Designer April 1913, pg. 362, 363, 368
#6739.6778

     When Nos. 6739 and 6778 are combined as they are illustrated above, five and one-quarter yards of soft satin forty-four inches wide, and one and three-eighth yards of lighter satin thirty-six inches wide for the turn-back portion on skirt, cuffs and revers are required for the medium size.
     Ladies’ blouse coat 6739 would be a splendid choice for your dressy tailor-made or as a complement to a gown of moiré, broadcloth, corded silk or heavy soft satin. It presents no difficulties at all and should look as well made as any tailor could do it, even though it is fashioned at home. It is in either a thirty-two or twenty-eight inch length at the center back and has the regulation two-seam coat sleeves or a one-seam three-quarter-length sleeve with slight fullness at the top which may be shrunken out. The arrangement of the three-piece peplum is excellent. At the front of the body the coat is slightly bloused over it, but it is attached without fullness at the back giving long, slender lines. The back gore is tuck-seamed.
     For a woman of medium size, two and seven-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide and five-eighths of a yard of contrasting material twenty inches wide are required for the thirty-two-inch length.
     Design 6739, six sizes, thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     A very unique drapery is shown on the ladies’ skirt 6778. The three-piece tunic with darts or gathers at the top is finished at its lower edge by a graduated band which widens out toward the back where it is caught in soft folds to a tuck-edged panel. The skirt is cut in either two or three pieces, has a medium sweep, a round length measuring about one and seven-eighth yards in the medium size, or it may be cut shorter. The side seams are often left open a short distance on the gown of formal wear. The model closes at the back or front and my have a slightly high or regulation waistline. Charmeuse, crepe de Chine, moiré, voile, silk ratine and broadcloth are suggested for the costume skirt, and the last-named two are appropriate for the dressy tailor-made.
     For a woman of medium size, two and three-quarter yards of material thirty-six inches wide are required to make the skirt cut in two pieces and fashioned entirely of one material.
     Design 6778, in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator August 1913, pg. 22, 23
#6320.6321

     When these designs are combined to make the dress illustrated above, four yards and seven-eighths of linen thirty-six inches wide, one-half yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the collar and cuffs and one yard and seven-eighths of lace banding to finish their edges properly, will be required for the medium size. A tie of contrasting silk put through slits in the blouse adds a smartly individual touch. A sash to match it can be draped in Oriental fashion around the waist if one likes. The arrangement of plaits in the skirt is exceptionally smart.
     What an attractive blouse-waist for a linen dress, design 6320 makes, doesn’t it? And yet when you look closely how very simple is its construction! It is perfectly plain front and back, with one-seam sleeves sewed into regulation armholes, but it has style and charm for all that. The surplice crossing while it is the simplest kind of closing to handle is always a graceful, becoming line, and crossed at this depth makes a pretty open V-shaped neck. With this neck the collar is a delightful trimming, but may be omitted if one wishes. Either of two styles of full-length sleeves or shorter sleeves may be made in the waist, which may also be made high neck by the use of a yoke-facing and standing collar. These are included in the design with the optional body lining. Almost all waists are made now to blouse loosely over the belt, but the possibility of drawing down the fullness is given here in order to please all kinds of women. Stout women, for whom the lines of the waist are very good, may like to do so. The design may be made as a separate waist as well as a part of a one-piece dress and of silk, cotton or wool material.
     For a woman of medium size, one yard and three-eighths of all-over embroidery forty inches wide, with one-half yard of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide for the large collar and flare cuffs, will be required for the waist with shorter sleeves. Two yards and five-eighths of material twenty-seven inches wide will be required for the waist with full-length sleeves.
     Design 6320 may be obtained in nine sizes, from thirty-two to forty-eight inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Plaits may be used with excellent effect in the skirts of jaunty tailored walking suits and of simple tub dresses for which one desires neither a draped nor a perfectly plain skirt. The correctness of their style cannot be questioned, for in Paris they are very frequently noticed and the good shops here are showing them more and more. Their becoming qualities are as far beyond doubt. Whatever other styles prevail, plaits never quite go out because they are always so graceful and becoming. They can be distinguished too, notably smart and individual, when arranged in the original and striking manner that they are in the ladies’ skirt, design 6321. The construction of this is not at all difficult, the plain part being in three gores and lengthened at the right side by a plaited section having a straight lower edge. The plaits follow the grain line, you see, and can be easily laid in and pressed. When they are drawn out the lower edge measures about two yards and three-quarters in medium size. The plain back with slight fullness at the top is the one best liked. Clearing length and a slightly raised waistline are given in the design, as these are most used and best suited to all purposes.
     It may be made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist as a one-piece dress, and may be used for a dress of linen, poplin, rep or gingham, or for a suit of fine serge, poplin, Bedford cord or broadcloth. In checks and stripes it is particularly effective. For one of the suits which are popular now, consisting of a checked skirt and plain coat, no better skirt design could be selected.
     For woman of medium size, three yards of material forty-four inches wide will be required.
     Design 6321 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator September 1913, pg. 22, 23
#6373

     Design 6373 is a model which several of the best houses are showing among their afternoon gowns. It has the kimono sleeves which have returned to favor, the vest which is found in nearly all new dresses, and the side-plaited peplum which is one of the striking new notes this season. The skirt is a simple version of the prevailing draped skirt caught up at the center of the front. If one does not care for the rounded-off lower corners, the seam may be closed to the bottom. The skirt may be cut in one or two pieces. It is in clearing length, has slight fullness at the top of the back and is attached to the waist at a slightly raised waistline. The waist also may be with or without a center-back seam and may be bloused or drawn down, have high or open neck and full-length or shorter sleeves, and be finished at the neck with a collar or frill. A French lining and the peplum may be used or omitted. The lower-edge measurement will be about one yard and three-eighths in a skirt of medium size.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and one-quarter of plain or figured material fifty inches wide will be required for the body and skirt cut on a cross-wise fold without the peplum, one-quarter yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the large collar, three-quarters of a yard of material forty inches wide for a girdle and facing the revers, and five-eighths of a yard of material twenty-seven inches wide for a vest.
     Design 6373 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator August 1913, pg. 22, 23
#6315.6316

     For the dress made from these two designs in medium size, three yards and one-half of figured silk forty-four inches wide, one yard and one-eighth of chiffon forty-five inches wide, one yard and one-eighth of sheer material forty inches wide to line the chiffon side body, one-half of all-over lace eighteen inches wide, two yards and one-quarter of edging to trim the sleeves, one yard and one-half of edging to trim the revers and yoke-facing and two yards of material thirty-six inches wide for a foundation skirt, will be required.
     Design 6315 is an extremely smart and artistic waist which may be made separately or attached to a skirt as one-piece dress, but should be worn always as part of a dress or three-piece suit. Otherwise the particular value of the style which allows the material of the skirt to be brought up onto the waist in bib effect while the upper part is of a lighter or thinner material would be lost. For a Summer dress of printed silk the waist is charming with the side bodies and sleeves of chiffon; when the bib portions are of cotton ratine the side bodies may be of embroidered batiste or figured crepe, and when the waist goes with a suit of fine serge or wool rep, marquisette or silk may be combined with the material. The bib idea is not new for this purpose, but the shape and draping of this have not been seen before. Here also is the new kimono sleeve, wide at the upper part and loose under the arm, the side bodies being in one with the full-length or shorter sleeves. The small revers which may be used or not are another charmingly original idea. The waist is closed at the back and has a French lining which may be in high or French square neck.
      For a woman of medium size, two yards and one-quarter of material forty inches wide, three-eighths of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for yoke-facings, and three-eighths of a yard twenty or more inches wide for revers, will be required for the waist with full-length sleeves.
     Design 6315 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Caution with regard to drapery has been thrown to the winds. The “touch” of it which used to be the demand suffices now only for the simplest semi-tailored frocks and suits; for formal gowns more and more elaborate effects are sought for. This does not mean that the construction must become elaborate, for often the figure may be wrapped in folds with less cutting and seaming than a gored skirt requires, but it means that there must be more folds and deeper ones than at the beginning of the season. The new ideal in drapery is found in design 6316, the front of which is draped in folds which hardly shake out at the side before they are caught up again at the back. One side of the back is lapped over the other with the folds laid in at the waistline, while the other has the drapery lower down. The wrapped lines so obtained are very smart and do not make too bouffant a skirt when the material is properly soft, and the lower edge is very narrow. Here it is only about one yard and one-quarter in the medium size. Ease in walking and additional chic is obtained by opening the front seam, but that may be as one chooses. The trimming-band is also optional. Slightly raised waistline fitted with darts or gathers or a regulation waistline with gathers may be made in the two-piece drapery, whereas the three-piece foundation skirt has only a regulation waistline. The length is clearing. Made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist the design should be developed in the softest silks and satins only.
     For a woman of medium size, two yards and seven-eighths of material forty or forty-four inches wide will be required for the drapery.
     Design 6316 may be obtained in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer March 1913, pg. 290, 291
#6664.6658

     When Nos. 6664 and 6658 are combined as they are illustrated, four and five-eighth yards of mustard-colored corded suiting forty-four inches wide, and five-eighths of a yard of brown satin twenty inches wide for inlaying the collar and for the cuffs, are required for a woman of medium size. The models make a splendid combination for a smart, plain suit.
     The suit for general wear would be very smart with the coat made like 6664. It has a most fashionable air, but is a strictly tailored model. It is slightly fitted and cut away at the front, and slopes to a point at the center back where it measures thirty-eight inches, or has a round outline which gives the shorter twenty-eight-inch length. The two-seam sleeves may have slight fullness in the top, or may join the armhole flatly by shrinking it out. The use of the revers is optional. Serge, cheviot, wool rep, Bedford cord, broadcloth, agaric, linen and cotton crepe-corduroy, one of the newest spring fabrics, are appropriate for making the coat of a general-wear suit.
     A woman of the medium size requires two and three-quarter yards of material forty-four inches wide, and one-quarter of a yard of contrasting material twenty-four inches wide for the flat collar when the coat is made in the thirty-eight-inch length.
     Design 6664, in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Skirts cut in two pieces have proved so well liked that they are one of the most often remarked models in the suit or separate skirt. No. 6658 is the newest design with just the desired width. The possibility of sloping the front edges away at the foot is appreciated, for some women like the added freedom it allows in walking. In the medium size the lower edge measures about one and five-eighth yards. There is a slightly high or a regulation waistline fitted with scant gathers or darts. The skirt may be closed at back or front and finished in round or shorter length. Serge, cheviot, wool rep, whip-cord, broadcloth, homespun, suitings, linen, pique and agaric are the materials suggested.
     A woman of medium size requires tow and five-eighth yards of material thirty-six or more inches wide, Thirty-six inches is the narrowest width that may be successfully used because the model is cut in only two pieces.
     Design 6658, in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator September 1913, pg. 24, 25
#6385.6386

     When these designs are combined as in the illustration above, three yards and three-quarters of charmeuse forty-four inches wide, seven-eighths of a yard of all-over lace forty inches wide, three-eighths of a yard of chiffon forty-five inches wide for the round collar, two yards and seven-eighths of edging and two yards and one-half of material thirty-six inches wide for the foundation skirt, are required for the dress in medium size, only the softest and  most supple silks, like charmeuse, crepe de Chine, crepe meteor or soft moiré or sheer fabrics like chiffon, net or shadow lace, should be used for the skirt if one wishes the drapery to be graceful and the silhouette narrow. Chiffon, marquisette or net or a broche or figured silk may be used for the upper part of the waist. The vest may be of dotted net.
     In design 6385 a suggestion for using the material of the skirt for the lower part of a waist and a lighter or contrasting material for the upper is worked out with great effectiveness. The idea was found in a French model made of a combination of plain and figured silk crepe having a vest of dotted cream net, but can be copied in a great variety of materials. Any material used for the skirt of an afternoon gown , charmeuse, crepe de Chine or poplin, can be used for the lower part, with chiffon, lace or broche for the upper part, with chiffon, lace or broche for the upper. The vest may be embroidered as in the small front view from an adaptation of Butterick transfer 10413. The postilion may be used or not. While the open neck is charming and most fashionable, high neck is a possibility of the French lining; full-length and shorter one-seam sleeves sewed into slightly deep armholes are provided, and the waist may be bloused or drawn down. It may be made separately or attached to a skirt as a one-piece dress.
     For a woman of medium size, one yard and seven-eighths of material forty inches wide, with one-half yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the round collar and cuffs, or two yards of material thirty-six inches wide will be required for the waist with shorter sleeves and without postilion.
     Design 6385 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     It takes considerable artistic power, to say nothing of taste and trained skill, to drape a skirt beautifully without a design to follow. There are also designs and designs, some so complicated that practically the same skill is required to copy as to create them. Design 6386 for a ladies’ draped skirt has beautifully artistic lines, but is extraordinarily simple in construction. Over a three-piece foundation skirt, faced on the right side at the upper part with the material of the drapery, a long piece of drapery is wound about the figure from the waistline at the left side back up to the same point. It falls to the bottom of the foundation skirt, which is in clearing length, except in front where a small facing will be used or the foundation skirt will be cut away. The lower edge of the foundation skirt measures about one yard and one-half in medium size. The waistline of the foundation skirt is regulation, but that of the draped skirt may be either regulation or slightly raised. The design may be made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and one-half of material thirty-six inches wide will be required for the drapery, the facing, and facing the lower part of the front gore, and two yards and one-half of material thirty-six inches wide for the foundation skirt.
     Design 6386 may be obtained in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer April 1913, pg. 362, 363
#6772.6773

     When Nos. 6772 and 6773 are combined as they are illustrated, five yards of flowered voile forty-five inches wide, three yards of lace edging, five-eighths of a yard of batiste thirty-six inches wide and three-quarters of a yard of black satin twenty inches wide are required for the medium size.
     We have borrowed from men’s attire to gain the plaited shirt-bosom effect in the ladies’ blouse 6772. However the result is entirely soft and feminine, especially when the frilling is used at each side of the center front. The model is bloused or drawn down and fastens at the back. A flat collar with optional points finishes the slightly open neck and a chemisette has a standing collar. The one-seam gathered sleeve, sometimes called bishop, is used a great deal this season both in full length and shorter. The other style given is dart-fitted and is still popular, too. It may also be long or cut shorter. Both sleeves join the much used and becoming long shoulder without any fullness. 
     The smart shops are showing this style of blouse made in fine cotton crepe or ratine with the vest and collar of sheer batiste. Cotton voile, marquisette and linen are also made the same way. These materials and charmeuse, crepe de Chine, moiré, chiffon cloth, taffeta and corded silks are used for the costume blouse also.
     For the medium size, one and three-quarter yards of material forty-four inches wide, seven-eighths of a yard of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide, and three-eighths of a yard of net eighteen inches wide, are required.
     Design 6772, in six sizes, thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     If you are making a dress that must be laundered often, you will not care for drapery and yet you sill want some new attractive design. That is the primary reason the ladies’ straight skirt 6773 was designed. It is excellent for batiste, swiss, cotton crepe, printed muslins or cotton marquisette and may also be used for soft silks. It is very easily made, for it is cut in one piece and fitted to the slightly high or regulation waistline with tuck-plaits or gathers. A deep hem is allowed and accords with the two nun tucks. The model conforms to the narrow width now demanded, but has enough breadth to be graceful, for it measures one and three-quarter yards in medium size. Round and shorter are the lengths.
     For the medium size, three and three-quarter yards of material thirty-six or more inches wide are required.
     Design 6773, in six sizes, twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator May 1913, pg. 363, 362        #6150.6151

     One yard and three-eighths of batiste thirty-six inches wide for the outside, with one yard and one-eighth of all-over embroidery forty inches wide, one yard and one-eighth of chiffon forty-five inches wide for the collar, cuffs and plaited section, one yard and three-quarters of flouncing forty-six inches wide for the drapery, one yard and one-half of banding and two yards and three-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide for a foundation skirt, will be required for the medium size.
      Whether it can be referred to the influence of the Balkan war or not, the bolero has certainly come back. There are bolero jackets shown as part of Summer suits, and boleros making the trimming of new gowns and waists. One used as part of a waist is shown in design 6150 which consists of outside portions, a French lining and a bolero. The lining may be in high or open neck; the bolero, which is cut with body in one with the upper part of the one-seam sleeves, may have full-length or shorter sleeves and be with or without the collar and cuffs. The waist is closed at the front and may be made separately or attached to a skirt.
     For a woman of medium size, one yard and one-quarter of material forty inches wide, with one yard and three-quarters of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide for the outside portions and girdle, with be required for the waist with full-length sleeves.
     Design 6150 may be obtained in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     When the drapery in 6151 is rounded up in front as on the colored page, the lower edge is a straight edge, and flouncing and bordered material may be used. With or without a plaited portion inserted at the lower part it offers a delightful solution for the problem of draping borders. If you wish to cut the drapery in even clearing length or just rounded slightly at the front corners you loose the straight edge, but you have a graceful skirt for other soft materials. You can then dispense with the three-piece foundation skirt. This has a regulation waistline while the one or two piece drapery has a slightly raised waistline where it is plaited at the sides and back. It measures at the lower edge about one yard and three-eighths in medium size. The design may be made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards of material thirty-six or more inches wide will be required for the two-piece drapery.
     Design 6151 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer December 1913, pg. 19
#7226

     This gown is indeed lovely for the dance, opera or theater, and by the addition of the guimpe with high or French neck and with or without the full-length or shorter sleeves it resolves itself into an appropriate costume for the afternoon. The side body is cut in one with the short sleeve. The whole is mounted over a girdle lining, and at a slightly high waistline the two-piece skirt is joined to it. The gathered tunic held in or free and an optional straight gathered ruffle fall over it softly. The side seams may be left open a short distance and the skirt finished with a medium sweep, a round length measuring about one and five-eighth yards in medium size, or a shorter length.
      In medium size, two and seven-eighth yards of broche satin thirty or more inches wide, one and three-quarter yards of fifteen-inch flouncing, two and one-quarter yards of forty-inch chiffon, four and three-quarter yards of rosebud trimming, and three-eighths of a yard of thirty-six inch lace are required as shown above.
      Design 7226, in six sizes, thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, fifteen cents.

Delineator October 1913, pg. 23, 28, 34        #6460.6461

     When designs 6460 and 6461 are combined for a woman of medium size, three yards and three-eighths of material forty-four inches wide will be required for the skirt and draped girdle, one yard and one-eighth of material forty-five inches wide for body and tucker, one yard and one-eighth of sheer material forty inches wide to line body, five-eighths of a yard of lace forty inches wide for bib portions and peplum, and two yards of material thirty-six inches wide for foundation skirt.
     Design 6460 shows a lovely evening waist closed at the back with body and sleeve in one, and with a French lining. The bib portion, peplum and draped girdle are the particularly attractive features of this design, but these may be omitted if a plainer waist is desired. It may be made as a separate waist or attached to a skirt as a one-piece dress. Among the materials suitable are moiré, brocade, charmeuse, velvet, crepe de Chine, for the draped girdle; lace or chiffon for the bib and peplum, and tulle, chiffon or lace for the upper part.
     The medium size, and with draped girdle, bib portion and peplum, will require one yard and one-eighth of material forty or more inches wide for the body and tucker, three-quarters of a yard of material thirty-six or more inches wide for the draped girdle, five-eighths of a yard of lace forty inches wide for bib portion and peplum, two yards and seven-eighths of banding, and six yards and three-quarters of rhinestone trimming.
     Design 6460 may be obtained in eight sizes, from thirty-two to forty-six inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

      In design 6461 we have a charming skirt for evening and dressy afternoon gowns, Soft draped effects are noticeable, and are achieved by original yet simple arrangements of pliable materials. Fullness at the top is disposed in gathers or soft folds, but the lower edge remains very narrow and the raised effect in the front is emphasized.
     Design 6461 is a two-piece draped skirt of simple construction, either in clearing length or with a pointed train at the left side of the back. It may be made with a slightly raised or regulation waistline, and as a separate skirt or attached to a waist as a one-piece dress. The three-piece short foundation skirt is in regulation waistline.
     Suitable materials for evening are moiré, charmeuse, crepe meteor, and for afternoon, silk ratine and plush.
     For the medium size with the train will be required three yards and three-eighths of material forty-four inches wide and three-quarters of a yard of material thirty-six inches wide to line train, and two yards of material twenty-seven inches wide for the foundations skirt.
     Design 6461 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.