|
   
   
Designer
September 1901, pg. 472, 479, 480, 491
No.6720, Ladies’ Yoke
Norfolk Jacket with Plaits Laid On, and No. 6718, Ladies’ Circular
Skirt (with deep circular flounce from beneath which the skirt may
be cut away and with an inverted box plait at the back; to be in
sweep or round length and to have the regulation top or decided
dip.) – This stylish autumn toilette is made of novelty cheviot and
is trimmed with facings of black velvet.
No. 6720. – Ladies’ Yoke Norfolk Jacket With
Plaits Laid On.
The jacket depicted in the accompanying illustration is
made of dark crimson cheviot and is finished with several rows of
machine stitching. It is fastened down the front with cloth-covered
buttons and buttonholes. The small view of the Norfolk shows the
garment as it appears when the fronts are left open.
The yoke portions are shaped at the lower edges and
fitted by shoulder seams. The waist portions are fitted by
side-back, under-arm and shoulder seams, also single bust darts.
Shaped box plaits are applied as indicated, and conceal the
side-back seams and darts. The upper edges of the back and fronts
are attached to the lower edges of the yoke portions. The lower
edges of the jacket fronts are shaped, and a stitched belt is
attached to the garment. The upper portions of the yoke fronts form
revers which meet the rolling collar in notches. The sleeve is a
two-seamed model, gathered into the armhole and cut to flare at the
lower edge, where it is underfaced. With the exception of the flare
it is close fitting throughout.
Cheviot, tweed, frieze, broadcloth, double-faced cloth
or serge may be used to develop this design, and braid, gimp,
galloon, or facing of contrasting material would be suitable for
trimming.
Pattern No. 6720 is cut in 6 sizes, for ladies from 32
to 42 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20cents. The 36-inch
bust size requires 3 1/8 yards of material 27 inches wide; 1 7/8
yards 44 inches, or 1 1/2 yards of material 54 inches wide.
No. 6718. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
Gray drap de satin and appliqué of antique
insertion were the attractive materials selected to make this
stylish skirt. The small back view shows the garment in round
length, and the small front view the perforations for the decided
dip.
The garment consists of a circular portion united by a
centre-back seam and fitted over the hips by darts, the extra
fullness at the upper edge at the back being disposed in an inverted
box plait. The deep circular flounce is shaped at the upper edge and
attached as indicated. If preferred, the skirt may be cut away from
beneath the flounce, thus making the garment lighter in weight.
Serge, cheviot, tweed, drap d’ete, drap de satin or
cashmere may be used to develop this design, and lace,
passementerie, appliqué silk, gimp, braid or embroidery may be used
to trim. The flounce may be either faced or hemmed along the lower
edge.
Pattern No. 6718 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 20
to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip
measure, and costs 10d or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size,
corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires, for whole garment,
12 1/4 yards of material 20inches wide; 8 yards 32 inches, or 6 3/8
yards 44 inches. With skirt cut away beneath flounce, 8 yards 20
inches; 5 3/8 yards 32 inches, or 4 1/2 yards 44 inches were used,
with 2 1/4 yards of passementerie to trim. The width of the skirt at
the lower edge when draped is 3 3/4 yards. |
   
McCall’s June 1901, pg.601, 6585.6584
  No.6585.
– Ladies’ Eton Jacket, requires for medium size, 5 yds.
Material 22 ins. Wide, 3 5/8 yds. 36 ins. Wide, or 2 1/2 yds. 44
ins. Wide. Silk lining required, 4 yds; white silk represented, 3
yds; gimp trimming, 3 1/2 yds; gold braid, 1 yd; buttons, 12. Cut in
5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
No.6584. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (with Circular
Flounce and Sweep or Round Length), requires for medium size, 7 3/4
yards material 22 inches wide, 5 1/2 yards 36 inches wide, or 4 1/4
yards 44 inches wide. Lining required, 6 yards; insertion
represented, 3 yards. Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width
around bottom, 4 1/2 yards. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and
32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.
|
   
   
Delineator
September 1901, pg.340-341, 348, 357
Figure No. 87B (page
319). – This portrays a Ladies’ shirt-waist (no. 5349) and skirt
(no. 5330). The arrival of the Autumn season sees no decline in the
demand for novel shirt-blouse designs; on the contrary, they are, if
possible, more popular than ever. Both simple and elaborate designs
are shown, the latter being dressy enough for afternoon or calling
wear. Distinction is achieved in the mode forming a part of this
attractive toilette, which is made up in red foule,
with blue silk for contrast. The tucked fronts are topped by a deep
yoke and open over a chemisette-vest extending to the bottom. A yoke
also forms the upper part of the back, which is tucked to accord
with the fronts, and a collar of tucked silk to match the vest gives
neck completion. Deep cuffs outlined with black-and-white appliqué
and silk finish the full sleeves. A belt of ribbon is introduced,
and narrow black velvet ribbon and appliqué trim the waist, which
has a closing under the left front.
Tucks running around the lower part of the skirt are a
distinguishing feature. The mode is of circular shaping and has the
conventional under box-plait at the back. It is appropriate for
sweep or round length and may have the moderate or more pronounced
dip.
A black taffeta gown will be smart with garniture of
Persian bands or heavy lace appliqué. Voile, poplin and all the
silk-and-wool mixtures that are so fashionable may be used, and a
contrast introduced in the vest. A gown of mode or light-tan
nun’s-veiling over a foundation of taffeta in the same shade will be
stylish. The vest could be of tucked Nile-green crepe de Chine, with
bands of Russian lace for decoration.
No. 5349. – Ladies’ Yoke Shirt-Waist or Shit-Blouse.
The yoke, as a feature of exclusive designs, has been
restored to favor and is exhibited as the characteristic of recent
importations. Nile-green silk was employed to carry out the idea
embodied in the mode, with an effective garniture of stitched
strappings of cloth, black velvet ribbon and buttons. A
chemisette-vest and removable stock of tucking were stylish
adjuncts. A departure from stereotyped styles is displayed in the
shaping of the mode, which has a deep yoke at the back in curved
outline, and at the front describes points. Strappings conceal the
joining to the waist portion, which is made fancy with clusters of
tucks. The fronts separate all the way down and disclose a
chemisette-vest topped by a narrow band over which is worn the high
stock. Black velvet ribbon may be employed to connect the fronts,
the ends being knotted. Blouse-bishop sleeves give the waist good
tone, which is further emphasized by deep cuffs, flaring over the
hand in points.
A lining fitted by darts and shoulder and under-arm
seams may be used as the foundation of the waist.
A striking reproduction would be in white tucked
taffeta, with a yoke of d’Alençon lace over
white satin. Ivory panne would furnish the necessary decoration.
Liberty silk, veiling, cashmere, albatross, Lansdowne, challis,
flannel and brilliantine are also used.
We have pattern No. 5349 in 7 sizes for ladies from 32
to 42 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the
shirt-waist needs 3 5/8 yards of goods 20 inches wide, with 7/8 of a
yard of tucking 18 inches wide for stock and chemisette-vest, and
1/8 of a yard of cloth 54 inches wide for strappings to trim. Price,
9d. or 20 cents.
No. 5330. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
The continued favor of tucks is evidenced in the
skirt expressed in blue canvas cloth. The design is circular in
shaping and has no trimming beyond an immense cluster of horizontal
tucks extending all around below the knee. An inverted box-plait is
at the back. The mode, which measures about five yards and
one-fourth at the lower edge in the medium sizes, may be in sweep or
round length and have the conventional or decided dip.
Gratifying results might be attained by employing
silk, satin, broadcloth, lady’s –cloth, veiling, crepe de Chine,
etc.
We have pattern No. 5330 in 7 sizes from 20 to 32
inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. For lady of 24
inches waist or 41 inches hip, it needs 4 3/4 yards of goods 44
inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents. |
   
Delineator August 1901, pg.175, 182, 188
 
This pictures a Ladies’ waist (no. 5256) and skirt (no.5253). The
effect of the colors and materials combined in this gown is artistic
and stylish. Pastel-pink crepe de Chine, plain and tucked, and
tinted Louisine are associated in the mode, with garniture of white
embroidery edged with narrow black velvet ribbon. The bolero in low,
rounding outline, suggesting a yoke, is feature of this bodice,
which puffs out in front over the ribbon belt and closes at the
centre. Slight gathered fullness is taken up at the waist-line of
the back, and the bolero, scolloped at the lower edge, closes at the
left side with a lacing of black velvet ribbon. A straight high
collar completes the neck, and the three-quarter sleeves have puffs
and frills of the Louisine.
Tucks as a decorative scheme are prominent on many of
the new skirt designs and are introduced in the skirt shown at this
figure. The upper part of the mode is circular and tucked in tablier
outline, a straight flounce, also tucked, giving the necessary
length. A five-gored foundation supports the skirt, which has an
inverted box-plait at the back and is adapted for sweep or round
length.
A light-blue nun’s-veiling gown will contrast favorably
with flowered satin Liberty and bands of guipure. Old-rose chiffon
and light-weight white cloth will combine well, as will also
Nile-green crepe and white lisse. Bands of
Oriental embroidery may be used as trimming.
No. 5256. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
A bolero of tucked silk gives character to this waist
in the construction of which fancy tucking was used, with a girdle
and lacing of black silk and Cluny lace for elaboration. The bolero,
which is low and rounding at the top, closes at the left side of the
front and is short enough to reveal the waist beneath in scolloped
outline. The bodice, closing in front and supported by a fitted
lining, is smooth at the top with gathered fullness at the
waist-line, where a crush girdle fastened with a buckle outlines the
approved dip. A standing collar provides neck completion, and the
sleeves, that may be in either of two lengths, are in full bishop
style with a close-fitting over-sleeve that extends to just below
the elbow; the full-length sleeves are finished at the wrist with a
narrow band, but if they are in three-quarter length the band is
supplemented by a circular cuff.
The mode affords opportunity for many delightful
combinations of colors and materials, and a pleasing expression may
be had in white-and-blue polka-dotted batiste, with a bolero of blue
mercerized linen tucked, and trimmed with heavy
fiselle lace. A lacing of blue velvet and a belt to match
will provide pleasing accessories. Persian and India silks are
especially suitable, and other satisfactory materials are crepe de
Chine, veiling, mercerized duck, silk-filled chambray and
embroidered nainsook.
We have pattern No. 5256 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30
to 40 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist
requires 3 3/8 of goods 18 inches wide; the bolero an over-selves
will need of tucking or plain goods a 1 7/8 yard 18 inches wide, or
a 1 7/8 yard 20 inches wide of material to be tucked by the maker,
with 1/2 a yard of silk 20 inches wide for belt and for lacing.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
No. 5253. – Ladies’ Skirt.
An elaborately tucked skirt is in a smart development
of marine-blue nun’s-veiling, with Arabian lace appliqué for
decoration. A five-gored foundation skirt supports the mode, which
has a circular upper portion tucked in tablier outline, the tucks
tapering gradually to points; it is lengthened by a graceful flounce
tucked all around the top. The conventional or more decided dip is
introduced in front, and an inverted box-plait disposes of the
fullness at the back of both skirts. The mode is practical for sweep
or round length, measuring in the medium sizes about five yards and
three-fourths at the lower edge.
This design will be pretty in black taffeta silk, and
in any of the new Persian and Liberty satins; appliqués, motifs and
insertions of lace will supply necessary garniture.
We have pattern No. 5253 in 7 sizes for ladies from 20
to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady
of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt requires 4 1/2 yards
of material 44 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
|
  
Designer
February 1901, pg.357, 372, 375, 382, 383
136B – Ladies’ House
Toilette
No. 6273, Ladies’ Waist or Bodice (with sleeves in two
styles), and No. 6214, Ladies’ Five-Gored Flare Skirt (with inverted
box plait at the back; to have the regulation top or decided dip,
and a slight sweep or round length). – Figured foulard and plain
white taffeta where combined for this pretty toilette. Embroidered
silk bands supply the decoration.
No. 6273. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
Light tan ladies’ cloth and white taffeta were the
materials used to make the effective waist shown in the
illustration. The centre small view shows the garment with a plain
instead of a tucked vest piece and with plain sleeves.
The waist is mounted on a fitted lining. The back of
the material is plain save for a very slight fullness at the
waistline, which is disposed in shirring. The lining fronts are
concealed by a vest piece, which is attached to the right side and
fastens on the left with hooks and eyes. A back-closing strap collar
is attached to the neck edge. The side-fronts of the material are
shaped at their upper edges and are confined by gathers at the
waistline. A shaped and stitched band outlines the side-fronts and
the neck edge of the back, and a shaped belt is attached to the
lower edge of the bodice. The sleeve is a two-seamed model, gathered
into the armhole and ornamented at the lower part by a puffed
portion and two small bands, one heading the puff and the other
finishing the sleeve at the wrist; if preferred, this puff may be
omitted and the sleeve made plain, as in the small view.
Velvet, panne, surah, silk, ladies’ cloth, cashmere or
novelty goods may be used to develop this design, and silver or gold
galloon, braid, gimp, insertion, embroidered bands or ribbon may be
appropriately used to trim.
This pattern is cut in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches
bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size
requires 4 1/4 yards of material 22 inches wide; 2 5/8 yards 36
inches; 1 7/8 yards 44 inches, or 1 5/8 yards 54 inches. As
represented, 3 1/8 yards of 22-inch dark material were used, with
5/8 of a yard of 20 tucked silk for vest, and 3/4 of a yard of
22-inch light material for sleeve puffs, etc. |
  
   
Delineator
August 1901, pg.163, 180, 191
Figure No. 51B.
– This illustrates a Ladies’ waist (no. 5254) and skirt (no. 5255).
Strips of white lace joined with lacings of narrow black velvet
ribbon were associated with pastel-blue mousseline in the
construction of the bodice. The fancy fronts are cut low at the top
to display a drapery of the mousseline arranged in surplice fashion
and extending to the waist. The back is smooth and at the top
reveals a full, square yoke in scolloped outline. A collar of the
appliqué laced with narrow black velvet ribbon gives the neck
finish. Over-sleeves of the appliqué are laced to correspond with
the rest of the waist and reveal drooping lower portions finished
with lace strap-bands. A velvet belt describes the dip.
There are five gores in the skirt, which may have an
inverted box-plait or gathers at the back and is adapted only for
sweep length. It flares at the bottom, where two circular ruffles
edged with narrow black velvet ribbon are applied in scolloped,
outline, and a band of lace heads the top ruffled. Pastel-blue cloth
was used in making the skirt.
Black taffeta made after this design will be very smart
for afternoon wear. Bands of Persian embroidery may be used to trim.
White broadcloth, figured foulard and white crepe will also
associate well in the mode.
No. 5254. – Ladies’ Fancy Waist or Bodice.
The original and extremely stylish waist shown will
commend itself for garden-party, evening and theatre wear. All-over
lace and pale-blue silk mull were the materials used in the former
instance, with black velvet ribbon for contrast. A fitted lining
gives the required support, the lace bodice being shaped low and
square to reveal a full yoke at the back and full fronts crossed in
surplice fashion over a small front-yoke. The lace fronts are
connected by velvet ribbon, and the stylish high collar is laced to
accord. A closing is arranged in front, where the mode pouches over
a velvet ribbon belt that finishes the waist and outlines the
approved dip. The full bishop sleeves drooping over strap-bands have
tight over-sleeves extending to the elbow and laced on the outside.
An exquisite waist may be developed by the mode in
black Chantilly lace studded with steel paillettes in combination
with yellow mousseline and velvet ribbon of the same color for
lacings. Heavy laces, embroidered and plain batiste with motifs of
lace and linen, appliqué, taffeta and satin are appropriate to the
development of the design.
We have pattern No. 5254 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30
to 40 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist
requires for collar, fancy fronts, fancy back, over-sleeves and
strap-bands 2 1/2 yards of material 18 inches wide; 2 1/8 yards of
goods 45 inches wide will be needed for bishop sleeves, yoke and
surplice fronts. Price, 9d. or 20 cents.
No. 5255. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Flare Skirt.
A graceful flare characterizes the skirt made of linen
in the natural color, with pipings of white to trim. Five gores
shape the mode, which is designed for sweep length only and has
fullness at the back disposed of in gathers or an inverted
box-plait. The conventional or more decided dip is given at the top,
and the circular ruffles at the bottom, in scolloped outline, may be
omitted. In the medium sizes the skirt measures about 4 yards at the
lower edge.
We have pattern No. 5255 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20
to 36 inches waist or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady of
24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt with ruffles requires 11
1/4 yards of material 27 inches wide; without ruffles, 7 3/4 yards
of goods in the same width, each with 5/8 of a yard of contrasting
material 27 inches wide for pipings to trim. Price of pattern, 1s.
or 25 cents. |
|
  McCall’s
June 1901, pg.601 and 603

No. 6576. – Ladies’
Waist, requires for medium size, 4 3/8 yds. Material 22 inches
wide, 2 1/2 yds. 36 ins. Wide, or 2 1/2 yds. 36 ins. wide, or 2 yds.
44 ins. wide. Lining required, 2 yds; all-over lace represented, 1
yds; silk, 1 1/2 yds; beading, 2 yds; velvet baby ribbon, 10 yds;
velvet ribbon for belt, 1 yd; 1 buckle. Cut in 6 sizes, 32, 34, 36,
38, 40 and 42 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
No. 6580. – Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt, requires
for medium size, 7 yds. Material 22 ins. Wide, 5 1/4 yds. 36 ins.
wide, or 4 1/4 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 6 yds; extra
material represented for ruffles, 4 yards. Length of skirt in front,
42 inches; width around bottom, 4 1/4 yds. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24,
26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents. |
|
   Delineator
June 1901, pgs. 894, 895, 877, 896
  
Figure No. 231 X. –
This unites a Ladies’ waist (no. 5085) and skirt (no.5059). Tucked
and plain crepe de Chine in one of the pastel hues of heliotrope are
combined in this gown with cream-colored appliqué and white lisse
tissue, narrow black velvet ribbon giving a touch of distinction. A
graduated, deep, circular flounce gathered under a band of the lace
appliqué is a smart feature of the skirt, which is five-gored and
has a ripple habit back tucked at the top. The mode is suitable for
sweep or round length. A closing is made at the left side-front
seam.
The bolero is still seen on many of the latest designs.
The bodice shown on this figure displays a bolero that flares
becomingly at the left side. It pouches in front and closes at the
centre, the fullness in the back being gathered at the waist-line. A
full lower portion and cap facing of lace distinguish the sleeves,
which are finished with narrow bands. A crush belt of velvet ribbon
outlines the approved dip, and at the neck is a standing collar.
A gown by this design in blue and white foulard will be
exquisite.
No. 5085. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
A fancy bolero distinguishes the bodice expressed in
rose-pink taffeta, tucked and plain, white chiffon and Russian lace
appliqué. The bolero is straight across the back and slightly
rounded at the top in front, where it is closed at the left side.
The bodice, closing in front, is supported by a fitted lining and
displays gathers at the neck and waist in front, the fullness at the
back being drawn down tight. Fancy sleeves, mounted on close
linings, have over-sleeves capped at the top and terminate below the
elbow over full puffs with wristbands. The plain standing collar is
covered with lace arranged to form a point at the centre of the
front. A crushed belt encircles the waist.
An especially modish bodice might be developed in mauve
voile, cream guipure lace and white mousseline, black velvet ribbon
supplying the not of contrast.
We have pattern No. 5085 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30
to 40 inches, bust measure. To make the waist, including for tucks
in the bolero and over-sleeves, for a lady of medium size, requires
4 1/4 yards of goods 20 inches wide; 3/8 of a yard of goods 45
inches wide will be needed for puffs. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20
cents.
Skirt 5059 in Delineator May 1901 pgs. 737 and 739.
No. 5059. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt.
Graceful lines characterize this skirt developed in
bluet cashmere. The design is five-gored and has a ripple habit back
tucked at each side of the seam at the centre. The deep, graduated
circular flounce, from beneath which the skirt may be cut away, is
gathered at the top under a band of lace appliqué, adding much to
the general appearance of the mode. The skirt is adaptable for sweep
or round length and measures about three yards and one-fourth at the
foot in the medium sizes, while the flounce measures about four
yards and three-fourths. A slope in conventional or more decided
outline is introduced. Patent fasteners effect the closing at the
left side-front seam.
Crepe de Chine in a deep shade of pink know as
watermelon, over a foundation of white taffeta, will be exquisite in
the mode, and bands of lace insertion will afford decoration.
Flowered silk barege is also very fashionable and will make up well
in currant red, with insertions of black lace. Blue or self-colored
linen, trimmed with embroidered insertion, will develop a stylish
and serviceable skirt for morning wear with blouses or shit-waists
of lawn, gingham, etc. Other available fabrics are veiling,
Eolienne, bunting and albatross.
We have pattern No. 5059 in 7 sizes for ladies from 20
to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. To make the
skirt with gores extending beneath flounce, for a lady of 24 inches
waist or 41 inches hip, requires 7 1/2 yards of goods 44 inches
wide, or 4 3/8 yards of material in the same width for the skirt
with gores cut away from beneath flounce. Price of pattern, 1s. or
25 cents. |
    
  
Delineator December 1901, pg.865, 868, 876
Figure No. 234B (page
853). – Ladies’ Evening Toilette. – A waist (no. 5532) and skirt
(no. 5528) are here united. An artistic result is attained in this
smart gown by the association of canary-colored Lansdowne, chiffon
and lace, with garniture of chiffon ruches and ruffles and bands of
appliqué. The bodice, for which the material was tucked and cut to
give a diagonal direction, has a softly blousing front and backs
that close at the centre and have slight fullness at the bottom.
Low, square outline identifies the neck, and at the front an
ornamental section is arranged. Roses are artistically grouped at
the left of the corsage. Elbow sleeves in which openings are made to
permit the arm to show are introduced, and a graduated frill gives
completion. A ribbon belt is worn. A yoke facing may be arranged on
the lining if a high-necked bodice be desired, and the sleeves may
be in full length.
The skirt is a very graceful design in evening train
length. It is of circular shaping, with a seam at the centre of the
habit back. A narrow panel is introduced in the front, and over it
is arranged an accordion-plaiting of the chiffon. A graduated,
circular flounce is another feature, and the skirt is also adapted
for sweep or round length. The new sloping dip is given.
A handsome development would be in
pistache-green Louisine, with Irish point trimmings; another
would be pink-amethyst crepe de Chine and self-colored Cluny lace
with chiffon or Liberty silk for rosettes. White mousseline de soie
over white Swiss taffeta will produce a dainty gown for the
debutante. A sash of white satin Liberty will give a pleasing touch,
and white roses may be worn.
No. 5532. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
The youthful air imparted by the waist is greatly due
to the closing at the back. Pinkish-mauve tucked chiffon and lace
were used for the making in the first instance, and pearl
passementerie and frills and ruches enhanced the effect. The mode is
in low, square outline at the top, and across the front a pretty
effect is obtained by the introduction of an ornamental section. A
chou of ribbon being arranged at the
left side. The front is shaped to give the material a diagonal
direction from the shoulders to the centre at the bottom, and the
fashionable droop is displayed at the lower edge, where a belt
defines the new dip. Slight fullness appears at the lower edge of
the back, and a fitted lining supports the waist. The sleeves are
rendered fanciful by openings bordered with ruches, and a graduated
plaiting gives a graceful finish at the elbow. They may, however, be
continued to full length, flaring prettily at the wrist. A
high-necked development may be obtained by simulating a yoke on the
lining.
The design would be charming carried out in Nile-green
crepe de Chine embroidered with pink rosebuds and decorated with
pale-pink Juby trimming. White veiling would
also be pretty. Other fabrics that give satisfaction are Lansdowne,
Louisine, glacé silk and embroidered silk.
We have pattern No. 5532 in 9 sizes for ladies from 30t
to 46 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist
needs 3 5/8 yards of material 18 inches wide, with 3/4 of an yard of
all-over lace 18 inches wide to cover collar and ornamental section
and to simulate yoke, and 7/8 of a yard of chiffon 45 inches wide
for plaiting, ruchings and a frill to trim. Price, 9d. or 20 cents.
No. 5528. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
A circular skirt made of rosewood broadcloth. The mode
has a narrow front panel that is framed by the skirt, which laps
over in stylish effect and rounds away at the lower edge, but may be
square if preferred. The closing is made at the left side, and a
habit back is a noticeable feature. Provision is made for round or
sweep length, but if intended for evening wear a train may be
employed. The circular flounce, from beneath which the skirt may be
cut away, flares at the lower edge, measuring in train length about
five yards in the medium sizes, while the skirt measures about four
yards.
A reproduction in slate-blue foule,
with bands of taffeta, would be in keeping with recent mandates of
Fashion. Other popular fabrics are camel’s-hair, diagonal cheviot,
serge, vicuna, etc.
We have pattern No. 5528 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20
to 36 waist or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip. For a lady of 24 inches
waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt with flounce requires 6 1/2 yards
of material 50 inches wide; without flounce or with goods cut away
beneath flounce, 6 yards in the same width. Price, 1s. or 25 cents. |
  
McCall’s October 1901, pg.824
 
To Wear To a Dance. –
No. 6752.
Designed to be cut low neck all round, although the
pattern allows a high neck if desired, this waist is especially
appropriate for a dancing occasion when it is desirable to be
dressed as comfortably as possible. Made of point d’esprit, the
under waist of silk may be of any desired color, but is preferably
white. The garment fastens in the back and this allows the fullness
of the front to remain unmarred, by even hidden fastenings. As the
material is so gossamer-like, the sleeves are wrinkled to the elbow
and finished with a graduated frill of lace. With the waist is worn
a skirt of heavy black lace made over white. It would be possible to
use this waist pattern for a black net or chiffon which, made over
white would appropriately accompany the skirt.
For a hair trimming there is an aigrette of white and
black fronds held by one of the pretty novelty brooches, a butterfly
studded with mock jewels.
No. 6752. – Ladies’ Draped Waist (High or Low
Neck, Long or Elbow Sleeves), requires for medium size, if made as
represented, 3 5/8 yds. material 22 ins. wide, 2 3/4 yds. 36 ins.
wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 2 yds; lace
represented, 1 1/4 yds. Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches
bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
No. 6756. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (with
Circular Flare), requires for medium size, 10 1/2 yards material 22
inches wide, 7 yards 36 inches wide, or 6 yards 44 inches wide.
Lining required, 5 1/2 yards; satin represented for folds, 3 yards
Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width around bottom, 3 3/4
yards. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist
measure. Price, 15 cents. |
|