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    New
Idea February 1903, pg. 50, 59
Jacket, No. 3049.
Skirt, No. 2958. – The costume shown in the second drawing is made
of an imported novelty. It comprises a jacket that may be worn open
or closed, and a seven-gored skirt with slot-seams and a habit-back.
The jacket is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36
requires 2 1/4 yards of 54-inch material with 1/2 yard of velvet.
No. 3049 – Ladies’ Jacket.
One of the smartest models for a tailor-made jacket is
the one here pictured. It is made in one of the new suitings in
snow-flake effect, and matches the skirt over which it is worn. The
fronts, which are single-breasted, are each fitted with a single
bust-dart; they are deeply faced with the material, and above the
closing are reversed to form the lapels. The neck is finished with a
velvet collar, cut all in one piece, and pointed at the ends. The
back of the garment has a closer adjustment and like the fronts, is
carried below the waist-line to form tabs. The side portions end at
the belt and are lengthened by an added peplum. The sleeve is the
conventional model of the day, smooth-fitting at the top, and
gathered at the hand into a strap-cuff, to harmonize with the
strap-collar. Tweed, cheviot, covert, homespun, zibeline, velvet,
corduroy, Bedford cord, together with other fabrics too numerous to
mention, are suitable for making. The pattern is cut from 32 to 40
inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 2 1/4 yards of 54-inch
material with 1/2 yard of velvet. |
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   New
Idea October 1903, pg.50
Jacket, No. 3243.
Skirt, No. 3039. – This stylish costume is made of tan-colored
zibeline, and the design is admirably adapted to the early fall
tailored suit. The back and fronts of the jacket are laid in tucks,
and the skirt is a five-gored flare, with a habit-back. The jacket
is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 4 1/2
yards of 54-inch material. The skirt is cut from 22 to 34 inches
waist measure. Size 26 requires 4 yards of 54-inch material.
No.3243 – Ladies’ Tucked Jacket.
(Five sizes, 32 to 40 inches bust measure.)
The stylish jacket shown in the engraving is admirably
adapted to fall wear. It is made of tobacco-brown camel’s hair and
has a tailor finish. The garment comprises blouse portions fitted
with shoulder, under-arm seams and single bust-darts. Tucks are laid
in the fronts and back, and the open neck and front edges are
finished with a shaped band or trimming piece. The skirt portion of
becoming length is fitted at the top with darts and displays tucks
corresponding to those on the blouse. The skirt is attached to the
blouse, and a narrow belt conceals the joining. The sleeve, which is
a bishop model, is finished at the wrist with a prettily shaped
cuff. The model can be duplicated in any one of the fashionable
suitings in tweed, homespun, cheviot or novelties. The pattern is
cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 5 1/4 yards
of 42-inch material. |
   
  Delineator
January 1903, pg. 19, 31
Figure 1H – Ladies’
Costume; Representing pattern 6450, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes,
30 to 46 inches, bust measure.
Tucks are by no means ready to yield their place of
prominence as decorative features, and a stylish effect is produced
by their use in this costume of dark-red camel’s-hair zibeline
flecked with silver, black velvet and white silk providing relief.
The blouse Eton jacket has double-breasted fronts, here worn open
with rolling revers faced with the silk embroidered in black; neck
completion being afforded by a novel rolling collar. Turn-back cuffs
complete the bishop sleeves, and a strap-belt heads the peplum,
which may be single or in six or fewer peplum tabs. The back fits
snugly, and graduated tucks extend from the shoulders to the
waist-line both back and front.
The skirt is of the seven-gored order with tucks
extending to flounce depth, below which it flares modishly. The back
displays an inverted box-plait, and a long or medium sweep may be
employed.
A stock-collar of white silk, with machine-stitching
and buttons for ornamentation, is a stylish adjunct of this costume,
and represents pattern 6483, which is shown on page 44.
These trim costumes make up well in cheviot, tweed,
homespun and broadcloth, while for dressy occasions corduroy, velvet
cords and moiré velours are advised.
*details below from Delineator December 1902,
illustrated on pg.905 described on pg.912*
No.6450. – Ladies’ Two-Piece Tucked Costume.
The costume shows novel touches in the collar and
peplum, and canvas in a warm brown shade was the material used.
Shoulder and under-arm seams shape the jacket, which is
characterized by graduated tucks extending to the shoulders both
back and front, and closes in double-breasted fashion, the front
blousing stylishly. The ends of the rolling collar are pointed and
flat at the front, and the absence of lapels makes this a desirable
style for wear with a fur neck-piece or feather boa. A plain peplum
or one in sections, which may consist of six or fewer tabs,
lengthens the mode and is headed by a narrow belt secured with a
fancy buckle. The sleeves are of the bishop order, completed by
flaring turn-back cuffs mounted on bands. The use of the collar and
peplums is a matter of individual taste.
The skirt is in flare style formed of seven gores and
is tucked to accord with the blouse, the tucks terminating at
flounce depth. A clinging effect is given to the knee, below which
it flares in the accepted manner, a measurement of about four yards
and one-half being allowed at the lower edge in the medium sizes. A
long or medium sweep may be adopted, and an inverted box-plait is
arranged at the back.
This design would be adaptable for velvet which is in
such great demand for suits. Scratched, striped, dotted and ribbed
effects are equally popular and corduroy and velutina are
recommended. Twine suiting is very fashionable, and a costume of
this material in the new shade of blue, which is lighter and less
trying than sapphire, would be smart. Zibeline, vicuna, hard serge,
cheviot and mottled tweed would give good service.
We have pattern 6450 in 9 sizes for ladies from
30 to 46 inches, bust measure. To make the costume for a lady of
medium size, requires 6 3/4 yards of material 50 inches wide. Price
of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
No. 6483. – Ladies’ Tab Stock-Collar, Cuff and
Belt-Girdle.
Strap effects and tab ends are in high favor and
appear in every conceivable form as a trimming. A pleasing fancy is
to have sets of collars, cuffs and belt-girdles to wear with various
shirt-waists, etc. Those shown on page 44 are of white silk and will
accord with costumes of any material. Machine-stitching and buttons
afford ornamentation. The stock-collar is straight around at the top
and is seamed at the front for a short distance, the tabs falling
free below. A closing is made at the back. Unique shaping is given
the cuff, the over-lapping end being curved to extend upon the
sleeves. The straight tabs of the belt-girdle meet in front, while
those at the back are crossed at the centre.
The set might be appropriately developed in velvet
Scotch plaid panne or taffeta; dotted and striped silks and velvets,
bengaline and sati-faced cloths are also suggested. One made up in
this way would add very much to an otherwise plain blouse. The
buttons may be dispensed with and rows of machine-stitching used.
Another pretty finish is to follow all the edges with braid.
We have pattern 6483 in 3 sizes: small, medium and
large. In the medium size, the tab stock-collar, cuffs and
belt-girdle will require 1 yard of material 20 inches wide. Price of
pattern, 6d. or 10 cents. |
    
  Delineator
January 1903, pg. 21, 33, 39, 46
Figure 6H – Ladies’
Waist and Skirt: representing Waist pattern 6500, price 9d. or 20
cents; 8 sizes, 30 to 44 inches, bust measure; and Skirt pattern
7608, price 1s. or 25 cents; 8 sizes, 20 to 34 inches, waist
measure.
French cloth in one of the new grays, contrasted with
velvet in a deeper shade, silk, appliqué lace and chiffon, resulted
in the chic gown here shown. Flat and clinging effects about
the hips distinguish the new modes, and hip yokes contribute largely
to the close-fitting appearance which is so essential. A favorite
yoke is a continuation of the narrow front-gore, terminating in a
habit back, and it was introduced in this skirt, which has circular
sides with graduated tucks to flounce depth and with the fullness
removed in an inverted box-plait at the back. It is made over a
five-gored foundation, and either long or medium sweep may be
employed. Graduated straps of velvet having pointed ends caught with
cut-steel buttons furnish a stylish decoration.
The pointed revers-collar, that may be single or
double, in drop-shoulder effect, is a noticeable feature of the
waist, which has pouching fronts, opening over a full centre-front
of chiffon headed by a band collar of the tucked chiffon and
finished by a velvet strap. Puffs of chiffon, drooping gracefully
over novel cuffs, are introduced in the full-length bishop sleeves.
The back is slightly fulled at the waist-line, which is defined by a
crush belt. Pointed straps of velvet ornamented with cut-steel
buttons provide additional trimming.
A gown of ivory satin-faced broadcloth stitched with
scarlet silk and trimmed with straps of cloth perforated to show a
claret lining would be extremely smart. A stylish reproduction would
result from coronation-red canvas, combined with straps of black
taffeta. Lady’s-cloth, serge and light-weight zibelines are
recommended.
No. 6500. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
Every means of broadening and increasing the drooping
effect of the shoulders is sought, and a charming result is achieved
in the bodice. Two shades of brown silk were chosen for its
construction and effectively united with chiffon, lace and straps of
miroir velvet, ornamented with gilt buttons.
The back is lightly fulled at the lower edge, and a few gathers are
introduced at the shoulder seam in front, where it pouches in the
approved way over the belt. Either one or two revers-collars in
drop-shoulder effect may be employed. They are seamed on the
shoulders and extend to the belt, framing the full centre-front. A
stock-collar of lace affords neck completion, and straps of the
velvet with tab ends are arranged upon it. Linings support the
two-seam sleeves, which may be plain or left open at the outside
seam to disclose full puffs of chiffon. Single or double cuffs are
used and flare stylishly over the hand.
Satin lumineux is very
popular for waists, and would be pretty in any of the new shades
combined with cloth, silk muslin and Venetian all-over lace.
Brocades are exceedingly popular and are appropriate for this
design, as are also soleil, voile, Eolienne,
broadcloth, Louisine and crepe de Chine.
We have pattern 6500 in 8 sizes for ladies from 30 to
44 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist will
require 3 3/8 yards of dark silk 20 inches wide, with 1 yard of
light silk in the same width for large cuffs and large
revers-collar, 1 yard of all-over lace 18 inches wide to cover
standing collar, small cuffs and small revers-collar, 1 5/8 yard of
material 36 inches wide for puffs and centre-front, and 5/8 yard of
velvet 20 inches wide for the collar straps and to trim. Price of
pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
No. 6508. – Ladies’ Skirt.
Skirts embodying new ideas are always received with
favor, and an example introducing a front-gore extended to form a
yoke as its distinctive feature. Mixed-gray melton, finished with
machine-stitching, was employed for the development. Tucks to
graduated flounce depth take up the fullness of the circular sides,
and an inverted box-plait is arranged at the back, while the yoke is
in habit style. A long or medium sweep may be adopted, and a
five-gored foundation gives support to the outside skirt, which
measures about four yards and one-fourth at the lower edge in the
medium sizes.
For general wear, dark-blue vicuna will be serviceable.
Cheviot, etamine, voile, crepe de Chine, broadcloth, brilliantine
and canvas will yield satisfactory results.
We have pattern 7608 in 8 sizes for ladies from 20 to
34 inches waist, or 37 to 55 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady of
24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the outside skirt needs 4 1/4
yards of goods 50 inches wide; and the foundation skirt, 4 3/8 yards
36 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents. |
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   New
Idea February 1903, pg.50
Waist, No. 3036.
Skirt, No. 2926. – The figure in the first cut illustrates a
two-piece costume consisting of a shirt-waist and one-piece skirt,
cut with a habit-back, and trimmed with bias folds of the material.
The waist is cut from 32 to 44 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires
3 3/4 yards of 27-inch material. The skirt is cut from 22 to 30
inches waist measure. Size 26 requires 4 yards of 42-inch material.
No. 3036 – Ladies’ Shirt-waist.
(To be made with or without the fitted lining and
trimming pieces.)
According to present indications, cotton waists will
continue in vogue during the entire winter. The stylish waist shown
in the cut is made of cotton cheviot, fleece-lined, and of heavy
quality. The back fits smoothly, except at the waistline, where
there are a few gathers. The material of the fronts is laid in
forward-turning plaits at each side of the center, which is finished
with a side box-plait. The neck is completed with a plain collar,
closing at the back, and ornamented with fancy trimming pieces. The
sleeve is just a one-piece model, gathered into the arm-scye and
into a straight cuff. The cuff is decorated with trimming pieces to
match the collar; but, if a plainer effect be desired, the trimming
piece may be omitted, together with the fitted lining. Large white
pearl buttons are used to fasten the fronts. The design is suitable
to silk, wool, or cotton fabrics. The pattern is cut from 32 to 44
inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 3 3/4 yards of 27-inch
material. |
  
  
Designer September 1903, pgs. 462, 464, 466
8178. – Ladies’
Tucked Waist Closed at the Left Shoulder and Side. The dainty
waist is made of white China silk and all-over lace and is
effectively trimmed with appliqué lace.
The waist is mounted on a fitted lining. The shaped
yoke portions are included in the shoulder seams. The full front,
which blouses gracefully, is tucked to bust depth and is attached to
the lower edge of the yoke, the fullness below the waistline being
shirred. The back is disposed in two clusters of lengthwise tucks.
The on-seamed sleeve is laid in two clusters of backward-turning
tucks from the arm’s eye to the elbow, thence the material forms a
puff, the lower edge of which is gathered and attached to the lining
at cuff depth, the lining being faced to simulate a wrist band. A
standing collar finishes neck edge of waist.
Ladies’ tucked waist, 8178, is in 6 sizes from 32 to 42
inches bust measure, price 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires
3 1/2 of material measuring 20 inches in width.
8200. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Flare Skirt with an
Inverted Box Plait at the Back and In Medium Sweep or Dip Length.
This skirt as shown in one large front and the
medium-sized back view is made of blue drap d’été
and is ornamented with appliqué lace. It consists of five gores. The
side edges of the front and side gores are ornamented with clusters
of narrow lengthwise tucks which may extend to lower edge of skirt
or terminate at the upper edge of circular flounce. When the flounce
is used the skirt should be cut away from beneath it. The fullness
of the skirt at the back is disposed in an inverted box plait.
Ladies’ five-gored skirt, 8200, is in 7 sizes from 20
to 32 inches waist measure, price 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size
requires, with skirt cut away beneath flounce, 9 3/8 yards of
20-inch material. Width at lower edge is 4 yards. |
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   New
Idea May 1903, pg. 56
Waist, No. 3121.
Skirt, No. 3059. – This costume is made of white crash, and is
trimmed with Cluny lace. The waist fastens at the back, and the
five-gored skirt has a habit-back and a graduated circular flounce.
The waist is cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires
2 1/4 yards of 42-inch material. The skirt is cut from 22 to 34
inches waist measure. Size 26 requires 6 yards of 42-inch material.
No. 3121 – Ladies’ Waist.
(Closed in the back. The front to be tucked full
length, or to yoke depth, as preferred. To be made with or without
the lining.)
Ivory-white voile and bands of wide insertion are used
in the development of this handsome waist, which may be made with or
without a lining. The outer front is laid in tucks, which may end at
the bust, as shown in the figure view, or be carried to the
waist-line, where the fullness is gathered, and droops over the
belt. The back is perfectly plain, and the collar is covered with a
band of insertion. Similar decoration is applied to the sleeves and
wrists. The sleeve is unlined, and is cut in one piece; it is laid
at the top in tucks, and at the bottom it is gathered into the
wrist-band. The pattern I cut from 32 to 40 inches bust measure.
Size 36 requires 2 1/4 yards of 42-inch material, with 5 yards of
insertion. |
   
  McCall’s
July 1903, pg. 847
McCall Bazar Pattern
No. 7894 (All Seams Allowed).
Cut in 7 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 and 44 inches
bust measure.
No. 7894. – Ladies’ Shirt Waist (with or without
Fitted Lining), requires for medium size, 3 1/4 yards material 22
inches wide, 2 3/4 yards 27 inches wide, 2 yards 36 inches wide, or
1 3/4 yards 44 inches wide. Lining required, 2 1/2 yards 22 inches
wide, or 1 7/8 yards 36 inches wide; embroidered insertion
represented, 6 1/2 yards; 10 buttons. Price, 15 cents.
McCall Bazar Pattern No. 7898 (All Seams Allowed).
Cut in 7 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches
waist measure.
No. 7898. – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Pleated Skirt,
requires for medium size, 6 7/8 yards material 27 inches wide, 4 7/8
yards 36 inches wide, or 3 5/8 yards 44 inches wide. Embroidered
insertion represented, 4 1/2 yards. Length of skirt in front, 42
inches; width around bottom, 4 3/8 yards. Price, 15 cents. |
  
  Delineator
January 1903, pg. 33, 38, 47
Figure 5H (page 21). –
Ladies’ Waist and Skirt: representing Waist pattern 6499 and skirt
pattern 6501.
Barathea silk, which has the soft quality indispensable
for prevailing modes, in a pretty shade of green, was selected for
the gown here illustrated, with self-colored mousseline and cream
appliqué affording contrast. Crescent tucks are a unique feature of
the bodice, which has fronts suggestive of “Gibson” shaping, with
the closing effected under a plait at the centre. The back fits
smoothly across the shoulders, the slight fullness at the waist-line
being controlled by plaits under a belt. The sleeves have deep puffs
of the mousseline, completed with appliqué-trimmed bands. They are
further ornamented by handkerchief frills, which may be omitted
together with the crescent tucks and the circular yoke of mousseline
overlaid with appliqué in Van Dyke points, the material being cut
away beneath to give a transparent effect. The standing collar, also
of lace, is in seeming continuation of the yoke.
The skirt consists of a five-gored foundation and a
circular upper part cut in scallops outlined by the appliqué, and
lengthened by a graduated, circular flounce ornamented with tucks
arranged in fan shape. A habit back is introduced, and a long or
medium sweep may be employed.
Cream-colored veiling combined with guipure lace and
jeweled bands would result in a handsome gown for reception or
evening wear. L’Aiglon silk, taffeta
natté, Eolienne, canvas, etamine and silk
voile are very fashionable, and point Venise, Irish and Renaissance
lace will afford proper garniture.
6499. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
Unique decoration is employed in the bodice in the form
of pinch-tucks of crescent shaping, which are arranged in groups of
three. Than Louisine was associated with point Venise lace, chiffon
and black velvet in the construction. Slight fullness at the back is
taken up in plaits at the waist-line. Plaits are arranged on the
shoulders, producing the fashionable long effect, and a broad plait
ornaments the centre, outlining the closing. Lace over chiffon forms
the round yoke, which in this instance gives a transparent effect,
the material being cut away beneath, and the band collar, ornamented
with velvet, corresponds. Two-seam linings support the sleeves,
which terminate at the elbow and may be completed by handkerchief
frills falling over full puffs of dotted chiffon confined by narrow
bands. A velvet belt stylishly finishes the waist.
Soft woolens are well adapted to this style, and
cream-colored voile would be exquisite for a bodice made by the
pattern, with a skirt of the same material. Henrietta, Eolienne,
veiling, etamine, cashmere, albatross, soft silks and soft
silk-and-wools would also develop satisfactorily, and ribbon and
lace will furnish garniture.
We have pattern 6499 in 8 sizes for ladies from 30 to
44 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist will
require 4 yards of material 20 inches wide, with 1 yard of goods 45
inches wide for the puffs and wristbands, and 1/2 yard of velvet 20
inches wide (bias) for belt and folds to trim. Price of pattern, 9d.
or 20 cents.
6501. – Ladies’ Skirt.
A skirt that is suitable for cloth, silk or diaphanous
materials. Wool canvas in one of the pretty tan shades was used for
the latter development, and point Venise appliqué provided the
garniture. A five-gored foundation skirt, fitting closely at the
top, supports the circular upper portion of the mode, which is in
habit style at the back and adjusted over the hips by darts. Tiny
dart-shaped tucks in fan effect modify the circular flounce, which
lengthens the upper portion and flares pronouncedly at the lower
edge, measuring about four yards and one-fourth in the medium sizes.
A long or medium sweep may be employed.
A skirt of satin-faced crepe de Chine of an opal tint
would be charming with opal paillettes heading the flounce, while
equally attractive would be a skirt of ivory mousseline de soie made
over a foundation of robin’s-egg blue taffeta, and trimmed with the
fashionable chenille embroidery. Veiling, in a soft pastel-pink,
would be smart relieved by point Venise appliqué. Broadcloth,
soleil, voile, taffeta, satin
lumineux or basket cloth may be utilized.
We have pattern 6501 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20 to
36 inches waist, or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip measure. To make the
outside skirt, for a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, will
require 4 1/8 yards of material 44 inches wide; the foundation
skirt, 5 1/8 yards 36 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25
cents. |
   
New Idea November, pg. 50
Pictured on the cover
of the magazine is an exquisite gown of yellow chiffon decorated
with sequins and filigree work. The waist is made after pattern No.
3276, which is in sizes from 32 to 40 inches bust measure, and is
cut with high neck, perforated for low neck, and includes two styles
of sleeves. Size 36 requires 3 yards of 42-inch material. The skirt,
No. 3258, is a three-piece model, shirred to yoke depth and having
one-inch tucks at the lower edge. The pattern in cut from 22 to 30
inches waist measure. Size 26 requires 6 yards of 42-inch material.
No. 3276 – Ladies’ Waist.
This attractive model is suitable to complete a
party frock or dinner gown; it may be made with high neck and long,
close-fitting sleeves, or with low neck and flowing sleeves in
three-quarter length. The lining closes with the full portions at
the center front, and the pattern in perforated for the low, round
neck, which is completed by a handsome bertha. The long sleeve is
made over a lining faced to simulate a deep cuff, and the shorter
sleeve consists of a deep ruffle, which is gathered and joined to a
sleeve-cap. The materials best suited for developing include voile,
etamine, crepe de Chine and transparent fabrics. The pattern is cut
from 32 to 40 inches bust measure. Size 36 requires 3 yards of
42-inch material.
No. 3258 – Ladies’ Three-piece Skirt.
(Shirred to yoke depth and tucked at the lower edge.)
White crepe de Chine with red embroidered dots makes
this stylish skirt. The model, which is extremely simple, is
slightly gored at the top, and the lower edge is bordered with a
cluster of on-inch tucks. The surplus material at the front, back
and over the hips is shirred at evenly-spaced distances to simulate
a yoke, and the shirrings are attached to a yoke lining, which is
included in the pattern. The placket opening is at the center back,
and a narrow belt completes the top. No lining is given or required,
and the skirt may be worn over a drop-skirt of silk or lingerie,
whichever is preferred. The design is suitable to taffetas,
louisine, voile, etamine, crepe weaves,
veilings, cashmere and such like. The pattern is cut from 22 to 30
inches waist measure. Size 26 requires 6 yards of 42-inch material. |
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