sides of that stretch and pull badly. When making a wash skirt, particularly a heavy one, try to have the tension of the machine as loose as you can without spoiling the looks of the stitching, as this will allow for the shrinking of the cotton. You will notice in Fig. 3, which shows a section of skirt No. 2002, that the bands are in two widths; the lower one, which is cut to fit the skirt, is six inches wide and the two upper ones are not more than three-quarters of an inch each when finished. The lower one, as I say, is cut to fit the skirt. As skirts of the present day flare toward the bottom, a band must be cut to fit if it is to be more than tree or four inches wide. In this case the band pattern comes with that of the skirt, so there will be no trouble. There is, of course, no pattern for the tiny bands. |
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| There are two details in making and applying bands that are most important – one in cutting, the other in stitching. In the wider of the bands displayed on Fig. 3 it is necessary to follow the pattern exactly. Naturally, the material will not be wide enough to cut the entire band, so when cutting, be careful that the piecing comes well back from the center-front. Do not attempt to stitch this wide band to the skirt on both sides. Turn the lower edge up once and stitch before applying to the skirt; then turn under upper edge, apply with bastings to skirt and stitch to match lower edge. This band may be decorated if desired with one or more rows of stitching or braid, or in any way preferred. In this case, the rimming is put on before the band is applied to the skirt. The narrow bands are not shaped, but are cut from a direct bias piece. Some time ago I explained how to make a direct bias, but as cutting from the bias forms such an important detail in any kind of dressmaking, I will venture to repeat directions, especially in the making of bands. The reason a direct bias is so valuable in dressmaking is because any piece of goods cut in this way is elastic and can be twisted and turned to fit much more readily than a straight piece. |
If you are an inexperienced sewer, it is well to be very careful in details. If you expect to cut bands, see that the end of the material from which they are to be cut is perfectly even, then find the square of your goods. If it is a yard wide, mark off a yard in length with pins or a piece of chalk; then put together the corners which are diagonally opposite. This gives you a shawl-shaped piece of goods, the fold of which should be a direct bias. Baste the material firmly together and cut through center of fold; then cut off desired width through both thicknesses at once. It is quite an art to cut these narrow folds nicely, and the only way to do it is to be very careful. If you have not a very correct eye, mark off the proper width with pins or a chalk line, as it is most necessary they should be cut very straight. Cut bands a quarter of an inch wider than you really want them, as they pull narrow when handled. After the narrow bands are cut, both sides should be turned under and basted – of course, after they have been pieced together and before the band is applied to the garment, then a single basting is run through the center, which will hold it in position on the skirt. These narrow bands must be stitched on both edges to the skirt, and it is very important that both sides be stitched the same way – that is, do not run one row of stitching from right to left and the other from left to right. If possible, always run them on the machine in the same direction, no matter how many rows of stitching are to be used. This applies not only to bands, but to anything that has more than one row of stitching. The reason for this is that all machines push the top piece of material a little; some push more than others, and it looks better for both sides of a band to be pushed in the same direction than for one side to push to the right and the other to the left. No. 2022 is cut in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure. The price of the pattern is 15 cents. |
Fig. 4 shows a pretty idea for trimming a striped skirt with double bias bands of the same material. They are just a little bit more trouble to make than the ordinary bias band, but the effect is really very good and is decidedly newer and less common. They may be cut any width. When cutting these bands, only half the necessary length and width is cut from one corner of the goods; the other half must be cut from another corner. This is to make the stripes run in opposite directions. If you make the first bias from the upper left tot the lower right corner of the goods, cut the second from the lower left to the upper right corner. This will leave you with a V-shaped piece, from which short lengths may be cut if desired. These directions are for a band that reaches around the entire skirt. If the band is to be pointed in the front, like the model shown here, it must be pieced in the center-back, where the flare of the bias stripes must meet; this will bring the point formed by the bias stripes each side of the center-front. The bands may be cut in the manner described above, but care must be taken in piecing them together that both halves are not made for the same side of the skirt. |
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Fig. 5 illustrates a new idea for trimming with bands of different widths and materials. This idea is particularly effective for trimming a young girl’s skirt. If there is a coat to go with the skirt, the collar and cuffs may also be of the stripe. If this method of trimming be determined upon, first decide how far from the bottom of the skirt the striped band is to be placed, then mark the place for the lower edge of the band with pins or a thread and baste both sides to the skirt. It need not be stitched. The narrow bands are now cut and prepared to apply to position either side of the wide one. The preparation of these narrow bands has been already described. When sewing to position, be sure both edges of the striped band are covered. The same row of stitching holds both wide and narrow bands. |
Now, just one word about double folds. These are often used to simulate deep tucks. When the skirt flares a great deal around the lower edge it is not an easy matter to put in even two-inch tucks; it is much easier to make the skirt up plain and then to adjust these folds in the position preferred. If these double folds are to be made, fold over the bias edge of your material to the desired width and baste to position before cutting. Then join widths, press seams flat, turn under top edge once and baste. Then baste to position on skirt, stitching carefully on the extreme upper edge. As a rule, these folds cannot be made more than tree or, at the most, four inches wide; but, of course, it all depends on how rapidly a skirt flares toward the bottom. The folds must not pull in around the lower edge.
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Fig. 2 shows a tucked waist (No.1901) with one of the new sleeves. This really is a very pretty model. The most effective material to use in making it is one of the soft wash silks or any lingerie goods, and if possible the tucks should be run by hand. They are so much softer and look much better in every way than when made by machine. And really, with these soft materials it does not take much longer than by machine. This waist is made over a lining, which should first be cut and fitted and the outer portions then draped over it, after they have been tucked. After the lining has been fitted and stitched, press the seams open very flat, then bone them if desired or necessary. One bone on each dart, one under each arm and one in the center-back is generally all that is necessary. If no bones are to be used, and many people do not require them, press all seams open flat and put wrong side of lining to wrong side of waist. This makes a neat finish, and is very little trouble; but the bones cannot be put between the lining and outside, as they would show through the thin outer material. The sleeve of this waist is very easy to fit, because there is no fullness over the shoulder. It is sewed in perfectly plain to the waist. The pattern is marked so clearly and completely that it is practically impossible to make a mistake. The sleeves are prettier and more becoming than most of the Oriental-looking patterns, because, being so fully tucked, they stand out and so give more breadth to the shoulders, which is always desirable. The waist has one more advantage which I surely must not omit mentioning, and that is it fastens in the front, and this means quick dressing, which is many times most necessary. Pattern No. 1901 is from thirty –two to forty-two inches bust measure, and the price is 15 cents.
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Fig 1 shows a model for a shoulder form to be worn under the new butterfly coat sleeves. These sleeves are new and fashionable, but if one has narrow or very sloping shoulders they are more than apt to be unbecoming. These forms are made of buckram and featherboning (the heavy kind, such as is used in skirts). It will require about a quarter of a yard of buckram and about two and a half yards of featherbone to make them. The pattern for these forms cannot be bought; they are very simple to make, so that no pattern seems necessary. A close inspection of the model shown here will give you a good idea of the shape, and the dimensions are given below. These, of course, will have to be altered according to the needs of the wearer. Do not make the mistake of making the forms too broad, so that they will make the shoulders look out of all proportion. You will notice that the narrow end of the model shown here has one side a trifle longer and more pointed than the other. The narrow end is fitted around the base of the collar at the shoulder and the pointed end goes toward the back. The dimensions of this form, which is large size, are: Through the center, from neck to edge of the shoulder, ten inches; the short side, nine inches; long side, nine and a half inches; around narrow end, two and three-quarter inches, and around wide end, seven inches. After the pattern has been cut according to these dimensions and as nearly the shape of Fig. 1 as may be, try it on the wearer under the coat it is to be worn with and modify it as deemed necessary. Then run W-shaped rows of machine stitching through it as shown in Fig. 1. The model is now ready for the four rows of featherboning. These are put on by machine, each row of boning being stitched twice – once on either side – so as to hold it firm. When the form is adjusted, it must be put in outside the lining. It would seem better to slip the form in between lining and outside, but if this is done the outline of the form shows through. The best way is to cover the form with the lignin material before putting it in the coat. Cut lining large enough to lap over all edges of the form and baste it to position; then, when the form is finally applied to coat, the form is hemmed in by hand to lining of coat around all edges. Pattern No. 1994 is shown worn over this form. This handsome butterfly jacket is cut in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure. The price is fifteen cents. |
