     
Delineator December 1905, pg. 980
8848 –
Ladies’ Double-Breasted Coat, Gored to the Shoulders, with
Attached Circular Skirt in Seven-Eighths, Three-Quarter or Short
Three-quarter Length, and Notched Collar or Tuxedo Collar-Facing.
The coats with added skirts are very stylish. A very
smart design is here pictured in cloth with velvet collar, and in
velvet with cloth collar. The coat is shaped in several gores, the
seams at the back and front extending to the shoulders, and the
fronts are lapped for a double-breasted closing, for which
buttonholes or cord loops may be used. A notched collar and a Tuxedo
collar-facing are supplied. The sleeves are shaped in regulation
coat style by two seams, and are finished with stitching and buttons
or with reversed cuffs. A narrow belt may cover the seam which
attaches the circular skirt at the waistline. Seven-eighths,
three-quarter and short three-quarter lengths are given. The front
edges of the skirt may meet or be cut away, and the back is seamed
for only a slight distance at the top, the plaits at each side being
secured to a corresponding depth.
A suit of brown velveteen might be made with a
seven-gored skirt and a coat like this, the Tuxedo collar-facing and
cuffs to be of brown silk heavily embroidered in self-color.
Broadcloth, camel’s-hair, satin cloth, cheviot, serge, kersey,
vicuna, Venetian, corduroy and velvet are suitable for reproduction.
Pattern 8848 is in 7 sizes from 32 to 44 inches bust
measure. For the medium size, it requires for coat in seven-eighths
length, 7 3/8 yards of material 27 inches wide, or 3 3/8 yards 54
inches wide; in short three-quarter length, 4 3/4 yards 27 inches
wide, or 2 1/2 yards 54 inches wide; each with 1/2 yard of velvet
for inlaying collar and cuffs. Price, 20 cents.
8854 – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt, in Round,
Short Round (Clearing) or Instep Length, with a Tuck-Plait at Each
Side Seam and in the Middle of Each Gore Stitched at Both Folds or
the Under-Fold to Any Yoke or Flounce Depth. (With or without the
Trimming Bands.)
All tastes are catered to this season in skirt modes,
plain and trimmed, fitted and full, and shirred or plaited or tucked
designs sharing equal favor. Tuck-plaits at the side seams and at
the centre of each gore give a very pretty effect to the skirt here
pictured in changeable broadcloth with Persian trimming bands, in
Scotch goods and in taffeta. Seven gores are employed, and the tucks
may be stitched along the outer folds or not, as preferred, to any
yoke or flounce depth, like the under folds. An inverted box-plait
is laid at the back and the addition of the trimming bands is
optional. In the medium sizes the lower edge measurement is about
five yards and one-fourth with the plaits drawn out, and the pattern
provides for round, short round (clearing) or instep length.
Cravenette, tweed, mixed goods, habit cloth, voile,
prunella cloth, cashmere, lansdowne, surah and rajah silk are
adaptable. Emerald-green chiffon broadcloth is suggested for a skirt
made from this design, and with a bodice elaborately trimmed with
lace, and a coat following the Empire lines a stylish costume will
result.
Pattern 8854 is in 9 sizes from 20 to 36 inches waist
measure. For 24 inches waist, or material without nap or distinct up
or down, the skirt not including trimming bands requires 7 3/8 yards
27 inches wide, or 4 3/4 yards 44 inches wide, or 4 1/4 yards 50
inches wide: with nap, 8 3/4 yards 27 inches wide, or 6 1/4 yards 44
inches wide, or 5 3/8 yards 50 inches wide. For three trimming
bands, 3 yards 27 inches wide, or 2 yards 44inches wide, or 1 3/4
yard 50 inches wide will be needed. Price, 20 cents. |
   
  
Designer April 1905, pg. 627, 629, 630
Ladies’ Jacket
Toilette.
The jacket is here made of green broadcloth, the revers
being faced with green peau de soie, and the vest made of novelty
vesting. The skirt is made of camel’s-hair cheviot.
9261 – Ladies’ Jacket with Vest.
This stylish jacket is made of light-tan covert cloth
with vest of white cloth. It is fitted by center-back, side-back,
under-arm and shoulder seams, also single bust darts. The center and
side backs are cut with extensions which are lapped in plaits, as
indicated. The upper portions of the fronts are laid back to form
revers, or these may be omitted, and the neck edge may be finished
with or without the flat collar-facing. The vest portions are
attached to the fronts of the jacket and close down the center front
with buttons and buttonholes. The sleeve is a two-seamed model
plaited or gathered into the armhole and finished with an
underfacing.
Covert cloth, serge, cheviot, box-cloth, tweed, English
flannel, taffeta silk, peau de soie, duck or pique may be used to
develop this design.
Ladies’ jacket 9261 is in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches
bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch bust size requires 2 1/2
yards of material 44 inches wide or 2 yards 54.
9249 – Ladies’ Fifteen-Gored Skirt in Round,
Short Round or Instep Length.
This stylish skirt, which is sometimes known as the
“Umbrella” or “Ripple” skirt, is made of black Panama cloth. The
design in one that lends itself readily to a varied style of
decoration, or may be developed without trimming. The skirt consists
of fifteen gores, the upper portion of the garment being without
fullness to deep yoke depth, thence the gores gradually widen to
produce the graceful ripple effect. The back of the skirt may be
finished in habit style or arranged in an inverted box plait.
Serge, etamine, taffeta silk, lady’s-cloth, summer
cheviot, tweed, piqué, duck, linen, gingham, chambray or foulard may
be used to develop this design.
Ladies’ fifteen-gored skirt 9249 is in 7 sizes, from 20
to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip
measure, price 15 cents. The 24-inch waist size, corresponding to
the 42-inch hip size, requires for round length, 4 5/8 yards of
material 54 inches wide. The width at the lower edge of the skirt is
5 1/8 yards. |
   
New Idea September 1905, pg. 61
3861 – Ladies’
Bolero Jacket.
The front and back laid in inverted plaits. With or
without the vest or collar.
Three sizes, 32, 36 and 40 inches bust measure.
The jaunty little plaited boleros promise to enjoy as
large a share of modish patronage during the first days of autumn as
during the summer. The smartly cut model presented is cut from
mastic lady’s-cloth and has stitching and fancy embroidered buttons
of the cloth as its only trimming. How easily the jacket is
elaborated into a very handsome affair is represented on page 3 in a
walking or calling gown of cardinal Burlingham silk. The vest of
white scrim is embroidered in red silk and a plaiting outlines the
collar and cuffs, and surrounds each button. The vest is closed by
lapping the points over each other from right to left, or the middle
point may lap over on the right to afford variation. Like the
notched collar and the cuff, the vest is sometimes omitted. The puff
elbow sleeves are quite full and are gathered into a band over which
the cuff is arranged. Panama cloth, light-weight serge and cheviot,
mohair and chiffon velvet are well spoken of for such jackets. The
pattern is cut in 32, 36 and 40 inches bust measure. Size 36
requires 2 1/4 yards of 42-inch goods.
3860 – Ladies’ Skirt.
Having a circular upper portion, with inverted plaits
over hips and at back, and lengthened by a circular flounce. Tucks
three inches deep. Round length. If the hips are larger in
proportion to the waist measure, order a size larger and take up
deeper plaits.
Six sizes, 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
All of the many double-skirt effects are fashionable.
On this page such a skirt is shown in white etamine to wear with
evening blouses, and on page 1 it reappears as part of an afternoon
walking-frock. The skirt consists of a circular upper portion,
lengthened into round length by a circular flounce. Each of the
parts is finished by a three-inch tuck. If desired, the lower edges
may be cut off three inches and faced by a bias band of contrasting
silk or velvet, or cut off six inches and lengthened by lace
insertion or edging three inches wide. The extra fullness in the top
is fitted snugly at the hips by inverted plaits, sometimes stitched
to yoke depth along the outer folds. In the medium size the lower
edge of the flounce measures about five yards. Chiffon, point
d’esprit, Louisine, peau de soie, cloth and silk mohair may be
employed. The pattern is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
Size 26 requires 7 yards of 42-inch material. |
    
New Idea January 1905
(information below
from December 1904, pg. 59)
No. 3596 – Ladies’ Waist.
Five sizes, 32 to 40 inches bust measure.
This waist may be worn over a skirt of the same
material to complete a gown, or used as a fancy separate waist. It
has a boned and fitted lining and hooks at the center front. The
striking feature of the mode is the arrangement of the material in
narrow box plaits which are laid at the back, the fronts and in the
sleeves. At the back the box plaits are laid from the neck to the
waistline, while at the fronts they end at yoke depth and open out
to give the requisite fullness over the bust. A plain girdle is
provided which may be covered with a wrinkled girdle of silk or
ribbon as shown in the illustration. The right front is deeply faced
with different material and is reversed to form the rever. The
closing is invisibly made and the neck completion is a fitted
collar. The sleeves are lined and pointed at the wrists and the puff
is adjusted to the arm by means of the box plaits. If made as
illustrated, the medium size requires 2 3/4 yards of 42-inch
material, 5/8 yard of contrasting material, with 1/2 yard of silk
for girdle.
(information below from December 1904, pg. 61)
No. 3584 – Ladies’ Seven-gored Skirt.
Five sizes, 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
This skirt is one of the most attractive models of the
season, and is particularly adapted to the light woolens and soft
silks now in vogue. It is shaped with seven gores and is in round or
dancing length. The front gore is perfectly plain and the fullness
at the sides and back may be gathered or plaited. In the large view
the material is laid over the hips and at the back in plaits, and in
the small view the fullness is shirred to yoke depth. The placket
opening is at the center back and a belt of the required size is
joined to the top. Decoration is afforded by means of tucks, which
are two inches in width and are arranged in groups. There is a
generous sweep at the lower edge, which measures in the medium size
6 yards. For completing a dressy frock no better model can be
offered. In the medium size, which is 26 inches waist measure, the
skirt will require 8 yards of 42-inch material for making. |
   
New Idea August 1905, pg.61
3822 – Ladies’
Tucked Shirt-Waist.
Made with full-length tucked sleeves and fancy cuff, or
leg-o’-mutton shirt-waist sleeves and band cuff. Tucks on waist one
and one-half inches deep. No lining. Five sizes, 32 to 40 inches
bust measure.
A rich, dark tartan silk, or even a tartan gingham, is
always striking in effect, when made up on simple lines. A
shirt-waist of this description is sketched on this page with relief
of white and a plain black satin tie. The one-and-one-half-inch
backward-turning tucks are stitched to yoke depth in front, but
extend to the waist in V effect at the back, the resulting fullness
being held in place about the waist with gathers. The sleeve may be
made up as a full-length tucked affair finished by a fancy cuff, or
as a leg-o’-mutton shirt-waist sleeve ending in a band cuff. The
closing is to be found under the right side of the simulated box
plait at the front, while the collar, arranged over a narrow band,
fastens at the back. No lining is needed in this mode. A neat
toilette for practical wear, shown on page 5, is formed of this
design carried out in blue-and-white checked louisine and used in
conjunction with a maroon kersey skirt, cut on pattern 3787. Washing
cheviot, cotton damask and Japanese silk give good results. Pattern
3822 is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 5
yards of 21-icnh material.
(information below from July 1905, pg. 60)
3778 – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
Five sizes, 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
The pattern of this skirt is given in the fashionable
round length, but may be made in shorter length if preferred. It is
cut circular, and for this reason is suitable to goods of wide and
medium widths. The adjustment over the hips is close, but at the hem
there is ample and fashionable fullness. The back may be made in
habit style or arranged in an inverted plait. The placket is at the
center back, and a narrow belt of the required size is used to
finish the top. In the construction of this skirt materials of
various weights may be used, in silk, woolen and washable fabrics,
and little or no trimming is required to make the style effective.
The pattern is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure. Size 26
requires 4 yards of 42-inch material. If the hips are large in
proportion to the size of the waist, it is advisable to use a
pattern one size larger than the usual size of the waist measure. |
   
New Idea August 1905, pg. 60
3830 – Ladies’
Waist.
With surplice closing. The sleeves in full or elbow
length, double or single puffs, and with or without revers collar,
trimming band or cuff. Fitted lining given.
Five sizes, 32 to 40 inches bust measure.
Black liberty satin, touches of orange silk, and deep
ecru lace go to make up a dressy gown on the modish surplice lines.
The fitted waist lining is covered by two surplice outer portions,
each cut in one piece, the extra width on the shoulder being
controlled by rows of shirring. The full portions of the waist are
outlined by shirred trimming bands, covered at the neck by revers
collars, and frame a plastron ending in a standing collar. This last
closes at the back, while the full portions and the lining fasten in
front. The long or elbow sleeves are formed with double or single
puffs at the tops and flare cuffs at the elbows. The tucked girdle
belt closes at the side front and has the ends of the trimming bands
fastened over on it. By omitting the trimming bands, revers collar
and cuffs, a simple washing waist is obtained; or, by cutting out
the lining in the shape of the plastron, a low-neck waist, suitable
for formal evening parties, is created. A very chic copy for dressy
afternoon or informal evening wear appears on page 4 in pale blue
messlinette with revers and cuffs of primrose silk, the skirt in
both toilettes being founded on pattern 3823. Chiffon, mousseline de
soie, silk voile, taffetas, organdy and lawn are recommended.
Pattern 3830 is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36
requires 4 1/2 yards of 32-inch material, 2 1/2 yards of insertion,
5 yards of edging, 3 yards of lace for frill and 3 yards of fancy
braid.
3823 – Ladies’ Thirteen-Gored Skirt.
With an inverted plait at back. Round length.
Perforated for 39 inches.
Five sizes, 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
In spite of the popular liking for very full skirts,
the more closely fitted modes still hold their own with well-dressed
women. Especially in the more substantial woolens and washing
fabrics, the results obtained are always better when the skirt has
been cut on a seven, nine or thirteen gored pattern. Thirteen gores
have the advantage of providing an ample measurement at the bottom,
the sage-green canvas model illustrated being a case in point; for,
while perfectly smooth at the hips, it extends into five and
one-quarter yards at the lower edge. The placket is concealed under
an inverted plait, and the pattern provides for cutting in round or
clearing (39-inch) length. The design is recommended for washing
fabrics, as the narrow gores are not easily ironed out of shape. It
is also excellent for well-developed figures. The skirt is used
separately or may form part of an etamine, cloth, canvas, mohair or
linen frock. Pattern 3823 is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
Size 26 requires 5 3/4 yards of 42-inch material. |
McCall’s June, 9040, 9034
Back view and information not available.
|
    
New Idea June 1905, pg. 59
3757 – Ladies’ Yoke
Waist.
With removable lingerie sleeves. To be made with or
without the lining.
Five sizes, 32 to 40 inches bust measure.
This waist closes at the back, and is made over a
fitted lining that may be used or omitted. The full part of the
waist is gathered, the upper edge is joined to the deep yoke, and
the lower edge blouses modishly over a girdle belt. The yoke, which
is square at the back and slightly rounded at the front, is finished
at the neck by a smooth-fitted stock collar of the lace. The model
provides for two distinct styles of sleeve, as pictured in the
figure and garment views. The long sleeve is supported by a fitted
lining, the lower half of which is covered smoothly with the
material, and the short sleeve is finished with a lingerie sleeve. A
waist made in this fashion is eminently suitable to complete the
dressy frock. The material selected is water-green voile; the yoke
and lingerie sleeves are made of fine lace over silk muslin. The
pattern is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. If made as
illustrated, size 36 requires 2 1/4 yards of 42-inch material, and 1
yard of all-over for yoke, collar and lingerie sleeves.
(information below from June 1904, pg. 61)
No. 3454 – Ladies’ Skirt.
In three straight sections. Perforated for round
length.
(Five sizes, 22 to 30 inches waist measure.)
The pattern of this skirt is in three parts and
consists of an upper section, centre section and flounce. All of
these parts are perfectly straight, so that the model is simplicity
itself. The upper section is gathered and finished with a belt of
the required size, and the placket opening is at the centre back.
The centre section is finished with a heading and is gathered and
joined to the top section, and the flounce is treated in the same
manner. The lower edge may be hemmed or faced, and the flare is that
which fashion prescribes. If round length is desired, the skirt may
be cut off on the perforated line given in the pattern. The mode is
adapted to all sheer materials in voile, veilings, organdie, crepe
de Chine, dimity and the like. The pattern is cut from 22 to 30
inches waist measure. Size 26 requires 5 yards of 42-inch material. |
   
  
Designer November 1905, pg. 7, 9, 13, 22
Ladies’ Evening
Toilette.
This toilette is made of lavender eolienne, the waist
being trimmed with purple velvet embroidered with gold thread and
paillettes.
1299 – Ladies’ Waist Closed At The Back. This
charming waist is made of violet peau de soie combined with all-over
lace. It is mounted on a fitted lining and the outer backs and front
are tucked in box-plait effect and are shirred at the waist-line.
Their upper edge is attached to the lower edges of a circular yoke
fitted by shoulder seams. When the low round neck is desired the
yoke is cut to the correct outline. A standing collar finishes the
high neck and the sleeve consists of a two-seamed, close-fitting
undersleeve and a one-seamed outside sleeve, having the fullness at
the lower edge disposed in tucks. The lower part of the lining
sleeve is faced to form a deep cuff, or when the elbow sleeve is
preferred, the lower part of the undersleeve is cut away. A shirred
girdle completes the lower edge of the body portions, and the
closing of the garment is made down the center back by means of
hooks and eyes.
Taffeta, peau de soie, pongee, foulard, peau de
cygne, louisine, drap d’été,
crepe de Chine or satin crepe may be used to develop this design,
and lace, insertion, embroidery, gimp, passementerie, ribbon, braid
or Oriental trimming may be used to ornament.
Ladies’ waist 1299 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches
bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch bust size requires 4 yards
of material 22 inches wide; 2 5/8 yards 36 inches, or 2 1/4 yards 44
inches wide.
1296 – Ladies’ Eleven-Gored Skirt In Short
Sweep, Round or Short Round Length.
White serge is used to make this attractive skirt,
which is an eleven-gored model, having an inverted box plait at the
back and an outside box plait at each side seam. A circular yoke is
provided, but may be omitted. It is fitted over the hips by
dart-shaped tucks.
Ladies’ skirt 1296 is in 6 sizes, from 22 to 32 inches
waist measure, corresponding to 39 to 53 inches hip measure, price
15 cents. The 24-inch waist size, corresponding to the 41 hip size,
requires, for short sweep length, with the yoke, 5 3/4 yards of
material which measures 54 inches in width. Width of the skirt at
the lower edge is 5 1/2 yards. |
    
New Idea November 1905, pg. 3, 56
3895 – Ladies’
Waist.
Waists of the dressier sort are usually closed in the
back, as this model in nile-green lansdowne, with yoke and long
cuffs of point gaze all-over lace, illustrates. A closely fitted
lining serves as a foundation and the pattern provides for the waist
to be made high in the neck with a standing collar, or cut out in
Dutch round outline or low round neck, if the waist is destined for
evening wear. Ample fullness both in the front and in the back of
the waist, as well as the desirable long-shoulder effect, are caused
by four rows of tuck shirrings extending around the neck opening.
Similar rows of tuck shirrings regulate the fullness of the puff
sleeve, which is attached to the body of the waist under the
extended shoulder piece, thus producing a long, unbroken shirred
effect along the shoulder seam. The deep lace cuff may be omitted if
an elbow-length sleeve is preferred. A narrow crushed girdle of
panne velvet, harmonizing with the material chosen, finishes the
waist. Messaline, chiffon, taffeta, crêpe de Chine,
peau de cygne and louisine are adapted to the
mode. Yoke and cuffs may be reproduced in Irish crochet
all-over lace, embroidered batiste, Brussels net, darned or spangle,
point d’Angleterre or Brussels all-over; the
choice of these being regulated by the weight and texture of the
fabric chosen. The pattern is cut in four sizes, from 32 to 38
inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 2 yards of 42 inch material
and 1 1/8 yards of all-over for collar, yoke and sleeves.
(information below from November 1903, pg. 59)
No. 3258 – Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt.
(Shirred to yoke depth and tucked at the lower edge.)
White crêpe de Chine with red embroidered dots makes
this stylish skirt. The model, which is extremely simple, is
slightly gored at the top, and the lower edge is bordered with a
cluster of one-inch tucks. The surplus material at the front, back
and over the hips is shirred at evenly-spaced distances to stimulate
a yoke, and the shirrings are attached to a yoke lining, which is
included in the pattern. The placket opening is at the center back,
and a narrow belt completes the top. No lining is given or required,
and the skirt may be worn over a drop-skirt of silk or lingerie,
whichever is preferred. The design is suitable to taffetas,
louisine, voile, etamine, crêpe weaves, veilings, cashmere and such
like. The pattern is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure. Size 26
requires 6 yards of 42-inch material. |
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