Home Dresses

from Fashion Service Magazine Spring/Summer 1922 pages 37 and 38.

          Husbands and fathers often prefer to see their womenfolk in dainty, fresh home dresses than in any other type, and there is indeed a beautiful sentiment about an attractive gingham or print dress that has lasted through many years. It seems, when it is possible to give so much pleasure by means of a lovely wash dress, that it is almost sacrilegious to wear an untidy or unbecoming one.
          Bright colors that will look well after washing are delightful for home dresses if they are becoming. A home dress, in addition to its becomingness, must be neat and homey. An offensive color hinders these two factors and should be definitely avoided. But there is an ocean of pretty colors of good dye that are becoming, yet not intrusive. Rose, lavender, and many pinks, grays, yellows, tans, and blues are wonderfully attractive alone and often extremely smart when combined.
          The most modest shops boast of unusually pretty patterns in ginghams, chambrays, prints, crepes, and the like, and it is well, too, to remember that in the small shop or store the daintiest pieces are often to be found, because in a “one-man store” the selection is usually made piece by piece and, consequently, a better selection is possible than when case lots are purchased and the crude patterns are in the majority.
          Always, in home dresses, one must think of the laundering, because one of the chief charms of such a dress lies in its absolute freshness. Some home-efficiency engineers said seersucker dresses and tried definitely to promote them, but they lacked neatness and were tabooed by the discriminating housewife.
          But a generous compromise is to be had in Japanese crepe, especially the medium and good grades, which cost 35 to 50 cents a yard. This fabric is usually 32 inches wide. It launders very well and requires only smoothing out, no starch, and thorough ironing. Also, it comes in many colors, one for every whim.
          ‘Tis easy to sew, and surprisingly good results may be attained by one quite new at sewing if a good pattern is at hand and careful stitching is done throughout.

Model 10. – This slip-over model is of Japanese crepe, the original in orange color, with a reddish tobacco-brown trimming. The combination is unusual and pleasing for one who has a clear complexion and hair that can permit of the orange glow.
          For summer, the dress in pink with trimming of white, or gray with trimming of pink is pleasing. The dress may also be embroidered daintily in a color to correspond with the trimming, or the bindings may be the same as the dress and the contrast used only in the embroidery.
          For this dress, 4 ½ yards of material is required, with ¾ yard of contrasting color for the bindings and button coverings.
          Provide, for the blouse, a long-waisted kimono sleeve pattern that has a panel front and back. To have the center front and center back on a straight grain of the material is important in crepe, for it insures a garment that will “set” rightly when on; also, one that will retain its correct shape after it is laundered.
          For the skirt, cut two full widths of material of the skirt length, measured from the low waist line, plus allowance for a hem.
          Cut pieces 7 inches long and 8 inches wide for the pockets, and then shape the upper edge. For the sash, cut two strips, each 1 ¼ yards long and 6 inches wide.
          As all the bindings except those used for the pockets are applied to practically straight edges, you may cut them lengthwise of the material and a scant 1 inch wide, for straight bindings are easier to apply than bias ones. Cut bias bindings for the pockets, however, as these are needed on curved edges.
          After making sure that the panel widths are becoming, bind both lengthwise edges of the front and back panels, the lower edge of the front panel, and also the long edges and one end of each strip provided for the sash. Gather the raw end of each sash portion and baste it to the front panel. Then join the side waist sections to the panels by laying the bound panel edges over the edges of the side sections so that a seam’s width extends underneath the panels and stitching close to the binding, securing the sash ends, also, with this stitching.
          Seam the skirt and gather the waist line. Then join this to the lower edge of the waist in a plain seam, letting the lower portion of the front panel extend down over the skirt.
          Complete the dress by turning and securing the skirt hem, binding the neck and sleeve edges, binding and applying the pockets, and sewing the self-covered buttons to the front panel.

          Model 10A. – Miss Modesty seems the right name for this model, which is developed of tissue gingham in white and soft, green plaid, with a matching green voile as trimming. Lace, if desired, may be substituted for the voile, and set on rather than set in, as lace usually is. In such an event, a bias sash of the dress material would necessarily be used.
          The daintiness of this dress gives it possibilities in many materials, especially voile, organdie, dimity, Swiss, etc.
          Average material requirements for this model include 4 ½ yards of plaid and 1 yard of plain color.
          For cutting out the waist, use a plain-waist pattern having a straight vest portion and straight set-in sleeves. No patterns are needed for the collar and cuffs, as these are merely straight pieces of material. Cut the strips for these 7 inches wide, this including allowance for a ¾-inch hem. Make the collar strip of a length sufficient to extend around the neck line and down each side to a low waist line, and the cuff strips 1 ½ or 2 inches longer than the measurement of the lower edge of the sleeves.
          Cut two full widths of material for the skirt, and, for the sash, cut straight strips about 6 inches wide and of a length that, when seamed together, will be 2 ½ or 3 yards.
          For the trimming bands, cut strips about 2 inches wide.
          To apply the trimming bands, turn under both edges and stitch close to these turned edges. Arrange the bands on the collar and cuffs so that the stitching of the outside edge of the band will catch the edge of the ¾-inch hems.
          Before applying the cuffs, stitch the ends in a bias seam to make the cuff flare a trifle. To make the collar fit properly around the neck, fold in tiny plaits at the back neck line.
          Arrange the skirt seams so that one will fall at the right side front and the other at the left side back, each at the inside edge of the plaits that indicate the panel lines. By turning under the ends of the side trimming bands exactly even with the inside edge of the plaits, the joining will not be conspicuous.
          Join the waist and skirt to a soft inside belting, and have the sash picoted or bind it with the trimming material.