   
  
McCall’s October 1906, pg. 98
No. 1060. – Ladies’
Jacket (with Two Styles of Collars, Sleeves Pleated or Gathered
at the Top, and with or without the Cuffs and Pocket Laps), requires
for medium size, 5 1/2 yds. Material 27 ins. wide, 4 1/8 yds. 36
ins. wide, 3 1/8 yds. 44 ins. wide, or 2 5/8 yds. 54 ins. wide.
Lining required, 5 1/2 yds. 22 ins. wide, or 3 1/2 yds. 36 ins.
wide; velvet represented, 3/4 yd.; 6 large and 6 small buttons.
Price, 15 cents.
The skirt is in three-piece style and has a front gore
and yoke in one piece. It is trimmed with straps of the material and
buttons to match the coat. The style of this costume is a very
pretty model indeed for the fashionable mannish mixtures, tweeds,
checks and invisible plaids.
No. 1072. – Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt (in Sweep
Length, perforated for Round or Short-Round Length, the Yoke and
Front Gore in One Piece, with or without the Scalloped Extensions
and Strap Trimming), requires for medium size, for skirt, 7 3/4 yds.
material 27 ins. wide, 6 1/2 yds. 36 ins. wide, 5 1/2 yds. 44 ins.
wide, or 4 1/2 yds. 54 ins. wide. For straps, 2 yds. material 27
ins. wide, 1 1/2 yds. 36 ins. wide, 1 yd. 44 ins. wide, or 1 yd. 54
ins. wide. 12 buttons. Length of skirt in front, 42 ins.; width
around bottom, 5 yds. Price, 15 cents. |
   
 
Delineator September 1906, pg. 322, 334
9482 – Ladies’
Jacket, in Hip or Eton Length, with Full-Length or Shorter
Sleeves, with or without the Fancy Collar-Facing or Trimming Bands.
A smart example of the fashionable short jacket is here
illustrated in broadcloth with velvet, and also in venetian, each
being decorated with fancy braid. Side-front and side-back seams
assist in shaping the garment, and the extra fullness at the seams
is laid in inverted plaits and creased to the lower edge whether in
hip or Eton length. Provision is made for upright bands to cross the
shoulders, their pointed ends terminating above the inverted
fullness; these, however, are only ornamental and may be omitted as
well as the band encircling the body. The fancy collar-facing of the
same or contrasting material adds a dressy touch but its use is
optional. Turn-back cuffs finish the long sleeve when a plain wrist
is not desired, and are also used with shorter sleeves. Gathers
adjust them into the armholes unless plaits are preferred, in which
case four are laid at the top turning toward each seam.
Covert, English suiting, Scotch mixtures, chiffon
panama, tropical suiting pebble cheviot and the new fall novelties
are suitable.
Jacket 9482 is in 5 sizes, from 32 to 40 inches bust
measure. For the medium size it calls for 1 3/4 yard of cloth 54
inches wide, with 7/8 yard of velvet 20 inches wide, or of one
material, 3 yards 44 inches wide. Price, 15 cents.
9465 – Ladies’ Tucked Five-Piece Skirt, in
Medium Sweep, Round or Short Round Length, with or without the Band
Trimming.
English Suiting was used in one illustration of this
stylish skirt, which is also shown in chiffon broadcloth and fancy
panama. Five gores are used in the construction, and a smooth
adjustment is obtained by means of graduated tucks that are taken up
in the upper part and stitched to any yoke depth desired for
individual becomingness. An inverted box-plait is arranged at the
back. In the medium sweep and round length, the fullness is usually
allowed to fall free below the tucks, while in the short round
length it may be creased in flat plaits to the lower edge where the
skirt attains a measurement of about five yards and one-fourth in
the medium sizes. Bands with the ends turning upward in points at
the centre of the front and at each side form a pleasing foot
trimming.
Invisible check and fancy mohair, cover, tropical and
Scotch suiting, whipcord, chiffon voile, French veiling, eolienne,
French poplin, chiffon panama, English worsted, tweed, venetian,
prunella, habit cloth, broché taffeta,
pongee, burlingham, etc., are suggested.
Skirt 9465 is in 8 sizes, from 20 to 34 inches waist
measure. For 24 inches waist, of material without nap or distinct up
or down, it calls for 6 7/8 yards 27 inches wide; with nap, 7 7/8
yards. Price, 15 cents. |
   
New Idea May 1906, pg. 63
4077 – Ladies’
Two-Piece Costume.
Spring models show the popularity of the princess style
and the costume illustrated here in gray Venetian, with cuff, and
collar of red velvet, and again on page 3, in wine-red ladies’
cloth, with a delicate green embroidered band on cuffs and collar
suggests two jaunty adaptations of this pattern. The bolero and
princess styles being essentially of the dressy order should be worn
only with dressy blouses, especially those of the lingerie order, of
sheer materials with trimmings of lace and fine embroidery. The long
gloves may be replaced by a dressy cuff and short gloves. Nine gores
in round length, having a side plait at each seam are employed in
shaping the skirt, with an inverted plait at the back, under which
the closing is made. A measurement of 5 1/4 yards is attained at the
lower edge with the plaits drawn out and machine stitches, or
several rows of braid add ornamentation to the bottom of the skirt.
The Eton closes with fancy buttons and buttonholes but may be left
open if desired.
A fancy band finishes the bottom of the full
three-quarter length sleeve. Material for the jacket and skirt need
not necessarily match in texture and color. A blue shepherd’s check
for the skirt with blue broadcloth for the jacket, or a white serge
barred with blue lines and worn with a black Venetian Eton, are the
most up-to-date suggestions for informal developments of the
pattern. Other materials recommended as seasonable are viyella,
veiling, chiffon taffeta, nun’s veiling, sicilian, Burlingham, rajah
and linen. The pattern is cut in 5 sizes, from 32 to 40 inches bust
measure. Size 36 requires 10 1/4 yards of 32-inch material. The
medium size requires 3/4 yard of velvet for collar and cuffs. |
  
  
McCall’s December 1906, pg. 310
Nos. 1176 – 1190. –
Ladies’ Costume. – Green velvet, white satin and all-over lace were
stylishly combined in this lovely costume. But the design is suited
to combinations of cloth and velvet, cloth and silk, silk and lace,
etc. The waist is in one of the new bodice effects that are now
considered so stylish. The guimpe portion is made in the form of a
full blouse of white satin with the fullness simply gathered into
the neck and waist-line. It opens in the center-front. The back is
in one piece with its slight fullness gathered into the waist-line.
The sleeves have short puffs to just above the elbows, where they
are trimmed with turn-back cuffs of the material, faced with allover
lace, and met with long fitted cuffs of allover lace, though short
sleeves can be worn if desired. The velvet bodice portion of the
waist is cut in fancy shape and trimmed with green silk braid and
fastened with a fancy gilt button.
No. 1176. – Ladies’ Waist (Full Length or Short
Puff Sleeves), requires for medium size, for waist, 3 1/2 yds.
material 27 ins. wide, 2 5/8 yds. 36 ins. wide, 1 7/8 yds. 44 ins.
wide, or 1 5/8 yds. 54 ins. wide. For bodice, 1 3/8 yds. material 27
ins. wide, 1 1/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, 1 yd. 44 ins. wide, or 3/4 yd.
54 ins. wide. Lining required, 3 yds. 22 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 36
ins. wide; allover lace represented, 7/8 yd.; fancy braid, 8 yds.;
band trimming, 1 1/2 yds.; 2 buttons. Price, 15 cents.
No. 1190. – Ladies’ Eleven-Gored Skirt (in Sweep
Length, Perforated for Round or Short-Round Length, and having the
Side Gores lengthened by Pleated Portions), requires for medium
size, 10 3/4 yds. material 27 ins. wide, 8 yds. 36 ins. wide, 6 1/2
yds. 44 ins. wide, or 5 1/4 yds. 54 ins. wide. Braid represented, 8
yds. Length of skirt in front, 42 ins.; width around bottom, 6 5/8
yds. Price, 15c. |
|
   New
Idea July 1906, pg. 57
4135 – Ladies’
Costume.
There is nothing prettier for outing wear than a sailor
costume, and the one portrayed here is of blue linen, trimmed with
braid and a sailor knot of blue silk. The blouse is made to slip on
over the head and left to pouch slightly all around over the belt,
though if preferred the waist may be drawn down at the back. The
applied yoke, which is a pretty feature, may be used or not, and
choice is given between a square sailor collar or one that is in
round effect. In the full-length sleeve narrow tucks confine the
fullness at the cuff, and reversed cuffs finish the shorter length.
A removable shield is supplied, and this may be of the same material
as the dress or of white goods. Seven gores are used for shaping the
skirt which is in round length, and the closing is at the back
underneath the inverted plait. The cover shows a pretty adaptation
of the same pattern in blue with trimmings of white. Among the
suitable materials suggested for making a costume of this kind are
light-weight flannel, serge, cashmere, piqué, linen, chambray,
gingham, cotton cheviot, mohair and pongee. Bands of contrasting
material, or braid will be found serviceable for trimming. Any style
of belt may be worn. The pattern is cut in five sizes, from 32 to 40
inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 8 3/4 yards of 36-inch
material. |
  
  
McCall’s June 1906, pg. 830
Nos. 9644 – 9646 –
Ladies’ Costume. – This charming summer gown is of light-blue cotton
voile, but the pattern is suited to any thin material, lawn,
organdie, dimity, Swiss, batiste, China silk, chiffon taffeta,
grenadine, etc. The waist has a full front gathered into the pointed
neck and blousing very slightly at the belt. But, if one prefers, it
can be made high neck by the addition of a lace yoke and stock
collar. The closing is formed in the center-back. The very graceful
and stylish bertha is of the material, shirred to form a puff around
the neck and buckles. The sleeves have a full puff effect at the
tops, and, to match the bertha, are gathered to form another small
puffing just above the shaped ruffle that falls over the elbow. The
draped belt is of the same material. For quantity of material
required for this design, see medium on this page.
The skirt is cut with nine gores and is tucked to
flounce depth, while every alternate gore consists of a shirred
panel ending with a full flounce. For another view of this skirt and
quantity of material required for its development, see medium on
this page.
McCall Pattern No. 9644 (All Seams Allowed).
Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust
measure.
No. 9644. – Ladies’ Waist (High or Low Neck,
Full Length or Elbow Sleeves), requires for medium size, 5 3/4 yds.
material 22 ins. wide, 4 3/4 yds. 27 ins. wide, 3 3/4 yds. 36 ins.
wide, or 3 1/4 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 3 yds. 22 ins.
wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 36 ins. wide; allover lace represented, 1 1/2
yds.; edging, 10 yds; band trimming, 3 1/2 yds. Price, 15 cents.
McCall Pattern No. 9646 (All Seams Allowed).
Cut in 5 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 inches waist
measure.
No. 9646. – Ladies’ Nine-Gored Skirt (in Sweep
Length, Perforated for Round or Short-Round Length, the shirred
gores perforated for Flounce Effect), requires for medium size, 122
1/2 yds. material 27 ins. wide, 10 1/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, 7 1/4 yds.
44 ins. wide, or 5 3/4 yds. 54 ins. wide. Length of skirt in front,
42 ins., width around bottom, 5 5/8 yds. Price, 15 cents. |
|
   New
Idea August 1906, pg. 55
 
4171 – Ladies’
Tucked Shirt-Waist.
Pongee in a natural shade was used for making the
shirt-waist illustrated on this page, which is a good model for
serviceable wear. In the back, tucks are stitched to the waistline,
while in the front all but two groups are finished at yoke depth,
and the waist allowed to fall freely to the waistline. The closing
is down the center front underneath a box-pleat, and small buttons
are added for trimming. In the three-quarter length sleeve a band
cuff edged with narrow lace gives a dainty finish, and when the
full-length sleeve is chosen a deep cuff is provided. Any of the
following materials are recommended for making: madras, linen,
piqué, batiste, vesting, flannel, Sicilian, silk, and linen. The
pattern is cut in six sizes, from 32 to 42 inches bust. Size 36
requires 3 1/4 yards of 32-inch material.
(information below from May 1906, pg. 62)
4089 – Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt.
Three gores, consisting of a broad front gore and two
back goers, are employed in shaping the model illustrated here in a
black and white mixed goods, machine stitching giving a neat tailor
finish to the bottom. The closing is at the back underneath the
inverted plait, and the pattern is in round length, though a shorter
length may be easily adjusted by turning up the lower edge. A skirt
of this kind will be found serviceable to wear as an odd skirt and
my be made of almost any material, among which are ladies’ cloth,
Venetian, prunella cloth, chiffon taffeta, peau de
cygne, viyella, veiling, pongee, duck and piqué. Bias
stitched bands, folds, braid or embroidery will combine well in
making a more elaborate model. Page 7 portrays a white linen with
heavy lace, while three bias bands of the material give additional
ornamentation. The skirt is worn with jacket No. 4082. The pattern
is cut in six sizes, from 22 to 32 inches waist measure. Size 26
requires 4 1/4 yards of 42-inch material. |
   
  McCall’s
August 1906, pg.1018
Nos. 9754 – 8930. –
Ladies’ Costume. – This smart summer gown is of silk and cotton mull
in a lovely shade of yellow. The waist, which is very stylish and
pretty and most becoming to the figure, is cut with a round yoke of
allover lace. Below this the front fullness is laid in several lines
of shirring and then gathered into the waist-line, where it blouses
just slightly above the girdle. The closing is formed in the
center-back, which has a lace yoke, and is shirred in the same
manner as the front. The sleeves are in the form of two puffs and
are shirred at the end of each puff and trimmed with a band of
beading through which black velvet baby ribbon is run. The same
ribbon trims the lace yoke. For another view of this design and
quantity of material required, see medium on this page.
The skirt has a three-piece upper portion shirred to
short yoke depth on each side of the front gore, which is stitched
in tuck effect. The side portions are lengthened by a
straight-gathered flounce.
McCall Pattern No. 9754 (All Seams Allowed).
Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust
measure.
No. 9754. – Ladies’ Waist (High or Low Neck,
Full Length, Elbow or Short Puff Sleeves), requires for medium size,
3 3/4 yds. material 27 ins. wide, 2 7/8 yds. 36 ins. wide, 2 1/4
yds. 44 ins. wide, or 2 yds. 54 ins. wide. Lining required, 3 yds.
22 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 36 ins. wide; band trimming represented,
2 1/2 yds; fancy braid, 2 1/4 yds.; allover lace, 1 1/4 yds.; 2
buttons. Price, 15, cents.
8930. – Ladies’ Skirt (in Sweep or Round Length,
having a Three-Piece Upper Part, with the Front Gore Stitched in
Tuck Effect and the Side Portions Lengthened by a Straight-Gathered
Flounce). Cut in 5 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 inches waist
measure. Price, 15 cents. |
    
Delineator September 1906, pg. 324
9526 – Ladies’ Empire
Dress, in Sweep or Round Length; consisting of a Tuck or Cord
Shirred Body, with High or Open Neck and Full-Length or Shorter
Sleeves; and a Gathered or Plaited Two-Piece Circular Skirt.
An Empire design of more than usual beauty is here
illustrated in several developments of soft material with rich lace.
A lining supports the body which has tuck or cord shirring, the
puffs in front separating at the centre where tab extensions lap.
The body is attached to a yoke topped by a standing collar, but
which is omitted for the open effect, in this case shoulder straps
are used to connect the backs and front. The sleeves have shirrings
at the lower part, or the foundation may be in three-quarter length
covered with frills, or faced to the wrist. The skirt, in two
circular pieces seamed at the centre, may be gathered or plaited to
the body. It is in sweep or round length and the lower edge measures
about four yards and three-fourths in the medium sizes. The soft
woolen and silk fabrics are suitable for this design.
Dress 9526 is in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it requires for dress not including
ruffles, 11 yards of material 27 inches wide, with 1 1/2 yard of
all-over lace. Price, 15 cents. |
    
Delineator January 1906, pg. 16
8928 – Ladies’
Costume, in Long or Medium Sweep or Round Length, with or without
the Trimming Ruffles: consisting of a Waist, with High, or Any Round
Neck, Full-Length or Elbow Sleeves with or without the Frilled Caps,
and a Jaquette that May Be Omitted: and a
Five-Gored Skirt, Tucked or Shirred at the Top to Yoke Depth with
Panel Effect in Front or Gathered All Around.
Figured and plain voile and dotted eolienne, each with
lace for trimming, are pictured in the illustrations of this
graceful design. The body lining is essential for a foundation, and
the closing is made inconspicuously at the back. When the waist is
desired high in the neck, a shallow yoke topped by a standing collar
is added. For a round neck this yoke is omitted, and the waist may
be cut lower if desired. The full front at back are gathered and the
jaquette is a novel but not essential
feature. Gathers along the seam give a pretty draped effect to the
sleeves, the lower part of which fit snugly, with plain or pointed
wrist finish, or they may be cut off at the elbow. Linings support
them, and frilled caps may be added. The frills on the waist are
omissible.
A panel effect is given the shirred or tucked skirt, or
it may be gathered. Round length, or long or medium sweep may be
given, the lower edge measuring in the medium sizes about four yards
and three-fourths. Two or three ruffles are added if fancied.
Forget-me-not blue cashmere will make up prettily with
the jaquette of hunter’s-green velvet inset
with lace motifs, and the yoke, collar and cuffs of embroidered
white chiffon.
Pattern 8928 is in 6 sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it requires 11 3/4 yards of material
27 inches wide, or 7 1/2 yards 44 inches wide, each with 7/8 yard of
all-over lace, 1/4 yard of lace net, 18 1/2 yards of edging 6 inches
deep for three ruffles to trim skirt, and 12 1/2 yards 2 inches deep
to trim jaquette and caps. Price, 20 cents. |
|
