Delineator December 1904, pg. 12, 902

     8013 – Ladies’ Gored Coat or Jacket – The fitted coat is much favored and is equally popular in seven-eighths, regulation and short three-quarter and long hip lengths. All of these lengths are given for the mode here picture, and a fly closing is used. The front and back are formed of sections seamed to the shoulders and two under-arm gores give stylish shaping, the seams being strapped if desired. A vent at the back is provided for in the making, but the seam may be closed all the way if preferred. A stylish finish is given the neck by either a notched collar or a shawl collar-facing, and choice may be made of coat or bishop sleeves, with cuffs or without.
     Dull-blue vigoureux zibeline will make up stylishly with a velvet collar and cuffs cravenette, rough serge, heather mixtures, lustre cloth, tweed and covert and recommended.
     Pattern 8013 is in 8 sizes from 32 to 46 inches bust measure. For the medium size, the seven-eighths coat needs 5 5/8 yards of material 54 inches wide; for long hip coat, 3 5/8 yards in the same width will be required. Price, 20 cents.
     8018 – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt – A yoke and band facing in plain or fancy outline add materially to the attractiveness of the skirt, but the plainly developed skirt is always favored. Brown storm cheviot and fancy woolen goods were used for illustration, and machine-stitching gives a tailor finish. Seven gores afford excellent shaping, the mode being closely adjusted about the hips and flaring smartly at the foot. The back may have an inverted box-plait or be in habit style, and round, short round or instep length may be given, the lower edge measuring about four yards and one-fourth in medium sizes.
     Blue serge would make a serviceable skirt, and narrow braid might be used to trim the yoke and band facings. Cloth-covered buttons in groups of two or three would be effective with the scolloped band facings.
     Pattern 8018 is in 9 sizes from 20 to 36 inches waist measure. For 24 inches waist, the skirt with yoke and band facings needs 6 1/4 yards of material 44 inches wide; without yoke and band facings, 4 3/4 yards in the same width. Price of pattern, 20 cents.

Delineator November 1904, pg. 678

     7941 – Ladies’ Coat – A Directoire coat is in developments of black velours ornamented with point de Venise lace, and a white silk vest, and in tan cloth combined with watered satin and brown velvet. Seams extending to the shoulders are a feature and may be concealed by bands. The garment is made without a break at the waist-line, and the fronts are separated to disclose a double-breasted plain or gathered vest cut out at the neck. Single, double or triple revers are stylishly added, and the high collar with tab ends may support a turn-down portion. Gathers regulate the fullness at the top of the voluminous sleeves, which are of the two-seam leg-o’-mutton variety, with three or fewer cuffs flaring from the hand.
     Pattern 7941 is in 6 sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. For the medium size, it will require 3 7/8 yards of material 54 inches wide, with 1 3/4 yard of satin, 1 yard of all-over lace and 1 yard of velvet. Price of pattern, 20 cents.
     7943 – Ladies’ One or Two Piece Circular Skirt – Silk veiling in a soft tan shade was used in the development of the mode here illustrated. The skirt is circular and may be of one or two piece shaping, being plaited at the top and stitched or not, as fancied, to any yoke depth. Regulation or frou-frou medium sweep or round length may be adopted, and the lower edge measures about six yards ion the medium sizes. A five-gored foundation skirt may be employed.
     Voile, étamine, peau de cygne, peau de soie, grenadine, and soft fabrics in general may be used.
     Pattern 7943 is in 7 sizes from 20 32 inches waist measure. For 24 inches waist, the outside skirt needs 6 1/4 yards of goods 44 inches wide; for foundation, 6 7/8 yards 20 inches wide. Price, 25 cents.

New Idea October 1904, pg. 58

     Coat, No. 3493. Skirt, No. 3368. – Walking suit of brown chiffon velvet showing a blouse Eton with a drop yoke, worn over a seven-gored skirt having a plain front gore, with fullness over the hips and at the back. The coat is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure and the skirt is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
     (Information from August 1904 pg. 60)
     No. 3493 – Ladies’ Blouse Coat.
     To be made with or without the skirt portion and with the regulation or the drop shoulder.
     May of the newest coats are in blouse fashion like the garment here picture, which may be made with or without the skirt portion. The material chosen is black taffetas, but Louisine, satin, messaline, peau de soie, pongee, linen and light-weight woolen fabrics may be used for making with equal satisfaction. The deep yoke is cut with drop shoulders, but if the regulation length or shoulder is preferred, the extension can be cut off on the perforated tine given in the pattern. The neck and edges of the fronts are finished with a trimming band, and the closing is made invisibly. The sleeves, which are full and ample, are gathered into cuffs that finish with lingerie frills. The skirt portion may be gathered or plaited to the belt, and the coat may be made to match the skirt or be worn independently. Size 36 requires 8 yards of 21-inch material.  

Delineator September 1904, pg. 320

     7823 – Ladies’ or Misses’ Cape Coat or Jacket – The garments worn by the Japanese are showing their influence over Western modes, and a smart cape coat know as the Samurai jacket is here depicted in tan broadcloth. It is simple in construction, being cut with or without a centre-back seam, and the jacket and sleeves are in one. The latter are formed by short seams underneath, and reversed cuffs complete the lower edge. A collar facing, extending over the shoulders in epaulette style and with stole ends, is a pleasing adjunct.
     With chiffon velvet with lace will be pretty.
      Pattern 7823 is in 4 sizes from 30 to 42 inches bust measure. For the medium size, the coat without centre seam needs 1 3/4 yard of material 50 inches wide; with centre seam, 3 5/8 yards 27 inches wide. Price, 20 cents.
     7824 – Ladies’ Skirt – The kilted modes are very popular for general wear, and a skirt introducing the new kilt plaiting is here pictured in a development of panne cheviot in a soft shade of brown. It is formed of thirteen gored sections and arranged in a plait at each seam and in the middle of each gore, the plaits at the back giving the effect of two box-plaits. Tuck-stitching to any desired yoke depth holds them in position, and below they fall free to the lower edge, where a pretty effect is produced in walking. Round, short round and instep lengths are provided, and a measurement of about six yards is given with the plaits drawn out at the foot in the medium sizes.
     French Breton voiles and nub weaves are very stylish and will make up effectively and for rougher wear, the new tweeds and hopsackings, and other materials, such as serge, Sicilian and cloth, are excellent selections. These skirts are very effective when worn with the three-quarter or hip length tan coats, or with jackets of the same material.
     Pattern 7824 is in 8 sizes, from 20 to 34 inches waist measure. For 24 inches waist, the skirt requires 5 1/4 yards 50 inches wide of material without a nap or other distinct up or down: with a nap, 6 3/8 yards in the same width will be needed. Price, 20 cents.

McCall’s November 1904, pg. 158, 169

     Nos. 8680 – 8678. – Ladies’ Costume. – This costume consists of a stylish waist of all-over lace and an extremely smart skirt of one of the fancy mixed silk-shot woolens. The shirt waist has a plain front blousing modishly at the waist line. It closes invisibly in the center-back where the fullness can be either bloused over the belt or drawn down as shown in the different medium views on this page. In our model the neck is finished by a smart stock of the material which is given a chic touch by the addition of a black velvet band at the top. If intended for evening wear, however, this stock can be omitted and the neck cut either in Dutch round or square effect. The sleeves in the illustration are of the one-seam bishop variety and have a dart to the elbow at the back of the arm. They are completed at the wrists by straight cuffs of the material edged with black velvet bands to correspond with the stock. There are two sleeves given in the pattern, the ones just described and full elbow sleeves if the waist is to be made up with low neck as shown in one of the small views of the medium on this page.
     The skirt worn with this lovely waist is an especially pretty and popular model. It is cut with seven gores and has an attractive flare around the lower edge, while each breadth on either side of the front is cut in a shaped extension and fastened down by buttons which gives it a very stylish touch. If preferred these extensions can be omitted and the skirt plainly completed by rows of stitching.
      McCall Pattern No. 8680 (All Seams Allowed).
     Cut in 6 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42 inches bust measure.
     No. 8680. – Ladies’ Shirt Waist Closed and Bloused or Drawn Down At the Back (with High Neck or Dutch Round or Square Neck and Full Length or Elbow Sleeves and with or without Body Lining), requires for medium size, 3 3/4 yds. material 22 ins. wide, 3 3/8 yds. 27 ins. wide, 2 1/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 3 yds. 22 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 36 inches wide; insertion represented, 20 yds. Price, 15 cents.
     McCall Pattern No. 8678 (All Seams Allowed).
     Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure.
     No. 8678. – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt (in Round, Short-Round or Instep Length, with and Inverted Pleat at the Back and with or without Shaped Extensions), requires for medium size, 7 yds. material 22 ins. wide, 4 yds. 36 ins. wide, 3 3/8 yds. 44 ins. wide, or 3 yds. 54 ins. wide. Buttons required, 12. Length of skirt in front, 42 ins.; width around bottom, 3 7/8 yds. Price, 15c.

Designer August 1904, pg. 337, 340, 343, 348

     Ladies’ Toilette.
     Ladies’ waist 8815. The garment may be bloused or drawn down at the back and the sleeves may be in full or three-quarter length. Puff trimmings are supplied, but may be omitted.
     Ladies’ skirt 8817. The garment is formed of a six-gored upper part lengthened by a gathered circular flounce and with or without the puffs, and with a six-gored foundation skirt lengthened by a circular flounce. The lower edge may be in medium sweep or round length.
     Light-blue satin foulard is combined with all-over lace and finely tucked white chiffon for this lovely toilette. Wide lace edging trims the three-quarter-length sleeves.
     8815 – Ladies’ Waist. White crêpe de Chine, all-over lace, lace edging and lace medallions are the materials used to develop this charming waist. A girdle of coral-pink Liberty satin encircles the waist.
     The garment is mounted on a fitted lining, the upper portion of which is faced to yoke depth back and front. The full back and fronts of the material are gathered at the upper edges and attached to the plain bertha-vest portions. The latter are fitted by shoulder seams. Puff trimmings are attached to the bertha vest, but may be omitted. The sleeve is an especially pretty model and consists of a two-seam lining and a one-seam outside portion. The latter, which is quite full, is gathered at the upper and lower edges and shirred at the inside-arm seam. The lower edge of the sleeve is completed by a shirred or puffed band and with a frill of face. A gathered girdle finishes the lower part of the waist and the collar is a back-closing standing model.
     Cashmere, satin crepe, crepe de Chine, taffeta, peau de soie, peau de cygne, albatross, nun’s-veiling, challis, organdy, lawn or swiss may be used to develop this design, and lace, embroidery, braid, gimp, ribbon, insertion or Oriental embroidery may be used to decorate.
     Ladies’ waist 8815 is in 5 sizes, from 32 to 40 inches bust measure, price 20 cents. The 36-inch bust size requires 6 1/2 yards or material 22 inches wide; 4 1/2 yards 36 inches, or 3 3/4 yards 44 inches. As represented, 6 1/8 yards of 22-inch material were used, with 3/8 of a yard of 18-inch all-over lace, 1 3/4 yards of lace appliqué, 2 yards of lace edging and 3/4 yard of 22-inch silk for the crush girdle.
     8817 – Ladies’ Skirt in Medium Sweep or Round Length. This graceful skirt is charmingly developed in ecru silk-dotted batiste over a foundation of light-blue taffeta. It is untrimmed save for the puffed bands of the batiste.
     The outside skirt consists of a six-gored upper portion lengthened by a gathered circular flounce. The upper edge of the garment is gathered and the puffed bands for its decoration are supplied, but may be omitted. The foundation skirt consists of two front gores, two side gores and two back gores, the last united by a center-back seam. Both the foundation and outside skirt are joined at the upper edges by a narrow belt, the placket closing occurring in the back of the garment.
     Silk mull, dotted swiss, lawn, organdy, China silk, taffeta, peau de soie, grenadine, albatross, nun’s veiling, cashmere or canvas cloth can be used to make this skirt, and lace, insertion, embroidery, ribbon silk gimp or fancy braid may be used to trim.
     For those who prefer a plain flounce skirt this is an excellent design when developed as shown in the back outline view, with the puff trimming bands omitted. When made in this manner the flounce may be of very wide embroidered or lace-flouncing, or may be made of the same material as the rest of the skirt and headed with insertion, embroidery or rows of ribbon or braid. When the puff bands are used, they may be made of the same or contrasting material to that used for the skirt. A pink or blue lawn may have puff trimming of white organdy edged each side with narrow lace. Another pretty effect may be given by trimming the puff through the center with lace insertion or lace medallions. A grenadine or net skirt may be trimmed with bands of black chiffon over colored Liberty silk, this arrangement producing a most novel and pleasing decoration. A very handsome skirt is made in this manner of black Chantilly net with the puffs of black chiffon having a band of Chantilly insertion running through the center and the edges bordered with narrow Chantilly lace. Pale-blue Liberty satin underlies the puffs, and the foundation skirt is made of pale-blue silesia of the same shade. The foundation is trimmed about the foot with two narrow straight ruffles of silk. With this skirt made as described is worn a wide crush girdle of pale-blue Liberty satin.
    Ladies’ skirt 8817 is in 7 sizes, from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip measure, price 20 cents. The 24-inch waist size corresponding to the 42-inch hip size requires, with puffs, 11 3/8 yards of material 22 inches wide; 8 1/8 yards 36 inches, or 6 1/4 yards 44 inches; or, without puffs, 9 1/8 yards 22 inches, 6 3/8 yards 36 inches, or 5 yards 44 inches. Width of outside skirt at lower edge, 5 1/4 yards. Width of lower edge of foundation is 4 3/8 yards.

McCall’s March 1904, pg. 486, 498

     Nos. 8264 – 8217. – Ladies’ Costume. – This dainty summer gown is of lavender and white figured organdie, but all the new wash fabrics, lightweight woolens or silks can be made up with equal success by this pattern. The waist has a full front of the material, laid in three deep crossway tucks and shirred beneath a yoke of all-over lace. The closing is formed at the left shoulder and under-arm seam. The back of the waist is similar to the front. The sleeves are tucked and shirred in line with those in the body of the waist and are finished by cuffs of white all-over lace. For an evening toilette this waist is very charming cut with a low or Dutch neck as shown in the two smaller views of the medium on this page under which the quantity of material will be found.
     The skirt is made with a yoke of the all-over lace, but is preferred it may be finished with a shirred yoke. Around the lower edge it is stylishly completed by three deep tucks to match the bodice decoration.
     McCall Pattern No. 8264 (All Seams Allowed).
     Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust measure.
     No. 8264. – Ladies’ Tucked Waist (with High or Low or Dutch Neck and Full or Three-quarter Length Sleeves), requires for medium size, 4 1/2 yds. material 22 ins. wide, 2 3/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, 2 5/8 yds. 44 ins. wide, or 2 3/8 yds. 54 ins. wide. Lining required, 3 yds. 22 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 36 ins. wide; all-over lace represented, 7/8 yd. Price, 15 cents.
     8217. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (with or without the Shirrings or Yoke and in Sweep or Round Length). Cut in 5 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.

New Idea May 1904, pg. 50

     Waist, No. 3414. Skirt, No. 3301. – One of the new linens is used for making this costume, and heavy lace forms the bodice and yoke. The waist is cut from 32 to 42 inches bust measure, and the pattern includes three different styles of sleeve. The skirt, which is in two parts, has a habit-back, and the top is gathered and joined to a deep yoke. The pattern is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure.
     No. 3414 – Ladies’ Waist.
     (Having three styles of sleeve. To be made with or without the fitted lining.)
     The choice is given in this model of three different styles of sleeve, and the use of the fitted lining is a matter of fancy. The back of the waist is perfectly plain, with the exception of a slight fullness at the waist-line, and the fronts are gathered at the neck edges and also at the waist-line. The neck is finished with a collar-band, and over this the stock-collar is adjusted. The fronts are turned under in hems and are made to close invisibly. The full-length sleeve is gathered into a cuff and may be made without the lining if so preferred. Silk, woolen or cotton fabrics in linens, lawns and like materials are suitable for shirt-waists in this style. The pattern is cut from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 4 1/2 yards of 32-inch material.
     (information below from December 1903, pg. 59)
     No. 3301 – Ladies’ Skirt with Habit-back.
     Camel’s-hair serge in a pretty shade of blue was selected for this stylish skirt, and stitching supplies the tasteful finish. The upper part of the model is in the form of a deep yoke that fits closely to the figure and is dart-fitted over the hips. The back is in habit style, and a belt of the required size finishes the top. The skirt section is laid in tucks that are stitched as far as the knee and are then released. If shirring is preferred, the tucks may be omitted and the upper edge of the skirt portion gathered and joined to the yoke, as illustrated in the smaller view. The lower edge presents an ample sweep, and the pattern, which is cut from 22 to 30 inches waist measure, is perforated for shorter length, if so desired. Size 26 requires 4 1/2 yards of 42-inch material.

Delineator November 1904, pg. 676

     7966 – Ladies’ Costume – For the costume pictured above, light heliotrope crepe Olga with point de Venise lace, and pink louisine were selected. Five gores were used for the skirt, gathers regulating the fullness at the top. A deep or shallow flounce, also formed of five gores, and in puff or plain effect, with or without a frill heading, may ornament the lower edge, where a measurement of about 4 3/4 yards is allowed the skirt proper in the medium sizes and about 7 1/2 yards the flounce. Medium sweep and round length in regulation or frou-frou style are provided for, and a five-gored foundation skirt is included.
     The drapery on the bodice is arranged in surplice style, in either of two outlines, a fitted lining affording support, and the back is laid in tapering plaits to the waist-line and may be extended to form tabs or the new Directoire tails, as they are called. A round back yoke and a deep front yoke are included, and the pattern makes provision for round and pointed outlines as well as for high neck with standing collar. A deep bertha is an optional feature. The sleeves are made with double or single puffs in full or three-quarter length, or with single puffs in elbow style, two-seam linings being supplied.
      Pattern 7966 is in 6 sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. For the medium size, the costume with flounce will need 13 1/4 yards of goods 44 inches wide, without flounce 8 3/8 yards in the same width, with 3/4 yard of all-over lace. Price, 25 cents.

New Idea December 1904, pg. 58

Waist, No. 3577. Skirt, No. 3567. – Party frock of sky-blue voile. The skirt, which is full, is laid in deep tucks and is decorated with motifs of lace. The waist is décolleté and has a deep girdle of Pompadour silk. The pattern of the waist is given with a high neck and long sleeves, and is perforated for the low round neck, and sleeves of elbow length.
   (information below from November 1904, pg. 59)
     No. 3577 – Ladies’ Waist.
     To be worn bloused all around or drawn down at the back.
     This stylish waist may be used separately or to complete a costume suitable for afternoon or evening wear. One, two or even three materials may be employed for developing, including silks, satins, velvets and all the fashionable fabrics. The lining is closely fitted and boned, and hooks with the blouse portions at the waist at the back. Any fancy material may form the yoke, collar and lower half of the sleeves, and the full portions of the waist may blouse all around or in the front only and be drawn down at the back. The sleeves are made over fitted linings covered smoothly with the goods from the wrist to the elbow, and are surmounted by a puff. One of the new girdles or corselet belts is included with the pattern, which is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. If made as illustrated, size 36 requires 1 3/4 yards of 42-inch material, 3/4 yard of net for yoke, 1 yard of all-over for sleeves, 2 yards of insertion and 1 yard of ribbon 10 inches wide for girdles.
     No. 3567 – Ladies’ Skirt.
     In three sections. Perforated for short sweep.
     The pretty skirt illustrated here may be worn with a fancy bodice of the same material to complete a dancing frock or afternoon gown, or it may be worn as a separate skirt with any preferred style of waist or blouse. It is cut in three sections which are stitched together, the joining of each being concealed by a wide tuck. The upper portion is perfectly smooth across the front, and the fullness over the hips and at the back may be gathered or laid in half-inch tucks. The fastening is at the back and a belt finishes the top. The pattern is given in the length that fashion dictates for the dressy frock, but if a shorter sweep is desired it may be cut only to the length of the perforated line indicated on the pattern. The design is suitable to the diaphanous fabrics so much in vogue and is shown here in silver-gray crepe de Chine. The pattern is cut from 22 to 28 inches waist measure. Size 24 requires 6 3/8 yards of 42-inch material.