Draping With Two Straight Lengths

A Simple Style for Which the Material Is Cut Only at the Hem Line and the Neck Line

from Draping and Designing With Scissors and Cloth
published by The Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences, Inc.
1924

Materials

          For the simple model shown in Fig. 2, which is developed out of two straight lengths of material and requires very little sewing, figured crepe de Chine, Canton crepe, cotton crepe, or figured voile may be used. The only requirements are that the material be 40 inches wide and not transparent.

          Because of the nature of the style, this dress looks best on a misses’ figure or a woman whose bust measure is not more than 38. For such a person of average height, 3 ½ yards of material, ¼ yard of collar trimming, and 4 ½ yards of narrow ribbon for the waist line are needed.

Fig. 2

Draping The Front

          No foundation lining, but a foundation belt is required. Place the belt at the desired waist line, preferably several inches below the normal waist line, bring it together at the back, and pin it.

           Fig. 2 (a). – Begin with the draping of the front. Pin one crosswise end of the material at the neck line so that it extends just a little above the top of the shoulders, as show. Adjust and pin the material smoothly to the belt across the front, allowing it to blouse slightly. Determine the length desired plus the width of the hem, add 2 inches for the tuck at the hip line, and then cut. However, before you attempt to cut it, draw threads in the material in order to obtain perfectly straight ends.

Fig. 2a

          Fig. 2 (b). – At the back of the figure, drape the material and pin it to the belt, as shown, taking care not to draw it too tight across the front and the hips. To make it lie smoothly over the hips, put in several folds on each side. You will notice that these folds draw the skirt up slightly at the lower edges in the back.

Fig.2b

          Fig. 2 (c). – If your hip measure is large, you will find that the material does not meet at the back. In such case, pin it around the belt as far as it will go, lay in a fold at each side of the back, and pin to the belt, as shown. Then, about 3 inches down from the belt, lay in a 1-inch upstanding tuck and pin this near the selvage in order to lift the skirt slightly at the selvage and have it in readiness for the front tuck.

Fig. 2c

Draping The Back

          Fig. 2 (d). – You are now ready to drape the back. Fold over crosswise 6 inches of the remaining piece of material and adjust the folded edge to the shoulders, as shown, so that it overlaps the front piece slightly at the shoulders and more as it nears the elbow. Pin carefully, letting the pins run right down to the selvage, or only part way down if more freedom is desired.
          With a temporary tape tied at the waist line, adjust the fullness at the back and sides and pin to the belt. Then, remove the tape, and run a shirr string along the line of pins across the back.

Fig. 2d

          Fig. 2 (e). – Now tie the ribbon at the waist line, as shown, running it across the front, crossing it at the back, bringing one end across the front again a few inches below the waist line, and tying it at the left side. Allow a sufficient amount in the top piece at the left to permit of a finish when the dress is opened here. Pin the ribbon to the dress at intervals, drawing up the front skirt material under the lower piece, as shown, to form a turned-up tuck. This lifts the front of the skirt so that it is the same distance from the floor as at the selvage in the back.
          Determine the length of skirt plus the hem at the center back, draw a thread, and cut. Mark for the hem in both back and front. You will find that the selvages of the back drop at each side. This gives an uneven hem line, which might be permitted to remain so if desired. If not, mark straight around for the hem. Next, cut the front neck line to produce the desired shape.

Fig. 2e

          Fig. 2 (f). – To the edge of the cape collar, apply a 2-inch band of contrasting material, as shown.

Fig. 2f

Finishing The Dress

          To remove the dress, cut the upper ribbon at the left side and untie the lower one. Mark for snap fasteners at the waist line from the left side to the center back.
          Finish the dress by tacking or sewing neatly where-ever you have put in pins. Tape the left side of the back at the waist line and apply snap fasteners. Also, put in the hem, and bind the front neck line with self-material. The selvages will be sufficient finish for the sleeve edges and the sides of the skirt, although any other appropriate finish may be used. At the skirt bottom, tack the corners of the front to the back.