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   New
Idea October 1907, pg. 43
4589 – Ladies’
Two-Piece Costume
The Eton model is conspicuous again among the autumn
showings for outdoor costumes. The tapering pleat from the shoulder
to the lower edge of the accompanying design contributes slenderness
to the waist and makes a jacket suited to any figure. It may have
the full three-quarter sleeve poplar for dressy wear, or the long
model better suited to a utility garment. The coat is simply shaped.
The tapering pleats are a part of the fronts and back and conceal
the joining of these portions with the side-fronts and side-back.
The nine-gored skirt is in round length with an inverted pleat at
the back and measures 4 1/2 yards at the hem in the medium size.
Alice-blue canvas cloth was used for the costume as shown here and
black Hercules braid and a collar-facing of black Ottoman silk
formed the simple decoration. Tiny loops of narrow braid extending a
little way from the wider trimming on the shoulders, fronts and
cuffs gave an additional smart touch. The design offers great
latitude in the choice of material and decoration. Broadcloth,
Panama, brilliantine, checked or striped wool mixtures, novelty
suiting, cheviot, serge and tweed are a few suitable fabrics which
may be trimmed with galloons, braids in graduated widths or stitched
bands of the material or silk. The pattern is cut in five sizes,
from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. 6 1/2 yards of 42-icnh goods or 5
/12 yards of 54-inch fabrics are necessary for the two-piece suit in
the medium size; 3/8 yard or 21-inch silk is essential for the
collar-facing and 1 piece of braid for the trimming. |
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    New
Idea September 1907, pg. 41
4558 – Ladies’ Coat
The modish model shown here was made up with excellent
results in gray whipcord. The seamless back extends to the armhole,
where it is stitched in a deep tuck which tapers to the waistline
and contributes width to the shoulders and slimness to the waist.
The fronts, which are similarly tucked, lap and close invisibly, a
shawl collar which may be faced with silk or velvet finishing the
neck. The fullness at the top of the two-piece sleeve may be
adjusted by stitched tucks or gathers, a shaped reversed cuff
affording the finish at the hand. The model, which may be cut off at
the hip, provides also for a short three-quarter length which gives
height to a short figure. Chiffon broadcloth, canvas-cloth,
herring-bone cheviot, serge, mohair and suitings, all make up
satisfactorily after this design. The pattern is cut in six sizes,
from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. The medium size requires 4 yards
of 42-inch material, or 3 1/4 yards of 54-inch goods.
(information below from August pg. 48)
4539 – Ladies’ Side-Pleated Skirt
The skirt illustrated here is cut in one piece, the
side pleats regulating the fullness. It fits smoothly over the hips,
a belt the required size adjusting it at the waistline. The bottom
is finished with a hem, and because of its straight lower edge
flouncings and bordered materials are admirably adapted for
developing the model. It measures about 4 1/2 yards at the lower
edge with the pleats drawn out. A dainty skirt for summer wear is of
pale blue handkerchief linen with a deep border of embroidery, and
is worn with a waist of the same material showing elaborate
embroidery to correspond. Materials suggested for making are
batiste, Swiss, marquisette, veiling, linen, chambray or mohair. A
panel of handwork in either eyelet or Hardaugen embroidery may be
applied on the front of this skirt, which should be worn with a
waist of the same material decorated in a similar manner. The
pattern is cut in four sizes, from 22 to 28 inches waist measure.
The medium size requires 6 1/2 yards of 36-inch, or 5 1/2 yards of
44-icnh material, or, if flouncing is used, 4 5/8 yards 45 inches
wide will be required. |
   
Designer April 1907, pg. 634, 635, 640
Jacket 2317, from
thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price 15 cents, is
developed in pastel-red prunella. It is again shown on page 630. The
skirt is 2314, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure,
price 15 cents. It is made of prunella.
2317 – Ladies’ Eton Jacket
Alice-blue broadcloth combined with
miroir velvet and further decorated with appliqué developed
this very stylish jacket.
The model is a loose Eton variety, a perfect fit being
insured by making the dart tucks at the shoulders. The vest sections
are a pleasing feature of this garment as well as the gracefully
shaped cape which need not, however, be adopted unless becoming or
desirable. The neck is finished with a rolling collar and the sleeve
may be in either full or shorter length as preferred. The applied
cuff is a stylish and very becoming adjunct.
Plain cloth, serge, cheviot, piqué, linen, duck,
cotton cheviot and poplar cloth will develop this model effectively,
braid, embroidered and lace banding or machine stitching forming the
trimming for the capes and the front.
Ladies’ jacket 2317 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches
bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch size requires 2 5/8 yards
of material 44 inches wide, or 2 yards 54 inches, with 7/8 yard of
22-inch silk and 3 7/8 yards of appliqué.
2314 – Ladies’ Eight-Gored Skirt in Short Round,
Instep or Shorter Length
The plaited skirt continues as popular as ever, and the
model here presented is an especially stylish and attractive one,
the arrangement of the material giving the effect of box plaits
alternating with side plaits. The plaits are stitched down to deep
yoke depth only expanding gracefully at the foot, where the skirt
may be finished in short round, instep or shorter length. The skirt
as picture is developed in white linen. Other materials insuring
satisfactory results are plain cloth, serge, cheviot, cashmere,
pique, duck, chambray or madras. Braid, lace, embroidery or machine
stitching may form the trimming, as desired.
Ladies’’ skirt 2314 is in 6 sizes, from 22 to 32 inches
waist measure, corresponding to 39 to 53 inches hip, price 15 cents.
The 24-inch waist size requires, for short round length, 10 5/8
yards of material 22 inches wide, 8 1/8 yards 44 inches, or 5 yards
54 inches. Width at lower edge, 5 1/2 yards. For shortest length, 9
7/8 yards 22 inches, or 6 1/2 yards 44, or 4 5/8 yards 54. |
   
 
McCall’s August 1907, pg. 1037, 1038
Nos. 1608 – 1598. –
Lavender and white striped wash silk was used to make the gown shown
at the right of the colored plate. This charming model is simple and
easy to make and yet at the same time smart enough for any summer
entertainment. The front and Mikado sleeve-caps are cut in one piece
and the fullness is shirred on the shoulders at each side to short
yoke depth. The yoke is of Renaissance lace and the trimming is of
lavender satin ribbon laid over a broader band of white satin
ribbon. The sleeves are short and are trimmed with two ruffles of
lace and completed by a band of ribbon. The closing is formed in the
center-back. Satin ribbon is used for the belt. If desired, the neck
can be cut out in the round Dutch style and the front of the waist
faced with lace in vest effect beneath which the required quantity
of material will be found.
The skirt is cut with seven gores and has a straight
gathered flounce put on with a heading and trimmed with two rows of
the ribbon.
Organdie, with a white ground patterned over with pink
flowers and green leaves, is also suggested for this design. It
could be trimmed with lace insertion, edged with a row of baby black
velvet ribbon, and put on the dress like the lavender ribbon, shown
in the colored plate. The yoke could be of allover lace and ruffles
of lace could trim the sleeves. The belt could be of black velvet
ribbon.
McCall Pattern No. 1608 (All Seams Allowed)
Cut in 6 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42 inches bust
measure.
No. 1608. – Ladies’ Waist, requires for 36 size,
5 1/2 yards material 22 inches wide, 5 yards 27 inches wide, 3 3/8
yards 36 inches wide; or 2 5/8 yards 44 inches wide. Price, 15
cents.
McCall Pattern No. 1598 (All Seams Allowed)
Cut in 5 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 inches waist
measure.
No. 1598 – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt, requires
for 26 size, for skirt, with nap, or one way, 9 yards material 22
inches wide, 9 yards 27 inches wide, 6 1/2 yards 36 inches wide, or
4 3/4 yards 44 inches wide; for 26 size, without nap, or up and
down, 8 yards material 22 inches wide, 7 1/2 yards 27 inches wide, 4
3/4 yards 36 inches wide, or 4 yards 44 inches wide. Extra material
for flounce, 5 1/2 yards 22 inches wide, 4 1/2 yards 27 inches wide,
3 3/4 yards 36 inches wide, or 3 yards 44 inches wide. Width of
skirt around bottom, 5 yards. Price, 15 cents. |
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 Delineator
January 1907
Back view and information not available. |
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   Delineator
April 1907, pg. 580
1027. Ladies’ Tucked
Blouse-Jacket, with or without the peplum
In the modish blouse-jacket here shown, the tucks turn
toward the armholes, and the shape of the fronts is such that they
slope toward the center at the waistline. The straight front edges
lap at the closing and give an open neck in V-outline which
sometimes has the addition of a flat collar facing. Tucks in the
back are also brought closer together at the lower edge under a
fancy belt, or a peplum in hip length may be plaited below each
group of tucks in the blouse, and an inverted box plait is arranged
at each side seam and at the center of the back. The puffed upper
part of the sleeves is completed with a band when in short length,
and the lining is faced with the jacket material to wrist depth, if
full length is desired. Deep sleeve-cap sections are open to the
shoulders and shaped bands are applied along the lower edges which
are rounded. A body lining is provided.
Blouse-Jacket 1027 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches
bust measure. For the medium size, it requires for outside of jacket
5 3/8 yards of material 27 inches wide, with 1 1/8 yard of silk 20
inches wide for pipings and to inlay collar facing, etc., for
lining, 3 3/8 yards 20 inches wide. Price, 15 cents. |
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   Delineator
March 1907, pg. 376
9897. Ladies’ Tucked
Shirt-Waist Costume, in clearing or shorter length: consisting of a
shirt-waist, with standing or fancy collar; and a nine-gored skirt.
The waist of this costume is tucked both at the front
and back. A standing collar affords neck completion, and a flat
fancy collar with tab ends is also included. Deep or shallower cuffs
finish the long sleeves and wide cuffs, open on the outside, turn
back over the shorter sleeves.
The skirt has nine gores, and each seam is concealed by
a plait on the back edge of each gore. The lower edge measures about
five yards and one-half in the middle sizes, and either clearing or
shorter length may be adopted. Linens, mercerized fabrics, silk,
cotton and soft woolen goods are adaptable.
Costume 9897 is in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it calls for 14 5/8 yards of material
27 inches wide, or 12 yards 36 inches wide, or 8 1/8 yards 44 inches
wide. Price, 15 cents. |
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   Delineator
March 1907, pg. 380
9903. Ladies’
Two-Piece Costume, in sweep or clearing length: consisting of a
tucked Blouse-Eton, with three-quarter length sleeves; and a
four-piece skirt.
This modish costume shows an over-blouse supported by a
plain blouse, the former being shaped by dart-tucks that cross the
shoulders, and the usual seams. The tab extensions in the back, at
each side and at the closing edges in front are caught to the belt,
but may be cut off, and the lower edge of the blouse is curved
upward between them. All the edges may be outlined with a narrow
velvet fold, appliqué or braid. Both the under-sleeve and
over-sleeve are sewed into the armhole of the under-blouse, and the
seam is hidden by the long shoulders of the over-blouse. The
three-quarter length under-sleeve is plain; and the over-sleeve
consists of a full upper part, dart-tucked at each side, and a plain
under part in one with the band that encircles and finishes the
lower edge. The plaits in the four-piece skirt form an inverted box
plait at each side seam, and a group in the front and back facing
the center are laid close together at the top where they are
stitched. They are pressed to the lower edge, which attains a
measurement of about five yards and one-fourth in the medium sizes.
Provision is made for sweep or clearing length. Folds with mitered
joinings may trim the skirt if desired.
Costume 9903 is in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it requires 12 1/4 yards of material
27 inches wide, with 2 3/4 yards of silk 20 inches wide, for
full-fronts, full-back and under-sleeves. Price, 15 cents. |
   
Delineator November 1907, pg. 660
1562. Ladies’ Waist,
with over-blouse
In the waist here illustrated, the over-blouse and
sleeves are in one, seamed under the arms and at the center of the
back; the full front is attached to the shallow circular yoke, and
is dart-fitted both waist and over-blouse closing in the back. The
full sleeves are gathered into bands at the elbow, unless deep cuffs
are used to extend them to wrist depth. This excellent design can be
made very attractive in a heavy lace for the over-blouse, with the
full front and under sleeves of soft mousseline; linen, silk or
cloth can also be adapted with bands of inserted lace, embroidery or
braid.
Waist 1562 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it requires 2 1/8 yards of rajah 27
inches wide, or 2 7/8 yards of lace 18 inches wide, with 2 1/8 yards
of plain silk for center front and full sleeves; or one material it
needs 4 1/8 yards 20 inches wide, or 3 5/8 yards 27 inches wide, or
2 1/8 yards 44 inches wide, each with 7/8 yard of lace and 3/4 yard
of silk. Price, 15 cents.
1523. Ladies’ One or Two Piece Skirt
There is a certain grace imparted by a circular
skirt that is very pleasing. The design here illustrated may have
only a center-back seam, where the placket is made, or, if made in
two-piece style, a seam will also occur at the center of the front.
Dart-tucks may be used if a fitted effect is desired over the hips;
otherwise, the fullness is disposed in gathers. With the darts an
inverted box plait at the back is used. The skirt in round length
measures about four yards and three-fourths at the lower edge in the
medium size.
Skirt 1523 is in 8 sizes, from 20 to 34 inches waist
measure. For 24 inches waist, the one-piece skirt with sweep
requires 7 3/4 yards 20 inches wide; in round length, 3 1/2 yards 50
inches wide. The two-piece skirt with sweep will need 7 1/8 yards 27
inches wide; in round length, 4 1/8 yards 44 inches wide. Price, 15
cents. |
   
 
Designer September 1907, pg. 394
Ladies’ Toilette.
2643 – Ladies’ Cord-Shirred Waist
The center one in this group of dainty blouses is
another model especially to be recommended for rather slender
figures, for whom shirrings and tucks are both graceful and
desirable. The back view with high neck and long sleeves and
developed in peau de cygne with all-over
Irish crochet lace will make a dainty theater blouse.
Ladies’ waist 2643 is in 5 sizes, from 32 to 40 inches
bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch size requires 4 5/8 yards
of material 22 inches wide, 2 7/8 yards 36 inches or 2 1/2 yards 44
inches, with 1/2 yard of 18 inch all-over lace.
2636 – Ladies’ Shirred Skirt, In Short Sweep or
Round Length (Consisting of Two Circular Sections Joined Together
and Lengthened by a Straight Flounce)
The skirt here illustrated is an especially dainty
design for dressy wear and will develop most effectively in
light-weight fabrics, such as mull, crepe de Chine, mousseline, and
other diaphanous fabrics, also in albatross, wool batiste, and China
silk.
The model is most effective, the graduated depth of the
two circular skirt sections and of the flounce forming a pleasing
and novel arrangement.
Ladies’ skirt 2636 is in 6 sizes, from 22 to 32 inches
waist, corresponding to 39 to 53 inches hip measure, price 15 cents.
The 24-inch waist size requires 11 3/8 yards of material 22 inches
wide; 7 1/2 yards 36 inches, or 6 1/2 yards 44 inches, with 5 3/8
yards of braid. Lower edge 5 1/4 yards. |
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