McCall’s October 1902, pgs. 92 and 86

     No. 7389. – Ladies’ Blouse Jacket, requires for medium size, 1 7/8 yards material 36 inches wide, 1 5/8 yards 44 inches wide, or 1 3/8 yards 54 inches wide. Lining required, 2 yards; appliqué represented 1/4 yard; fancy braid, 5 yards; 6 buttons. Cut in 6 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
     No. 7397. – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt, requires for medium size, 8 1/4 yards material 22 inches wide, 6 yards 36 inches wide, 5 yards 44 inches wide, or 3 1/4 yards 54 inches wide. Extra material represented for tucks, 1 3/4 yards 36 inches wide. Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width around bottom, 4 1/8 yards. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.

Delineator April 1902, pg. 559, 570, 572, 580

     Figure No. 151D. – Ladies’ Eton Toilette. – A jacket (no. 5858) and skirt (no. 5859) for ladies are united at this figure. Zibeline is much used for tailor gowns, and in the new Spring colorings of pink, blue, green, mode, etc., is particularly pleasing. A smart exponent of prevailing styles is here illustrated developed in pink zibeline, with point Venise trimming. Side-plaits arranged at the lower part of the seams modify the seven-gored skirt, and applications of the lace in pointed effect give a becoming finish. The fullness at the back is arranged in a box-plait that may be left free or stitched down, as preferred, and the dip may be introduced in front. Sweep or short sweep length may be employed.
     The postilion is exhibited with good effect in many of the new Etons, a stylish example being given at this figure. The fronts of the garment are shaped to admit of a vest that forms rounding revers at the top, and the lower edges are extended in sharp points. The use of a centre seam at the back is a matter of choice, and a uniquely formed velvet collar edged with a band of white is at the neck. White soutache braid and buttons are arranged on the fronts in military effect, and a belt follows the lower edge, but its use is optional. A bell finish is given the sleeves, which may be fitted into the arm-hole by gathers or over a pad roll.
     A jacket of this type made up in tucked gray taffeta will be very effective worn with a cloth skirt in the same shade and showing strappings of plain taffeta terminating under small cut-steel buckles. A vest of white moiré strapped to match the skirt would give a pleasing touch. Black cloth would be handsome with a vest of white cloth embroidered in gold for contrast. Serge, camel’s-hair and the various weaves of cheviot and canvas cloth are recommended.
     No. 5858. – Ladies’ Eton Jacket.
     A postilion may be employed to give distinction to the mode introduced at figure No. 151D and also on page 570, where it is displayed in two developments, one showing a bias effect in tucking combined with plain silk, and the other in tan broadcloth, in each instance white silk affording contrast. The mode is of snug adjustment, with or without a seam at the centre, and under-arm gores connect the back with the dart-fitted fronts, which describe sharp points and are fashioned with generous width over the bust to give a graceful outline to the figure. Vest sections are revealed in front, and turn back at the top in oddly shaped revers. A stylish standing collar that slopes toward the front is introduced. The sleeves are of the two-seam order and widen at the wrists, where the outside seams are left open for a slight distance. Gatherers or a pad roll may vary the top, the latter being a new and becoming feature of the season. A strap-belt that passes under the fronts and crosses under a buckle follows the lower edge, defining the dip and concealing the joining of the postilion when employed. The latter is in two sections, having inward-turning plaits, and is a jaunty adjunct of the mode.
     Peau de soie is highly desirable for all occasions, and Irish lace over white satin is appropriate for facings. Moiré, satin-faced goods and tailor suitings make up attractively.
     We have pattern No. 5858 in 8 sizes for ladies from 30 to 44 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the jacket requires 3 3/4 yards of tucking 18 inches wide, with 5/8 of a yard of material 20 inches wide for belt and outside of collar, or a 1 1/4 yard of goods 54 inches wide; in each instance 5/8 of a yard of material 20 inches wide will be needed for vest and inside of collar. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 5859. – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Flare Skirt.
     Novelties have been introduced in all kinds of braids for garniture of street and tailor gowns. A medium-wide Hercules braid adorns the mode for making which mulberry homespun was used.
     The skirt is shaped with seven gores that taper becomingly to the waist, giving slenderness to the figure, and side-plaits are allowed at the lower part of the side seams, producing the requisite flare. The fullness at the back is disposed on in an inverted box-plait which may be strapped with the braid to correspond with the seams or left free. The dip may be defined at the front of the skirt, for which sweep and short sweep length are provided, and in the medium sizes the entire lower edge measures about four yards and three-fourths.
     Dull-pink zibeline, which is so popular at present, will be stylish with silk braid of the same color stitched in black. Hop-sacking, serge, cheviot, etamine, canvas and tailor suitings make up attractively.
     We have pattern No. 5859 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20 to 36 inches waist, or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt requires 5 5/8 yards of material 50 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

Designer November 1902, pg. 12, 29, 30, 42

     No. 7615, Ladies’ Coat (with fronts rolled open or closed in diagonal or revers style, and with or without skirt, peplum or cuffs), and No. 7643, Ladies’ Seven-Gored Deeply Flared Sheath Skirt (extended in frou-frou style at the bottom, in sweep or short sweep length and with habit back having a placket and seam or a buttoned or other trimmed effect; sometimes called the “Mermaid” skirt). – Deep scarlet zibeline is used for both these garments, and Persian lamb adds to their effectiveness.
     No. 7615. – Ladies’ Coat.
     The large and the medium-sized front views of this stylish coat show it made of black velvet, the revers, cuffs and collar being faced with sable. In the first view the revers are closed at the throat and the peplum is used. In the second front view the skirt portions and cuffs are used and the jacket is open in revers to the waistline. The medium-sized back view depicts the jacket made of Venetian cloth combined with velvet, and the small front view shows the construction of the garment when closed in diagonal style and with cuffs omitted. The small back view illustrates the back of the jacket when made with peplum.
     The garment is fitted by under-arm and shoulder seams. The fronts are cut to form revers, or may be closed in double-breasted fashion. The fullness at the lower edges is disposed in shirring. The flare collar is in six sections, and the sleeve is a two-seamed model gathered into the armhole and finished at the lower edge by an underfacing or a one-piece turn-up cuff. The pattern provides skirt or peplum portions, either of which may be used or omitted. The skirt portions are united by a centre-back seam and the fullness at the back is disposed in an inverted box plait. The joining of the skirt or peplum to the body portions may be concealed by a narrow belt.
      Kersey, melton, broadcloth, cheviot, tweed, velvet, panne, plushy, taffeta, brocaded silk or peau de soie may be used to develop this design, and braid, gimp, passementerie, fur, appliqué lace or machine stitching may be used to trim. A figure view on page 12 shows an entirely different development.
     Pattern No. 7615 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires, with the skirt, 7 1/8 yards of material 20 inches wide, or 3 yards 54 inches. As represented in back view, 2 3/4 yards of 54-inch material were used, with 1 1/2 yards of 20-inch velvet for facings. With peplum, 5 1/4 yards of material 20 inches wide are required, or 2 yards 54.
     No. 7643. – Ladies’ Seven-Gored Deeply Flared Sheath Skirt.
     The large front view of this stylish skirt shows it made of black velvet and the large back view depicts the garment made of light cloth, while the small view shows it buttoned down the back.
     The skirt consists of a front gore, two side-front gores, two side gores and two back gores, the latter united by a centre-back seam. The gores are all cut to flare gracefully in frou-frou style below the knee, and the upper portion of the garment fits the figure smoothly, the back being finished in habit style. A narrow belt finishes the upper edge, the placket closing occurring at the back. The lower edge of the skirt may be cut in sweep or short sweep length, and, if preferred, the back may be finished with buttons and buttonholes.
      Ladies’ cloth, broadcloth, tweed, cheviot, velvet, panne, satin, brocaded satin or velveteen may be used to develop this design, and braid, passementerie, gimp, appliqué lace or embroidery may be used to trim. Pattern No. 7643 is cut in 9 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 36 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 60 1/2 inches hip measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires 10 3/8 yards of material 20 inches wide. Width at lower edge of skirt, 5 yards.

Designer August 1902, pg. 372, 380, 385, 386, 393

     159E – Ladies’ Toilette.
     No. 7426, Ladies’ Round-Yoke Waist or Bodice (closed at left shoulder and side, and with high or Dutch round neck and full-length or elbow bishop sleeves), and No. 7433, Ladies’ Skirt in Sweep or Short Sweep Length (consisting of five-gored supporting skirt with three circular flounce draperies extending all around the skirt or terminating in panel effect in front; both skirt and drapery having inverted box plait or gathers at back). – This attractive summer toilette is made of white embroidered swiss.
     No. 7426. – Ladies’ Round-Yoke Waist or Bodice.
     Nile green peau de soie is the material used to make this dainty waist. The yoke, collar and cuffs are made of rows of bias silk joined by fancy faggoting. The front view shows the waist with Dutch round neck and elbow sleeves.
     The waist is mounted on a fitted lining overlaid with round yoke portions which are fitted by shoulder seams. If the high neck be used, a back-closing standing collar is attached to the neck edge; otherwise, the upper portion of the waist may be cut away in the Dutch round fashion. The full front of the material is gathered at the upper edge and attached to the lower edge of the yoke and the fullness at the lower edge is disposed in shirring. The back of the material is gathered at the upper edge and attached to the yoke and the slight fullness at the waistline is gathered. The closing of the waist is effected at the left shoulder and side by means of hooks and eyes. Two styles of sleeve are provided: one is a one-seamed bishop model mounted on a two-seamed lining and finished at the lower edge by a straight cuff which opens at the inside of the arm. The other is a one-seamed puff in elbow length mounted on a two-seamed lining. The yoke of this waist may be made solid, if preferred, or cut from all-over embroidery, lace, spangled net or fancy yoking, the cuffs in every case being made of similar material. When made of bands joined by faggoting, as pictured, a lining of contrasting color may be employed with good effect.
     Peau de soie, taffeta, pongee, cashmere, satin, nun’s veiling, novelty material, lawn, chambray, gingham, linen or foulard may be used to develop this design, and braid, lace, insertion, embroidery, gimp or passementerie may be used to trim.
     Pattern No. 7426 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires 3 3/4 yards of material 20 wide; 2 3/8 yards 36 inches, or 2 yards 44 inches. As represented in the front view, 2 3/4 yards of peau de soie measuring 20 inches in width were used for the yoke and the cuffs.
     No. 7433. – Ladies’ Skirt in Sweep or Short Sweep Length.
     White canvas cloth is the material selected to make this most attractive skirt. The trimming consists of white silk appliqué. One small view shows the flounce draperies extending all around, and the small back view shows the skirt gathered in the back and in short sweep length. The supporting skirt consists of a front gore, two side gores and two back gores, the latter united by a centre-back seam. The fullness at its upper edge at the back is disposed in an inverted box plait or gathers. The three flounce draperies are of graduated widths, the deepest covering the lower part of the skirt; they may extend all around or be discontinued in panel effect in front. The upper flounce is fitted over the hips by dart-shaped tucks, and the fullness of all the draperies the back is disposed in an inverted box plait or gathers, as preferred. A narrow belt finishes the upper edge of the skirt and the placket closing is made at the back.
     Drap d’été, drap de satin, taffeta, surah satin, peau de soie, canvas, etamine, cashmere, nun’s veiling, albatross, Sicilian, brilliantine, pique, gingham, linon canvas, chambray or crash may be used to develop this design , and braid, gimp, embroidery, insertion, passementerie or ribbon may be used for trimming.
     Pattern No. 7433 is cut in 6 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 30 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 51 inches hip measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires, as in large views, 10 yards of material 20 inches wide; 7 1/4 yards 36 inches; 6 1/8 yards 44 inches, or 5 5/8 yards of material which measures 54 inches in width, with 13 yards of appliqué lace to trim. As represented in small views, 10 1/4 yards of material 20 inches wide were used; 6 1/2 yards 36 inches; 5 5/8 yards 44 inches, or 4 3/4 yards of material 54 inches. With of skirt at lower edge, four and three-eighths yards.

Designer June 1902, pg. 158, 161, 163, 164

     No. 7295, Ladies’ Shirt Waist or Shirt Blouse (with or without body lining), and No. 7284, Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt in Instep or Shorter Length (with an inverted box plait at the back and one or two circular flounces). – The pictured waist is made up of polka-dotted pique and the skirt of gray linen stitched with scarlet.
     No. 7295. – Ladies’ Shirt Waist or Shirt Blouse.
     This pretty and simple shirt waist is made of striped blue-and-white linen. It is finished with machine stitching and trimmed with small pearl buttons. The small view depicts the garment without the collar and with the lower part of the body portions showing.
     The pattern provides a body lining which may be omitted. The back of the material is laid in two backward-turning tucks which extend from the shoulder seams, tapering gracefully to the waistline, the slight fullness of the material between the tucks at the waistline being disposed in shirring. The fronts are laid in forward-turning tucks at the shoulder seams, which extend to bust depth, and the fullness below the waistline is disposed in shirring. A box plait finishes the forward edge of the right front, and the garment closes down the centre of the front by means of buttons and buttonholes or eyelets and studs. A narrow band finishes the neck edge, and the collar consists of a black-closing band ornamented with shaped collar pieces. The sleeve is a one-seamed bishop model, gathered into the armhole and finished with a straight cuff at the lower edge. The cuff opens with the sleeve on the outside of the arm, the sleeve opening being finished with a facing.
     Flannel, crepe de Chine, China silk, surah satin, cashmere, nun’s veiling, gingham, chambray, lawn, percale or linen may be used to develop this design, and embroidery, insertion, ribbon, beading or gimp may be used to trim.
     Pattern No. 7295 is cut in 8 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 46 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires 4 yards of material 20 inches wide; 3 1/4 yards 27 inches; 2 1/4 yards 36 inches, or 1 3/4 yards of material which measures 44 inches in width.
     No. 7284. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt in Instep or Shorter Length.
     This stylish skirt is made of brown cheviot and is decorated with machine stitching. The small view depicts the garment without the upper flounce and in shorter length.
     The skirt is a five-gored model, consisting of a front gore, two side and two back gores, the latter united by a centre-back seam. The fullness at the upper edge at the back is disposed in an inverted box plait and a narrow belt finishes the upper edge. The placket closing is made at the left side. The pattern provides two circular flounces, which may be attached to the lower portion of the skirt, one above the other, or the upper one may be omitted.
     Serge, tweed, cheviot, cashmere, outing cloth, camel’s hair, homespun, duck, pique, crash or linen may be used to develop this design, and braid, gimp, fancy cord or machine stitching may be used to trim.
     Pattern No. 7284 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip measure, and cots 10d. or 20 cents. The 24-four-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires, in instep length, 8 1/2 yards of material 27 inches wide; 5 1/8 yards 44 inches, or 4 3/4 yards 54 inches; or, for shorter length, 7 1/8 yards 27 inches wide, 4 7/8 yards 44 inches wide, or 4 5/8 yards of material which measures 54 inches in width.

Delineator August 1902, pg. 171, 174, 182

     The modern shirt-waist costume is no longer the severe affair that its name would indicate, and no amount of labor is sparred in its decoration. A charming gown of this variety appears at this figure made up in pale-blue Summer silk, elaborated with medallions of hand-painted white satin joined on with faggoting, narrow ribbon being applied in fancy design in connection with the medallions. Rows of faggoting outline the graduated circular flounces that finish the bottom of the skirt, the latter being of the five-gored flare order with gathers or an inverted box-plait at the back. Short sweep and round length are provided, and the effect of a shallow hip-yoke is given in the application of the trimming.
     Tucks are introduced in the blouse, which puffs out in front, where the closing is arranged. The back is also relieved by tucks that are drawn together at the waist. Deep cuffs finish the blouse sleeves, and a velvet belt with crossed ends is worn. A four-in-hand tie and scolloped turn-over of white material corresponding with the medallions ornament the collar.
     Blue-and-white dotted foulard is much in demand for shirt-waist suits and will be especially smart made up after this design, with strappings of blue taffeta stitched in white. Pongee is also worn, and can be had in both plain and embroidered effects.
     No. 6149. – Ladies’ Dress.
     Shirt-waist suits are now displayed in foulard in unobtrusive colors as well as in wash fabrics and woolen goods. Dark-blue dotted brilliantine and white serge were used in the mode. The waist included in the costume is tucked at he back, and on the shoulders to yoke depth in front, larger tucks extending in novel effect to the waist-line, where the fullness may be regulated according to fancy. The fronts lap broadly, the closing being invisibly effected slightly to the left of the centre. Deep or conventional band cuffs may be used for completion of the bishop sleeves, and a strap-belt and removable collar with turn-over and jaunty tie are provided as appropriate accessories. A lining that comprises fronts and a back seamed at the centre may be used.
     The skirt, shaped by five gores, may have the fullness at the back arranged in an underfolded box-plait, or gathers may dispose of it. One or two graduated, circular flounces may extend about the skirt or terminate at the side-front seams, giving to the front-gore the effect of a panel. Short sweep or round length is provided for the skirt, which in the medium sizes measures about three yards and three-fourths at the lower edge, the measurement of the lower flounce being about five yards and one-fourth.
     Old-blue linen would be both becoming and stylish, and pique braid might be employed as a decoration. Chic effects are also obtained with dimity, grass linen, pique, butcher’s linen and lawn. Dark-blue bird’s-eye dotted foulard would be very smart for general traveling and street purposes.
     We have pattern No. 6149 in 9 sizes for ladies form 30 to 46 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the dress without flounces requires 6 1/4 yards of material 44 inches wide; with two flounces, 8 1/4 yards in the same width. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

Designer July 1902, pg.260, 273, 282, 287

     No. 7354, Ladies’ Surplice Shirt Waist or Shirt Blouse (with removable chemisette, elbow or full-length bishop sleeves, two styles of shawl collar, and with or without body lining), and No. 7376, Ladies’ Skirt in Sweep or Short Sweep Length (consisting of a three-piece skirt having a full-length panel front gore tucked at the side edges, and shorter side gores lengthened by a graduated tucked circular flounce, and a seven-gored foundation skirt; each skirt with an inverted box plait or gathers at the back). – Lace-striped lawn is used for this pretty toilette. All over embroidery is used for the collar, and insertion and pink ribbon supply the trimming.
     No. 7354. – Ladies’ Surplice Shirt Waist or Shirt Blouse.
     This pretty and exceedingly simple waist is made of figured lawn and is tastefully trimmed with Valenciennes lace and insertion. The large front view shows the garment with a V-shaped neck, elbow sleeves and shaped shawl collar. The large back view and one small front view show the waist with high neck and full-length sleeves, and the small view shows it without the shawl collar. The other small front view shows it with open neck, elbow sleeves and round shawl collar, while the small back view shows the elbow sleeves, round shawl collar and basque piece.
     The waist is mounted on a fitted body lining. The back of the material is slightly shirred at the waistline. When the high neck is used the lining fronts are concealed beneath a V-shapes chemisette finished at the upper edge by a back-closing standing collar. When the open neck is desired the upper portion of the lining fronts are cut away. The surplice fronts of the waist are laid in clusters of tucks at the shoulder seams, these tucks extending to bust depth. The lower edges of the fronts are shirred, and the pattern provides two styles of shawl collar, either of which may be used. One is shaped at the lower edge, and the other, which is much deeper over the shoulders, is rounded. Two styles of sleeve are provided. One is a one-seamed elbow sleeve, gathered at the upper edge, and finished at the lower one by a band. The other is a full-length, one-seamed model gathered at the upper and lower edges and finished at the wrist by a straight cuff, which may be buttoned at  the inside arm. A basque piece is attached to the lower edge of the body portions, but may be omitted.
      Silk, surah, sateen, linen, chambray, gingham, dimity, organdie, lawn or batiste may be used to develop this design, and lace, insertion braid, beading or embroidery may be used to trim the garment.
     Pattern No. 7354 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires 4 5/8 yards of material 20 inches wide; 2 3/4 yards 36 inches, or 2 1/4 yards 44 inches. As represented in large front view, 2 1/4 yards of 36-inch lawn were used, with 2 yards of lace insertion and 2 1/2 yards of lace edging to trim. As represented in large back view, 2 1/8 yards of lace insertion and 1 1/2 yards of lace edging were used to trim.
     No. 7376. – Ladies’ Skirt in Sweep or Short Sweep Length.
     This dainty design, which is especially appropriate for the making up of summer fabrics, is made of flowered pink-and-white foulard and is trimmed with white silk appliqué. The small view depicts the garment with gathered instead of plaited back.
     The skirt is a three-piece model, consisting of a front gore and two side-back gores, the latter united by a centre-back seam. The outer skirt is mounted on a seven-gored foundation, which is laid in an inverted box plait at the back. The outer skirt is fitted over the hips by dart-shaped tucks, and the extra fullness is drawn to the back and disposed in an inverted box plait or gathers, as preferred. The side edges of the front gore of the outer skirt are laid in backward-turning lengthwise tucks, and a tucked circular flounce is attached to the lower edge of the side-back gores, terminating at the side edges of the front gore. A narrow belt or binding finishes the upper edge of the skirt, and the placket closing is made at the back with hooks and eyes.
     Foulard, China silk, peau de soie, drap d’été cashmere, nun’s veiling, albatross, canvas cloth, grenadine, lawn, organdie, sateen, dimity, linen or batiste may be used to develop this design, and lace, insertion, embroidery, galloon, ribbon or passementerie would be appropriate for trimming.
     When transparent fabrics, such as net, grenadine, organdie, or swiss, are used for this extremely pretty model, the foundation skirt may be made of silk, organdie, lawn or percaline or contrasting color to that of the skirt, material. If it be desired to emphasize the panel effect, which is one of the newest features in skirts, the front gore may be made of all-over lace or embroidery, silk, nun’s veiling, albatross or other fabrics being used for the remainder of the garment, or, if the skirt be made of light-weight cloth, the front gore may be decorated with appliqué designs.
     Pattern No. 7376 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires 9 1/4 yards of material 29 inches wide, or 6 1/4 yards 36 inches. As represented, 2 1/4 yards lace appliqué were used. Width at lower edge of outside skirt is 5 3/8 yards.

Delineator June 1902, pg. 927, 933, 940

     Figure No. 238D. – Ladies’ Yoke Costume. – A costume for ladies is represented at this figure. A dainty gown is here pictured made of French printed mousseline, the ground being delicate yellow with a design in pale heliotrope. Heliotrope satin ribbon and appliqués and edging of yellowish lace afford contrast. A deep yoke of fancy tucking closing along the left shoulder is introduced in the bodice, which puffs out in front, where it closes and is drawn tight in the back. A bertha outlines the yoke in front, and neck completion is given in a straight collar. The elbow sleeves have caps, and deep lace-edged frills finish them, the bertha giving the required broad effect over the shoulders. A sash of ribbon bowed with long ends at the felt side is a fitting accompaniment. The neck may be cut in fancy or Dutch round outline, if desired, and the sleeves are also suitable for full length.
     The skirt is a smart five-gored made with the back arranged in gathers or an underfolded box-plait. Two slightly graduated gathered flounces give a bouffant effect at the bottom, and a long or short sweep may be used.
     A charming gown for wear on hot days would be of white India silk. More serviceable but equally smart would be a development in lace-striped cornflower-blue lawn. Another pleasing combination would be lemon-colored pineapple tissue and Irish crochet lace. Embroidered white batiste is fashionable and would make up attractively in this gown. Lace, ribbon and fancy stitching are generally included in the trimming, and a du Barry sash of liberty ribbon may be worn.
     No. 6017. – Ladies’ Costume.
     Yokes are a feature of many of the Summer gowns. In the former instance the development is in pink muslin, lace and ribbon. The waist is topped by the yoke in pointed outline, below which gathers take up the fullness at the back and front. The high collar that completes the neck may be omitted and a fancy or Dutch round neck employed instead. The closing of the yoke may be invisibly effected at the front or on the left shoulder, and the use of the bertha is optional. Turkish puffs give style to the sleeves, which may extend to the elbow, where they are lengthened by frills, or be continued to full length, the two-seam linings being faced to simulate cuffs. A crush belt bowed at the back adds finish to the waist, which is supported by a fitted lining.
     Five gores shape the skirt, which may have either a long or short sweep and show gathers or an inverted box-plait at the back. If preferred, one or two slightly graduated, gathered flounces may ornament the skirt, which at the lower edge in the medium sizes measures about 3 3/4, the lower flounce measuring about 5 yards.
     Pale-blue Pompadour organdy would be pretty with trimmings of Valenciennes lace. Dotted Swiss, lawn, dimity, India linon, foulard, batiste, etc., are also advised.
     We have pattern No. 6017 in 7 sizes from 30 to 42 inches, bust. For a lady of medium size, the costume without flounces needs 6 yards of material 44 inches wide; with two flounces, 9 1/4 yards in the same width, each with a 1 3/8 of all-over lace. Price, 1s. or 25 cents.

Designer November 1902, pg.22, 32, 39, 41

     3F – Ladies’ Evening Toilette.
     No. 7598, Ladies’ Waist Closed at the Left Side and Under the Arm (with high or square neck, full or three-quarter-length sleeves, and with applied plaits), and No. 7491, Ladies’ Skirt in Sweep or Round Length (consisting of a seven-gored box-plaited skirt with or without a fancy yoke, and a seven-gored foundation skirt; each skirt with an inverted box plait at the back) – Nile green crepe de Chine and black Chantilly lace are combined for this effective toilette.
     No. 7598. – Ladies’ Waist Closed At The Left Side and Under The Arm.
     Plain royal blue surah and blue-and-tan brocaded silk are used for this effective waist, which is trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The back view depicts waist with high neck and full-length sleeves, and the front view shows it with square neck and three-quarter sleeves.
      The waist is mounted on a fitted lining overlaid back and front with pointed yoke portions. The blouse front is shirred at the lower edge and the upper edge is attached to the lower edge of the yoke. The back of the material is attached tot the lower edge of the yoke and graduated plaits are applied to the front and back of the waist. A standing collar finished the upper edge of the high neck, or the neck may be cut in square outline. The sleeve has a two-seamed lining, the upper portion of which is covered with a pointed cap. To the lower edge of the cap the circular puff is attached, the lower edge of which is gathered and attached to the lining, which extends to the wrist and is covered with the material, unless the three-quarter sleeve is desired, when the lower portion of the lining is cut away. The closing of the waist is effected at the left shoulder and side by means of hooks and eyes.
     Peau de soie, taffeta, cashmere, poplin, surah, drap d’été, drap de satin, henrietta or nun’s veiling may be used to develop this design, and lace, insertion, braid, gimp, passementerie or ribbon may be used to trim. Figure view on pages 1 and 3 show different developments of this design.
     Pattern No. 7598 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents.
     The 36-inch-bust size requires 5 yards of material 20 inches wide; 2 1/2 yards 44 inches, or 2 1/8 yards of material which measures 54 inches in width. As represented in back view, 2 7/8 yards of plain silk 20 inches wide were used, with 2 1/2 yards of figured silk which measures 20 inches in width and 3 5/8 yards of lace appliqué to trim the collar, the lower edge of the yoke and the sleeve caps.
     No. 7491. – Ladies’ Skirt In Sweep Or Round Length.
     This novel and attractive skirt is made of dark blue ladies’ cloth, and in the large views has a yoke of dark blue velvet.
     The outside skirt is a seven-gored model ornamented with box plaits, which are stitched down to flounce depth. The fullness at the back is disposed in an inverted box plait arranged under the outside box plaits. When the yoke is used it is attached to the skirt and the plaits carried over it. The lower edge of the skirt is finished with a hem or facing, and it is mounted on a seven-gored foundation. The latter is laid in an inverted box-plait at the back, and both outside and foundation skirts are united at the upper edge by a narrow belt, the placket closing occurring at the back of the garment.
     Voile cashmere, drap d’été, drap de satin, ladies’ cloth, etamine, peau de soie or taffeta may be used to develop this design, and braid insertion, galloon, passementerie, ribbon, appliqué embroidery or gimp may be used to trim. Figure views on pages 1 and 3 show entirely different developments.
     Pattern No. 7591 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip measure, and costs 10d or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires 12 1/8 yards of material 20 inches wide, or 4 7/8 yards 54 inches. The width at the lower edge of the skirt is 5 1/8 yards.

Delineator December 1902, pg.895, 915, 919, 906

     A smart gown for dinner, reception and evening affairs is represented at the figure in rose crepe de Chine, elaborated with narrow point Venise appliqué threaded with velvet ribbon. The construction of the bodice is simple, the front and back being tucked en bayadère and gathered under a belt. The popular side closing is observed. Full-length bishop sleeves, with their fullness confined by bands at the wrist, are cut out at the top in drop style, revealing the arm. Straps of the velvet ribbon support the garment over the shoulders. Provision is also made of high neck.
     The tucked, circular skirt consists of a yoke, centre section and flounce. It is sheath-like to the knee, below which it flares gracefully. A habit back, with a medium sweep, is employed. The trimming corresponds with that on the blouse, and a five-gored foundation skirt, lengthened by a circular flounce, is furnished.
     A chic reproduction would be in cream-white veiling and Irish lace, with a touch of contrast introduced in pale-blue or coral panne, Crepe, silk voile, mousseline, grenadine, silk muslin and pliable fabrics in general are recommended.
     No. 6408. – Ladies’ Tucked Waist or Bodice.
     White cloth will be extremely popular for waists as well as for entire costumes and an artistic blending of satin-faced prunella and Irish lace over satin resulted in the pretty bodice. A lining supports the mode, which is secured at the left side and has a deep yoke topped by a standing collar. The waist is tucked en bayadère, the front blousing stylishly over a narrow belt of velvet ribbon. The full-length sleeves, mounted on linings and dropping over cuffs, are tucked to correspond and are faced at the top with the lace in drop-shoulder effect; if desired, however, elbow sleeves flaring modishly at the lower edge may be employed. Provision is also made for an “1830” low neck with straps supporting it over the shoulders.
     An evening gown of blush-pink voile and cream-colored Maltese lace would be extremely dainty with the bodice made in this style, or putty-colored peau de crepe would combine effectively with French bronze lace. Eolienne, Henrietta and canvas will also be satisfactory.
     We have pattern 6408 in 7 sizes for ladies from 30 to 42 inches, bust measure. To make the low-necked waist, for a lady of medium size, will require 2 1/8 yards of material 50 inches wide; the high-necked waist, 3 yards in the same width, with 1 3/4 yard of all-over lace 18 inches wide to cover yoke, collar, cuffs, lower part of waist and tops of sleeve. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 6416 – Ladies’ Skirt.
     Bayadère tucks are introduced with good effect in the design developed in enamel-blue etamine. The skirt is of circular shaping and consists of a yoke and centre section lengthened by a circular flounce falling in a medium sweep. A habit back is introduced, and the mode is closely fitted to the knee, below which it flares to the lower edge, where it attains a measurement of about five yards and one-fourth in the medium sizes. The foundation skirt is shaped by five gores which allow smooth adjustment about the hips, and is lengthened by a graduated, circular flounce, flaring at the foot.
     A pleasing reproduction of this style may be in mignonette-green silk canvas over a white taffeta foundation, and with this may be worn a bodice also in bayadère style and showing a white yoke. Voile, crepe de Chine, veiling, crepe de soie, and silk-and-wool mixtures are especially adapted to this mode, and taffeta, Louisine, Lansdowne, and the soft and pliable materials will also give satisfaction. Any decoration may be introduced between the tucks.
     We have pattern 6416 in 7 sizes for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. To make the outside skirt for a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, will require 5 7/8 yards of material 44 inches wide; for foundation skirt, 4 yards 36 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.