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Not from “somewhere in
France,” but decidedly from Paris is this suit (Designs 8310 and
8288). The coat is distinctly unusual without being difficult to
make, and either a 27 or 32 inch length at the back is correct. The
convertible collar is pretty buttoned or worn open. A plain coat
sleeve or the fuller type illustrated provides for diverse feminine
taste. The six-piece skirt has a slightly raised waistline, and belt
sections can be used. Two box plaits at each side insure a correct
ripple. Serge, gabardine, and soft worsteds are suitable materials.
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“Pedestrians have the
right of way,” so says the law – and is it strange when the
pedestrian is smartly attired in a costume of the type of design
8666? A striking feature of this dress, its appropriateness for a
combination of materials, will appeal to many women. A bolero jumper
and skirt of serge, gabardine, wool poplin, broadcloth or checks
over an under body of satin, taffeta, faille, Georgette crepe, silk
marquisette or grow de Londres is an excellent choice of materials
for the Autumn. Long sleeves are the most practical for street wear,
but for the house, a few women like shorter ones. The use of the
French lining is indispensable in a dress of this type. The box
plaits of the straight skirt are becoming to most women and are
extremely pretty. The skirt has a slightly raised waistline. |
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A charming
afternoon dress for silks or lingerie materials is shown in designs
8360 and 8361. The surplice waist and the flaring skirt are tucked.
The back of the waist extends over the shoulders, giving a yoke
effect, and to this the fronts are gathered. There is a pretty long
sleeve for those who prefer it to the shorter style illustrated. A
chemisette and body lining are provided. The straight skirt has a
deep tuck above the knee, and the hem corresponds in width to the
tuck. Plaits or gathers can be used at the slightly raised
waistline, or the skirt may be gathered at the regulation waistline.
This model is good style for taffeta, Georgette crepe, radium, crepe
de Chine, cotton voile, organdy, swiss, batiste or handkerchief
linen. |
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A delightful frock in
Georgette crepe and striped silk is shown in designs 8302 and 8293.
The rippling little peplum of the waist is very new. A French lining
is used and the neck may be made high instead of the open style
illustrated. The fuller sleeve has a novel cuff or it may be cut
shorter in a bell style. The peplum can be circular or the straight
gathered type or it can be omitted altogether. The circular skirt is
cut in one or two pieces and has a slightly raised waistline. The
waist and skirt can be made of serge, gabardine, faille, taffeta and
gros de Londres. The skirt is good style in
plaid, stripes, whipcord or shantung and the blouse is pretty in
silk or radium crepe, taffeta, etc. |
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This sports coat,
design 8449, has a raglan sleeve and convertible collar and is shown
here with a three-piece skirt (design 8455). Pockets and a belt are
smart but not obligatory. The correct length for the back of the
coat is 41 or 35 inches. Stripes are used for this coat, and checks
are smart as well as wool Jersey, homespun and taffeta; the skirt of
linen, pique, etc. |
  Delineator
April 1916, pg. 58, 59#8283.8316 A gown for
afternoon (designs 8283 and 8316) made of silk and flowered chiffon
is a thing of beauty and a joy in Springtime. The underbody, made
with long shoulders, may have a high or open neck. The long sleeve
with the fullness concentrated above the cuff can be made shorter. A
French lining is provided. The two-piece skirt has a slightly raised
waistline and there is a soft fullness at the top. The upper part of
the skirt is lengthened by a lower part with a tuck effect at the
joining. The bottom measures about 3 ½ yards. |
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The charming Summer
frock in designs 8430 and 8442 has a novel bolero with either a
straight outline, or a graceful, pointed one. The sleeves may be
short and pointed to match the bolero, or cut full length. Beneath
the surplice underbody is a French lining which permits of a high
neck or the open style. From a slightly raised waistline the skirt
hangs in gathers or plaits. Its two sections joined together in a
deep Spanish flounce effect, and their straight edges make it
possible to use flouncings or borders. Some of the other very
attractive materials are voile, lawn, organdy, lace voile,
marquisette, swiss, linen and batiste, or a combination of
materials. |
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A dress pretty enough
for the most exacting taste is illustrated in designs 8356 and 8394.
The blouse-waist is made in surplice fashion, and can be used with a
chemisette and a body lining, or without them. The capes are smart,
and make a becoming trimming. A ripple peplum, worn outside the
skirt, gives the new hip-widened silhouette. A plainer peplum can be
made to wear underneath the skirt. Either long or shorter sleeves
are pretty and good style. The skirt, which is made with a slightly
raised waistline, has an over-skirt with a straight lower edge. This
over skirt can be plaited or gathered at the top. The underskirt is
in two pieces. Batistes, lawns, voiles, organdy, etc., will make
lovely lingerie frocks. |
   Delineator November 1916, pg. 62, 63 #8741.8746 By the light o’
the moon a frock made by designs 8741 – 8746 shows to the greatest
effect. The waist is very charming made with a moth-like
angel-sleeve drapery, which can be omitted. To neglect the French
lining is most unwise. Quite in keeping with the filmy appearance of
the waist are the over-skirts, used together or separately. The
skirt is 39 inches long in front, and is made with a slightly raised
waistline. The two overskirts have straight lower edges. A
foundation skirt cut in three pieces can be made with a straight
flounce very pretty and graceful, either accordion-plaited or
gathered. |
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To have and to hold
till fashion doth us part is the cry of the woman who sees in
designs 8745 – 8742 one of the smartest and loveliest of the new
evening frocks. The draped waist is made with the becoming surplice
and the drop shoulder effect. It can have two different outlines at
the lower edge. A puff sleeve is very quaint and effective, but it
need not be used. One does not have an option with the French
lining, which is very necessary. The skirt made in two pieces has a
slightly raised waistline. Draperies attached at the sides make a
striking and exceedingly pretty skirt, whether the frill is used or
not. The skirt is cut in a 39-inch length at the front. Satin,
charmeuse, taffeta, with a right side and sleeves of Georgette
crepe, tulle, net, chiffon, chiffon cloth, silk voile and silk
marquisette make beautiful dresses. |
Delineator
April 1916, pg. 58, 59
Delineator
October 1916, pg. 64, 65
Delineator
May 1916, pg. 58,59
Delineator
April 1916, pg. 60, 61
Delineator
June 1916, pg. 48, 49
Delineator
June 1916, pg. 46, 47
Delineator
May 1916, pg. 58, 59
Delineator
November 1916, pg. 62, 63