The New Draped Vogue
A Satin and Lace Evening Gown is Easily Developed on the Figure by the Fascinating Draped Method

from Fashion Service Magazine Winter 1926, pages 8 and 45.

          An evening ensemble created by a Parisian designer and modified to suit the needs of the American woman, is particularly desirable when it can be easily made by the wearer herself, following the method of draping that is employed for the gown opposite. The cape also is easily developed for it resembles the foundation pattern closely.

          The average figure requires, for the foundation slip of the dress, 2 ½ yards of satin and, for the draperies, 2 yards of satin and 2 yards of lace 18 inches wide. In the interests of economy, the two edges of the lace should be alike, and it should be a pattern without definite right and wrong sides. Otherwise, 2 ¼ yards will be necessary.

          Start with a satin foundation slip, making it quite short. The finished dress will appear a little longer because of the uneven line of the drapery. Then, as shown in Fig. 1, pin one corner of the lace to the top of the right shoulder strap and draw the finished edge diagonally across the front of the figure to a point on the left side at the low waist line. The depth of the V neck line may be regulated by locating this point nearer to or farther from the under-arm seam. Pin the lace to the slip at the waist line, as shown, folding in a little fullness at the right under-arm seam. Then cut across the waist line and from the shoulder down to the waist line.

          At the opposite end of the lace, measure off a length equal to the distance from the waist line to the bottom of the slip, having both ends cut straight across. If cutting this the full length of the skirt leaves a piece that is too short for the back (which is similar to the front) have the piece for the skirt shorter, and drop it a short distance below the waist line. Pin this as in Fig. 1 (a) so that one-fourth of its width is attached horizontally and one long edge vertically on the left side of the skirt. The loose edge falls in soft ripples.

          The draping of the back is shown in Fig. 2. A choice of neck lines is possible, as shown in Figs. 2 (a) and 2 (b), that in 2 (a), which is draped as just described for the front, giving the V line of Fig. 2. If the higher line is desired, pin the long point of the diagonally cut end of the lace at the right hip with a few soft folds, and, bringing the finished edge up to the right shoulder, cut straight across and pin the opposite edge at the left shoulder.

          For the satin drapes, divide the 2-yard length in half and cut enough from one selvage to make them 32 inches wide. Using this 36-inch cut edge as the one that extends diagonally across the figure, pin one corner at the left shoulder, as shown in Fig. 2, draw the edge of the material down to the right hip, and pin the edge and also a generous fold at the low waist line. Blouse the material a little and pin it at the center back, as shown. Draw it smoothly across the hips at the center back and lay the fullness in four folds on the left hip, pinning them as in Fig. 3, so that there is a slight blouse above the pins. Below the pins, the fullness falls in graceful folds.

          With the second piece of satin, complete the front in a manner similar to that employed in the back. Pin one corner at the left shoulder, draw the material diagonally across the figure to the right hip and pin it there, blousing and folding is as shown in Fig. 4. Blouse and pin it at the center front, and finally fold all fullness in four folds at the left side and pin them as in Fig. 5. Notice that the lace draped on the skirt is seen under the edge of the satin.

          To finish the dress, face the edges of the satin with 1-inch self-material facings applied by hand, finish the raw edges of the lace with picoting, and replace all pins with tacking-stitches done securely by hand. Cover the waist line with a 1-inch belt of self-material, and over the left hip place an ornament of pearls, rhinestones, and crystals.