Magic Bias Slip


Falling into the lines of
each individual figure as if by magic, this slip, ultra modern because
of its bias cut, is a perfect foundation under fitted frocks. And it’s
as fascinating to work out as a picture puzzle, built up, as it is, from
squares and triangles of fabric. For the average figure, you will need 2
½ yards of material, such as flat crepe or radium in silk or rayon. The
measurements given are for the average size, but they may be readily
adapted to smaller or larger types.
Cutting Your Pattern.
– For the skirt sections, provide a piece of paper 27 inches square. Tie
a string 27 inches long to your pencil, and, holding the free end
on
the corner a, as in Fig. 1, draw and arc, as shown. From a,
measure toward you 15 inches and place point b. From the corner
c, measure along the curve 8 inches and place point d.
Connect b and d. From the opposite corner e,
measure along the straight edge 3 inches, place f, indicate g
halfway between e and c, and draw in a new curve from f
to g. Cut from a to b to d to g to
f. Cut four paper patterns like this. For the remainder of the slip,
four 15inch squares of paper are necessary. Number the pattern
sections, place as shown in the diagram, and cut. Mark each fabric
section like its pattern. 


Making the Slip. –
Turn in the edges of the front and back squares a seam’s width and
baste. Baste the remaining sections to these, matching the numbers. Make
the shoulder straps, slip the garment on for fitting and pin on the
shoulder straps. Trim off the corners of the underarm squares, as shown
in the small figure, and keep them for filling in the front and back at
the top. Deepen the seams that join the four squares enough to produce a
snug fit through the bust line. Lessen this seam depth gradually toward
the hip.
Turn in the straight edges of the two triangles removed at the under arm
and place at the center front and center back, the points of these
triangles meeting the points of the squares, as shown in the finished
garment. Mark the lower edge.
Remove
the slip, join the centerfront and centerback skirt sections in plain
seams, then stitch on the edges of the front and back squares and the
small triangles. Face the top edge, holding in the bias edge to the
straight facing. Attach the shoulder straps. Finish the lower edge with
a 1inch hem. Trim off excess seam allowances and press.
Variations for Size. – When the figure is short and slender, lessen
all measurements. When tall and slender, make the squares smaller, but
make the skirt sections the length suggested or longer. Make line ab
the same length as the edge of the square. For the tall, large figure,
increase all measurements. For the short, large type, increase the size
of the squares but not the skirt sections, making the line ab the
same length as the square. 
from Fashion Service magazine, August 1931, pg. 14 
