Basque Dress

from Fashion Service Magazine Fall/Winter 1923-1924 pages 23 and 24.

          There seems to be no restriction as to fabric selection for a basque design. In daytime frocks, satin, crepe, velvet, and even soft, woolen fabrics are considered correct, while for evening wear, a repetition of satin and velvet and, in addition, chiffon, taffeta, and metal cloth are fashioned into models of charming elegance.
          The fabric choice for the model illustrated here is crepe satin in crow black, a color of inky darkness but lustrous and shining. This color distinction was introduced with the renewed vogue for black to contrast it the more sharply with the dull black that was accorded such prominence several seasons ago.
          Because of the tiered skirt of this model, a comparatively low waist line is essential to maintain the balance of the design. Just below the waist line the upper tier is finished with several rows of shirring, which not only aid in distributing the fullness evenly, but also have a decorative value. Another suggestion of shirring is evident in the sleeves where the short dart is gathered over a cording.
          A collar of the bertha type and narrow turn-back cuffs of cream lace seem the most desirable finish possible for the neck and sleeve edges. Almost any bright, becoming color might be used for the jaunty ribbon tie that finishes the joining of the collar edges at the center back.

Material and Pattern Requirements. – If you are planning to use lining material for the upper portion of the foundation skirt, 5 yards of the satin will be sufficient for developing the dress for the average figure. You may purchase collar and cuffs ready made or obtain ½ yard of 36- or 40-inch all-over lace from which to cut them. The tie requires 1 ½ yards of ribbon.
           For cutting out the dress, provide a semi-fitted basque pattern and a plain, comparatively narrow skirt pattern, or plan to make the skirt of merely straight lengths of material. The tiers requires no shaping, straight pieces of the desired length being used for them.

Cutting and Fitting. – In cutting the foundation skirt, do not provide any greater width than is necessary for the comfort of the individual. Make the skirt in two pieces and, if you intend to have the upper part of a lining fabric, let the dress material extend at least 5 inches up under the lower tier section.
          Make each of the tiers about 2 yards in width, using for each two lengths of fabric and cutting the lower tier long enough to underlap the upper tunic about 5 inches.
           Cut the basque portion of the dress with a little extra length on the front under-arm seam to permit folds or a little fullness to be gathered in at this point, and provide extra length at the back of the sleeve, also, to permit fullness in the dart edge.
          If you intend to make the collar, form a pattern by modeling it in muslin. Plan to bind or hem the lower edge of the tiers.
          In preparation for the fitting, baste the waist and sleeve seams and also those of the foundation skirt if this is of a fitted type. Otherwise, stitch the skirt seams and make the tiers ready for application by stitching their seams, finishing the lower edge of each, and applying rows of shirring at the top.
          In the fitting, adjust the skirt to a long-waisted lining, or, if you prefer to omit the lining, to the basque itself, laying any fullness there may be in the top of the skirt in plaits at each side back and side front. Also, pin the tiers in position and adjust their fullness properly.
          Do not attempt to fit the basque closely at the under-arm seams for, with this type of dress, merely a suggestion of the shaping of the figure is more desirable.

Construction and Finishing. – After finishing the seams of the basque, stitch the skirt and tiers to the waist lining, if one has been provided, and turn under the lower edge of the basque and slip-stitch it over this stitching. If there is no waist lining, simply stitch the basque to the skirt in a plain seam and finish it neatly on the wrong side.
           If the low waist line is too tight to permit the dress to be slipped over the head, make and finish a short opening in the left underarm seam, extending this a few inches above and below the waist line. Also, make a shoulder opening if the neck is not sufficiently broad.
           Complete the dress by gathering the sleeve-dart fullness over a cord, inserting and finishing the sleeves, applying the collar, and securing the hem.