Delineator September 1911, pg. 160, 168, 169          #4908.4887

     Dress coats are becoming shorter waisted; and many of the abbreviated models are delightful for their vivid colors or soft fringed ruches. Others – like design 4908, made with a slightly-raised waistline – are of the semi-tailored class, and they are usually worn with a skirt or a one or two piece gown of the same material.
     The model is but one-quarter fitting and it may be made twenty-four or twenty-six inches long at the back. Either of two styles of sleeves may be adopted – three-quarter one-seam or full-length two-seam sleeves – and the fullness at the top may be slightly gathered or shrunken out. Quite as frequently the front closing is finished straight instead of being cut away, and often the cuffs are omitted in the development of the design, the full-length sleeves being fitted rather snugly at the wrist, and the three-quarter length left a little loose at the lower edge. Many prefer the collar that is pointed at the back and ornamented with a heavy silk tassel, to the one in sailor outline.
     A rather coarse serge in a rich shade of oak brown was used for one of the most attractive models and soft satin in self-tone was employed for the deep cuffs or the three-quarter sleeves, sailor collar and broad revers, which were further embellished by groups of self-colored, bone buttons. The closing was cut away.
     Wool-back satin was used for another coat built on the same lines. The sailor collar and long revers were faced with white-and-black striped satin, but this was not carried to the very edge; instead, a margin of the plain material was left to view and this outline seemed to make the stripes all the more assertive. The sleeves were long, finished with cuffs, and the straight closing was fastened by rather large buttons. Black or blue moiré might be employed for a dressy afternoon costume, with silk braid and crochet buttons for garnishment. Moreover, one can not use buttons too liberally in the present mode and one sees chaplets of these diminutive buttons – satin, crochet, or round metal ones – strung along the sleeves and panels of the newest gowns.
     Satin cashmere, surah, taffeta, silk serge in stripes or checks or any of the corded silks would be excellent for the design, and cheviot or broadcloth would be equally appropriate.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and three-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide will be required or two yards and five-eighths forty-four inches wide, with one yard of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide for inlaying collar, revers and cuffs.
     Design 4908 may be obtained in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Design 4887 is rather unique among skirt forms in that it embodies all fashion features that have been particularly prominent this season. There is the possibility of using a semi-Empire style as well as a normal waistline. The slightly circular flounce is attached in tunic effect to the four-piece upper part, while the front and back panels are perhaps the most noteworthy features of the design. The latter may be made in either of two lengths and are stitched part way, the lower portion being left loose.
     A trim-looking skirt that had a slightly-raised waistline was made of coarse brown serge, and the full-length panels front and back had much to do with its smart appearance. They were secured to a point where the slightly circular flounce was attached in tuck effect, thence falling free to the lower edge. The model was combined with design 4908, as illustrated on page 161.
     Another skirt made from the same design had an upper part of gray-green satin cashmere, and corded silk of a darker tone was featured in the circular flounce. The waistline was in normal style, and the panels extended to almost one-third of the depth below the simulated tunic. A heavy silk fringe of the same color was used at the lower edge of the panels.
     The illustration on the opposite page gives a delightful arrangement in nattier blue serge. The skirt, which has a normal waistline, shows the abbreviated panels front and back, and its simplicity and graceful contour make it conspicuous among more ornate models. Ball fringe is used at the lower edge of the panels and also on the decorative collar and cuffs of the waist with which it is combined.
     The model may be made in clearing or shorter length and it may be closed at the front or back. The lower edge of the skirt measures two yards and one-quarter.
     For a woman of medium size, four yards and one-quarter of material thirty-six inches wide will be required for the skirt with panels.
     Design 4887 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator February 1911, pg. 108, 109
#4452

     A new semi-princess dress presents a field of thought that is very fruitful. Design No. 4452 shown in one large and a smaller view on this page is a particularly profitable field of thought for the up-to-date woman; for it is not at all likely that there are many matters upon which she is more apt to spend her thoughts than upon a new and fascinating gown. The model in question is a semi-princess dress for ladies, with the popular and becoming slightly-raised waistline. The dress is closed at the front, and may be fashioned in clearing or shorter length. It embodies an over-blouse, with side-body and sleeve in one, a French lining which may be used as a guimpe, and the styles of neck-finishings are particularly smart and attractive, being high or Dutch round. Another feature of the frock that is very pleasing is the full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves; still another pleasing note in the toilet is the panel front and back. These panels are made in one with the front and back gores of a six-gored skirt, and they add very much to the general effectiveness of this unusually modish dress.
     The closing is a feature that will appeal to a great many women, thus obviating the necessity of having assistance in dressing. The buttons form a trimming, and the stitching of the panels is an additional decoration.
     It makes little difference how many other kinds of gowns a woman has in her collection of dresses, she always wishes several princess, or semi-princess frocks. The latter style is apt to be much more becoming to the average woman, so naturally her preference will lean to that type, rather than one that is really snugly fitted. It would require many a day’s journey to find a more charming frock for the fair mondaine than the one presented for her consideration in this illustration.
     There are materials galore from which to fashion this pretty creation. Just exactly the material would depend upon the precise use one wishes to put the dress to. For a good wearing dress, it might be made of serge, cashmere, henrietta, linen, pique, gingham, etc. As a dressy costume, satin would develop effectively.
     The lower edge of the skirt measures about two yards and one-half. In constructing this garment, it will be necessary to have, for a woman of medium size, for dress with shorter sleeves, eight yards and five-eighths of twenty-inch, five yards and three-eighths of twenty-seven-inch, or three yards and three-eighths of forty-four-inch fabric, with one yard of eighteen-inch lace for collar, yoke-facings, and facing sleeves. If model is made with full-length sleeves nine yards and three-eighths of twenty-inch stuff, or three yards and seven-eighths of forty-four-inch material will be needed, with one-half of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide. Three-eighths of a yard of twenty-inch silk for bias bands.
     Design No. 4452 may be had in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator February 1911, pg. 108, 109
#4464

     It is quite a pleasure to meet your friends if they look exactly as you think they should look. But, otherwise, not such a joy. Just so with a frock. In design No. 4434, illustrated in two very pretty views on this page, the delight and interest of the beholder is gained and held. This semi-princess frock for ladies has a world of interest hidden in its plaits, and concealed in its gathers, and covered up in its trimming bands. But, please, listen, and we will unfold to you all of its mysteries. The model represents the acme of artistic taste and the climax of the season’s genius in designing, so one would naturally look for a result a little bit out of the ordinary. A semi-princess must first of all have considerable grace in its make-up, and this one is sufficiently endowed with that blessing to merely note it in passing, as a matter that sets itself out very plainly before the naked eye, bidding for admiration, and gaining its full quota.
     It is made with the slightly-raised waistline, the skirt may be made to clear or in medium sweep. The waist is a French one, with high, French or lower square neck. The last-named neck converts the costume into an evening toilet of distinction. The one-seam sleeves may be made in full or shorter length, and with or without the sleeve cap. The very attractive skirt is constructed with straight lower edge in clearing length, falling free, or gathered into a slightly-circular band, and the box plait in back may be omitted if desired.
     Although the dress is a pronounced success, any may appear to be a problem to the novice, it in reality is extremely simple of construction. Its simplicity adds to its beauty and the model is very becoming.
     Chiffon with satin band, marquisette, net, voile, satin, silk, transparent materials, etc. are suggested. There is an unusual chance given one in this design for the display of originality in combining materials. Only the softest of fabrics will lend themselves to successful construction along the lines of this dress, and the woman who makes her frocks knows well by this time that much depends upon the kinds of materials she selects to develop a model. If she chooses materials at variance with the lines which the design would naturally call for, then her result is not what she expects, though it is what she might expect: for this study of materials is something that the well-dressed woman can not get away from. She wished to be well-dresses: she must give the matter thought. Everything nowadays has been evolved into a science.
     The skirt’s lower edge in clearing length, with plait drawn out, measures about three yards. Of material twenty inches wide, for a woman of medium size, one will require for the construction of this model without the circular band and box plait, twelve yards and one-eighth, or of forty-four-inch fabric five yards and one-half, with one yard and one-eighth of eighteen-inch lace for collar and facing shorter sleeves, and five-eighths of a yard of twenty-inch satin for tucker, and bands to trim.
     Design No. 4464 may be had in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator September 1911, pg. 160, 161           #4882.4883

     The sailor collar has held a more conspicuous place among style features, than any other accessory of dress, and its unprecedented popularity does not wane. It appears altogether incongruous on some of the more complex models, but on simple waists like design 4882 it becomes rather more important. The model consists of an overblouse showing sleeves in the plainest of peasant styles and also a French lining which admits of using either a high or open neck and full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves.
     The underarm gore assists to a better fitting and it is now regarded as most essential in the constructive scheme of these blouses.
     Very fine cheviot in a soft shade of blue showing narrow white stripes, was used for the design, which was combined with No. 4883 in semi-princess effect. The vest piece extending down the front was cut with the stripes running crosswise and the deep sailor collar, girdle and wide trimming bands of the sleeves were made of white cloth. Plain white filet net formed the collar, shallow yoke and full-length facings of the sleeves. Blue buttons and small loops of blue silk were marshaled along the front edges of the waist to a point where the ends of the collar terminated. Any of the soft worsted or heavy washable materials is adaptable to the design. In this style that closing is always made at the front. The center-back seam is essential with narrow or striped materials, but the use of the sailor collar or sleeve-bands is entirely optional. An embroidery design may be reproduced from a Butterick transfer.
     For a woman of medium size, two yards and one-eighth of striped material twenty-seven inches wide will be required for the overblouse with center-back seam; also seven-eighths of contrasting material of the same width for the sailor collar and sleeve-bands, and five-eighths of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the standing collar, yoke facings and for facing of shorter sleeves.
     Design 4882 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     In present-day fashions it is possible to use stripes in every way imaginable, and by this means the simplest forms become strikingly decorative. Some models show side panels or gores with the stripes cut so as to form a chevron and others have the lines running horizontally, as in design 4883, a four-piece skirt which is extremely graceful and not notable for a confusion of lines as are many of the new models. Combined in semi-princess effect with design 4882 it was most attractive, the stripes of the straight flounce (from beneath which the skirt was cut away) were parallel with those in the side gore, but the broad front and back gores had the stripes running vertically. Tuck seams were used and the skirt was made in walking length, coming only to the ankles.
     The model is equally appropriate for plain fabrics and it may be developed without the flounce and with a slightly-raised or normal waistline. This style appears rather more severely tailored and it may be worn very consistently with shirt-waists or embroidered blouses.
     A good-looking navy-blue serge skirt, made without the flounce, had merely a stitched hem, and the side gores had the appearance of inset sections very much like the modified slit skirt, which only simulates an opening at the side. Small buttons having cloth centers and boned rims were marshaled along the seams; this was the only decorative feature that relieved its austere simplicity. Tweed, basket-cloth, homespun, panama and broadcloth are, or course, just as appropriate as the materials already mentioned, and any of the sturdier washable weaves is equally adaptable. The lower edge of the skirt measures about two yards and one-quarter and the lower edge of the flounce, two yards. Either the clearing or shorter length is practicable.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and three eighths of striped material thirty-six inches wide will be required for the skirt with flounce.
     Design 4883 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator July 1911, pg. 22, 23          #4761.4762

     For sports and country wear there is really no garment that hints at so much comfort as the middy blouse. It is altogether a negligee waist – but then one is not seeking perishable or overwrought confections for outing purposes. 
    Design 4761 gives several suggestions for a blouse built in sailor fashion. One new feature is the curved, deep yoke cut in one with full-length or shorter sleeves. Long sleeves are undoubtedly more consistent with a sailor blouse worn in the conventional way, that is, closed in front; and the sleeves finished just at the elbow are quite in keeping with the more indifferent style that is slipped over the head and worn unbelted over the skirt. In the latter instance, one naturally omits the shield and standing collar if one would be absolutely at ease. There are many ways of ornamenting blouses of this order, but cords, braids or other marine emblems play and important part of the deep collar and other fixings. It is not necessary to have a center-back seam in the yoke – the absence or presence of seams at this point always depends on the width of the material.
     A sturdy weave lends itself most successfully to the requirements of the design, and linen, cotton duck, poplin, repp, galatea or serge may be regarded as the most available, although the preference should perhaps be given to a loosely-woven linen or cotton duck. White and blue, especially the dark tone, is a combination that is inseparable from waists of this order; still, one is not really limited to just these two colors. Brown and white may be combined very effectively or dark blue and crimson – in fact any of the various college colors are consistent with this type of sporting blouse. A Butterick transfer may be used to reproduce the little emblems on the shield and collar and they may be worked with silk flosses or cotton.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and one-quarter of material thirty-six inches wide will be necessary to make the blouse having a center seam at front and back of yoke and to be slipped over the head; or two yards and three-quarters of plain material forty-four inches wide, if the blouse (to be slipped over the head) has the yoke pieces cut on a crosswise fold, with five-eighths of a yard of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide for collar facing and cuffs, and two yards and three-eighths of braid – for one row.
     Design 4761 may be obtained in five sizes, from thirty-two to forty inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Separate linen or pique skirts are an important factor in the well-equipped mid-summer wardrobe. Design 4762 is an admirable illustration of what is most desirable in the plainer styles. This skirt-form in clearing or shorter length is made of four pieces with a regular or slightly-elevated waistline. A feature that makes the model particularly noteworthy and practical for a walking costume is the extra width attained by a plait on either side of the front and back panels. The design combines well with a sailor blouse or tailored shirt-waist or it may also be worn with a decorated waist of the same fabric, to complete a simple semi-princess dress.
     Gingham, poplin or pongee is well adapted to these plain models, and linen or pique is almost indispensable for sporting wear in the warm weather or even for afternoon walking suits. A woman always looks well gowned in a tailored linen skirt with a trim-fitting blouse or coat. For interseason wear, serge, cheviot, homespun or tweed will be in great favor. The one-tone and mixed braids that have been in evidence all the season become as effective on plain gingham or chambray as they do on linen or poplin, while the heavier materials are considerably improved by any of the various silk braids. They come in many widths and designs, and very often several rows will be used without even a line of the material showing between; the effect is much the same when only one wide band is applied. For ordinary wear, stitching is perhaps the better finish. The lower edge of the skirt measures two yards and five-eighths with the plaits drawn out.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and seven-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide and without distinct up or down, will be required, with four yards and one-quarter of braid.
     Design 4762 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

   Delineator May 1911, pg. 378, 379
     #4638.4639

     While there is a great deal of extravagance in the gowning of the present day, a woman may nevertheless be correctly dressed for any occasion even with a limited number of costumes. Everything depends on her judgment and taste. Design 4638 is suggestive for a charmingly effective waist that may be developed with comparative ease by an amateur dressmaker. The side body and upper part of the sleeve is cut in one. There is a French lining which may be worn with a stock, a French round or still lower décolletage and sleeves which may be made full length or in shorter style. This is a design that may be considered very appropriate for dressy afternoon or informal evening wear; and combined with a skirt such as design 4639, it assists in achieving an artistic semi-princess costume.
     For a woman of medium size, the waist with shorter sleeves will require seven-eighths of a yard of material forty-five inches wide for over-sleeves, tucker portions and cuffs, with two yards and seven-eighths of satin twenty inches wide for the surplice fronts and side portions.
     Design 4638 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents. 

     A graceful skirt in medium sweep or clearing length is described in design 4639. The model displays the newest outline in tunic styles. The tunic is attached to a panel at the back and the lower edge is perfectly straight. The waistline may be made high or in normal style. The high-waisted effect is attractive for dressy wear.
     A five-gored foundation skirt maintains the regular waistline, in order to dispose of any thickness of material about this part of the design. If the habit style is not desirable, an inverted plait may be introduced at the back. The graduated flounce has a straight lower edge in clearing length. If one prefers, the lower edge may be secured to the foundation skirt. Combined with design 4638, it forms an attractive semi-princess gown. The lower edge of the gores in clearing length and habit back measures two yards.
     For a woman of medium size, the skirt with band will require seven-eighths of a yard of material forty-five inches wide for the tunic, with eight yards and one-quarter of satin twenty inches wide for the flounce, panel back and band.
     Design 4639 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

     For many reasons, the making of dainty summer frocks is always a pleasant task since the fabrics themselves are so attractive that they require but little trimming, a fact that simplifies the construction to a large degree. The prevalence of flouncing and bordered goods in this season’s frocks is a fortunate fashion for the woman who has but little time to spend on the construction of her dresses, as the finished edges of both of these materials make the task of hemming unnecessary and are a great saving of labor.
     The dress No. 5416, owing to its style and construction, is well adapted for either of these materials, but is not in any sense confined to their use as it may be used with equal propriety for foulard, pongee, satin messaline, lawn batiste, dotted swiss, gingham, chambray, cotton voile and similar materials on this order.
     The model shows the fashionable raised waistline that still continues to be a prominent feature of the new designs, and which has proved universally becoming. As the frock is suitable for both formal and informal wear, the skirt has been made with a sweep, although the round length is also possible. A lining is given that may be made with standing collar, or in the French outline, so fashionable at the present time, and which shows no indications of waning. The undersleeves which are attached to the lining are of the close-fitting one-seam variety, with perforations for the cutting in the shorter length that many women prefer. The blouse is cut with the side body and sleeve in one and can be made to reach just above or below the elbow, as desired.
     The seven-gored foundation skirt offers the choice of inverted plait or habit back. The three-piece tunic can be fitted to the figure by means of darts at the top, or if this fashion is not desired, the fullness may be evenly distributed by slight gathers. The panel front of the tunic is extended to form the center front of the waist, giving a long and becoming line.
     Practical fabrics that can be utilized for the making of this design are in twenty-seven-inch, thirty-six-inch and forty-four-inch. A woman of medium size will require for the dress, if made of one material, six and three-quarter yards of twenty-seven-inch, or four and three-eighth yards of material forty-four inches wide. The foundation gores will require five and three-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch or four and one quarter yards of thirty-six-inch.
     Design 5416, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator July 1911, pg. 20, 21       #4687.4788

     Fichus lend a charm that is irresistible. A very attractive model, precisely like the waist illustrated in design 4787, is made of bordered net mounted over very soft silk of a delicately contrasting color. The overblouse in peasant style is made of plain net, but the straight edge of the fichu displays a floral border. The waist combines charmingly with design 4788, in semi-princess style. The fichu may be eliminated and the French lining may be made with any of four neck outlines and full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves. Any pliant material is available for this design.
     For a woman of medium size, one yard and three-quarters of bordered material forty-five inches wide will be necessary, with three-eighths of a yard of net forty-two inches wide for yoke-facings and facing of shorter sleeves, and one-half yard of lace banding five and one-half inches wide for the tucker.
     Design 4787 may be obtained in five sizes, from thirty-two to forty inches bust measure, price fifteen cents. 

     A tunic skirt whose outline is especially graceful is given in design 4788. The model, which may be made in medium sweep or clearing length, has a one-piece tunic (with straight lower edge) and either a high or normal waistline. A five-gored skirt having a regular waistline forms the foundation over which the tunic is mounted; and this underskirt may be made with an inverted plait or a habit back and a flat circular flounce. Flouncing or any pliant bordered material is appropriate, and mull or batiste with all-over embroidery makes a very dainty frock. The lower edge of the skirt in clearing length and with habit back measures two yards and one-quarter.
     For a woman of medium size, two yards of bordered material forty-five inches wide will be required for the tunic, with one yard and three-eighths of satin thirty-six inches wide for the flounce in clearing length and one yard and three-quarters of material thirty-six inches wide for the gores, cut from beneath the flounce.
     Design 4788 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator October 1911, pg. 233, 241
# 4951.4952

     Design 4951 shows a waist which has newness, distinction and beauty. A combination of several things makes it arrestingly smart; first, the outline of the fichu ending in back at the waistline or in a pointed postilion effect, which is a striking feature of many new models. The tuck down the center of the body part is a second feature, suggestion the fashionable center-line trimming. Thirdly, there is the sleeve, one of the newest put forth, called the crinoline sleeve, though there is no crinoline in it, the puff being held out by a strip of featherbone. The upper part is in one with the body, which closes in back. A French lining and a guimpe with high, French round or square neck and with or without the one-seam sleeve, which will transform the waist from an evening to an afternoon affair, are a part of the design.
     Diaphanous materials, chiffon, marquisette or mull, are appropriate to it, also messaline, taffeta or crepe de Chine. Attractive bordered materials may be used for the bertha, as it has a straight edge. A harmonious costume is obtained by combining this design with skirt 4952, in semi-princess effect.
     For a woman of medium size two yards and one-eighth of material thirty-six or more inches wide will be required for the waist, and three yards and seven-eighths of bordered material ten inches wide for the lower puff section and fichu with postilion.
     Design 4951 may be obtained in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents. 

     Design 4952 is a lovely tunic skirt for house and evening wear, which many a woman who is contemplating having a new reception, dinner or party gown will declare to be just what she has been looking for. It would indeed be hard to find one with a more charming effect and more fashionable features. The two-piece tunic, in either of two outlines in front and with a pretty round in back, is exceptionally well designed, so that gathered into the high waistline, as the best dressmakers like to do with soft fabrics, it falls gracefully over the underskirt in a way not to impair the narrow silhouette. The underskirt, which in clearing length is about two yards and one-eighth around the lower edge, or can have a medium sweep, is in three of four pieces, and has a tuck down the middle of the front, forming the new center-line trimming. This model which can be made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist in semi-princess style, is designed for sheer materials, chiffon, marquisette or silk mull, to be worn over soft silks and satins, or over a foundation skirt of the same. Wide fringe of silk in a harmonizing color or of gold or sparkling beads makes a tunic doubly attractive, or an embroidery design about the edge is a dainty way of trimming one. A design may be obtained in a Butterick transfer pattern.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and five-eighths of silk thirty-six inches wide for the foundation front and back pieces of the three-piece skirt, four yards and one-quarter of chiffon forty-five inches wide for the tunic, front and back pieces of the three or four piece skirt, or two yards of chiffon forty-five inches wide for the tunic will be required.
     Design 4952 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator December 1911, pg. 446, 447
#5046.5047

     Ladies’ waist 5046 is an unusual and distinctive design which may be used for either afternoon or evening and can be made separately or attached to a skirt as part of a semi-princess dress. Its most marked feature is the drapery of the lower part, a style that is not only graceful and flattering to the figure, but characteristic of some of the most effective of the new dressy waists.
     Soft materials, such as messaline, crepe de Chine, chiffon taffeta or silk voile are necessitated by it, and these would probably be combined with chiffon, marquisette or veiling on the upper part of the waist which is in one with the oversleeve. In that case the tucker in one with the undersleeve would be used, made of all-over lace which would show unveiled in front and through the transparent back, sides and sleeves. The waist can be made with high, French round or lower neck, and with full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves, and has a French lining. It may be trimmed in various ways, simply by the use of contrasting materials; for instance, the lower part like the skirt to which it is attached and the upper of a different tone, surface or figure, or with a design for embroidery or beads, which may be reproduced from a Butterick transfer, or with different sizes of buttons. New gowns are literally weighted with glittering beads and glowing embroideries, and you who are interested in doing that kind of work yourselves can gain some splendid effects. Embroidered, jeweled and cut metal buttons are placed in rows down the front of waists and skirts, most often when the closing is actually at the back. If you are unable to buy those which match your color scheme, an article in the November Delineator tells how they may be made of beading, braiding and embroidery. Fringe is used on the sleeves even when nowhere else on the waist, though it is generally found on the skirt in that case, as it is shown on the dress on the opposite page.
     For a woman of medium size, five-eighths of a yard of chiffon forty-five inches wide for the upper part of the body, three-quarters of a yard of material twenty-seven inches wide for the lower portions, three-quarters of a yard of net forty-two inches wide for the tucker, one-half yard of material twenty-seven or more inches wide for the yoke-facings and one yard and one-half for lace banding will be required for the waist, with the upper part of the body of transparent material.
     Design 5046 may be obtained in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.  

     In design 5047 is shown a ladies’ skirt with the beauty of simple, graceful lines and the smartness of a cut which gives it the desired straight silhouette combined with soft fullness at the top. The construction of the skirt is so simple that it is beautiful from a practical as well as from an artistic standpoint, for it is in one piece and has a straight lower edge. This latter makes it an ideal design for the bordered materials which are being shown in a profusion of lovely patterns, some of them in such costly materials that the acceptance of the style is proved fact. They can also be obtained, however, in comparatively inexpensive soft silks, crepe de Chine, silk mull, cotton voile, chiffon and marquisette, of which most attractive evening and afternoon dresses can be made which will not require much trimming.
     Soft striped satins would also be pretty for this skirt. It measures about two yards at the lower edge in medium size and at a regulation or raised waistline has the fullness gathered at the sides, as most soft fabrics are treated now, or plaited in raised waistline for the woman who prefers a flat smoothness about the hips. In back it is box-plaited, giving the effect of that popular panel which is still appearing on the new models. Clearing or shorter length and a front or back closing are given. Using the back closing one can combine it appropriately with waist 5046, as a dressy semi-princess gown and continue down the center line of the skirt the line of buttons which trims the waist in one view. Fringe, which will be one of the most generally used trimmings this Winter, is frequently placed around the lower edge of skirts with the material cut away from beneath. For the butterfly banding to be reproduced in beads or French knots shown on the small cut a Butterick transfer may be obtained.
     For a woman of medium size, three yards and seven-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide, or two yards and one-eighth of bordered material forty-six inches wide will be required and two yards and one-eighth of fringe.
     Design 5047 may be obtained in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.