1901

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Designer September 1901, pg. 472, 479, 480, 491

     No.6720, Ladies’ Yoke Norfolk Jacket with Plaits Laid On, and No. 6718, Ladies’ Circular Skirt (with deep circular flounce from beneath which the skirt may be cut away and with an inverted box plait at the back; to be in sweep or round length and to have the regulation top or decided dip.) – This stylish autumn toilette is made of novelty cheviot and is trimmed with facings of black velvet.
     No. 6720. – Ladies’ Yoke Norfolk Jacket With Plaits Laid On.
     The jacket depicted in the accompanying illustration is made of dark crimson cheviot and is finished with several rows of machine stitching. It is fastened down the front with cloth-covered buttons and buttonholes. The small view of the Norfolk shows the garment as it appears when the fronts are left open.
     The yoke portions are shaped at the lower edges and fitted by shoulder seams. The waist portions are fitted by side-back, under-arm and shoulder seams, also single bust darts. Shaped box plaits are applied as indicated, and conceal the side-back seams and darts. The upper edges of the back and fronts are attached to the lower edges of the yoke portions. The lower edges of the jacket fronts are shaped, and a stitched belt is attached to the garment. The upper portions of the yoke fronts form revers which meet the rolling collar in notches. The sleeve is a two-seamed model, gathered into the armhole and cut to flare at the lower edge, where it is underfaced. With the exception of the flare it is close fitting throughout.
     Cheviot, tweed, frieze, broadcloth, double-faced cloth or serge may be used to develop this design, and braid, gimp, galloon, or facing of contrasting material would be suitable for trimming.
     Pattern No. 6720 is cut in 6 sizes, for ladies from 32 to 42 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20cents. The 36-inch bust size requires 3 1/8 yards of material 27 inches wide; 1 7/8 yards 44 inches, or 1 1/2 yards of material 54 inches wide.
     No. 6718. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
    
Gray drap de satin and appliqué of antique insertion were the attractive materials selected to make this stylish skirt. The small back view shows the garment in round length, and the small front view the perforations for the decided dip.
     The garment consists of a circular portion united by a centre-back seam and fitted over the hips by darts, the extra fullness at the upper edge at the back being disposed in an inverted box plait. The deep circular flounce is shaped at the upper edge and attached as indicated. If preferred, the skirt may be cut away from beneath the flounce, thus making the garment lighter in weight.
     Serge, cheviot, tweed, drap d’ete, drap de satin or cashmere may be used to develop this design, and lace, passementerie, appliqué silk, gimp, braid or embroidery may be used to trim. The flounce may be either faced or hemmed along the lower edge.
     Pattern No. 6718 is cut in 7 sizes, for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, corresponding to 37 to 54 1/2 inches hip measure, and costs 10d or 20 cents. The 24-inch-waist size, corresponding to the 42-inch-hip size, requires, for whole garment, 12 1/4 yards of material 20inches wide; 8 yards 32 inches, or 6 3/8 yards 44 inches. With skirt cut away beneath flounce, 8 yards 20 inches; 5 3/8 yards 32 inches, or 4 1/2 yards 44 inches were used, with 2 1/4 yards of passementerie to trim. The width of the skirt at the lower edge when draped is 3 3/4 yards.

McCall’s June 1901, pg.601,  6585.6584


 


No.6585. – Ladies’ Eton Jacket, requires for medium size, 5 yds. Material 22 ins. Wide, 3 5/8 yds. 36 ins. Wide, or 2 1/2 yds. 44 ins. Wide. Silk lining required, 4 yds; white silk represented, 3 yds; gimp trimming, 3 1/2 yds; gold braid, 1 yd; buttons, 12. Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
     No.6584. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (with Circular Flounce and Sweep or Round Length), requires for medium size, 7 3/4 yards material 22 inches wide, 5 1/2 yards 36 inches wide, or 4 1/4 yards 44 inches wide. Lining required, 6 yards; insertion represented, 3 yards. Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width around bottom, 4 1/2 yards. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

Delineator September 1901, pg.340-341, 348, 357

Figure No. 87B (page 319). – This portrays a Ladies’ shirt-waist (no. 5349) and skirt (no. 5330). The arrival of the Autumn season sees no decline in the demand for novel shirt-blouse designs; on the contrary, they are, if possible, more popular than ever. Both simple and elaborate designs are shown, the latter being dressy enough for afternoon or calling wear. Distinction is achieved in the mode forming a part of this attractive toilette, which is made up in red foule, with blue silk for contrast. The tucked fronts are topped by a deep yoke and open over a chemisette-vest extending to the bottom. A yoke also forms the upper part of the back, which is tucked to accord with the fronts, and a collar of tucked silk to match the vest gives neck completion. Deep cuffs outlined with black-and-white appliqué and silk finish the full sleeves. A belt of ribbon is introduced, and narrow black velvet ribbon and appliqué trim the waist, which has a closing under the left front.
     Tucks running around the lower part of the skirt are a distinguishing feature. The mode is of circular shaping and has the conventional under box-plait at the back. It is appropriate for sweep or round length and may have the moderate or more pronounced dip.
     A black taffeta gown will be smart with garniture of Persian bands or heavy lace appliqué. Voile, poplin and all the silk-and-wool mixtures that are so fashionable may be used, and a contrast introduced in the vest. A gown of mode or light-tan nun’s-veiling over a foundation of taffeta in the same shade will be stylish. The vest could be of tucked Nile-green crepe de Chine, with bands of Russian lace for decoration.
     No. 5349. – Ladies’ Yoke Shirt-Waist or Shit-Blouse.
     The yoke, as a feature of exclusive designs, has been restored to favor and is exhibited as the characteristic of recent importations. Nile-green silk was employed to carry out the idea embodied in the mode, with an effective garniture of stitched strappings of cloth, black velvet ribbon and buttons. A chemisette-vest and removable stock of tucking were stylish adjuncts. A departure from stereotyped styles is displayed in the shaping of the mode, which has a deep yoke at the back in curved outline, and at the front describes points. Strappings conceal the joining to the waist portion, which is made fancy with clusters of tucks. The fronts separate all the way down and disclose a chemisette-vest topped by a narrow band over which is worn the high stock. Black velvet ribbon may be employed to connect the fronts, the ends being knotted. Blouse-bishop sleeves give the waist good tone, which is further emphasized by deep cuffs, flaring over the hand in points.
     A lining fitted by darts and shoulder and under-arm seams may be used as the foundation of the waist.
     A striking reproduction would be in white tucked taffeta, with a yoke of d’Alençon lace over white satin. Ivory panne would furnish the necessary decoration. Liberty silk, veiling, cashmere, albatross, Lansdowne, challis, flannel and brilliantine are also used.
     We have pattern No. 5349 in 7 sizes for ladies from 32 to 42 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the shirt-waist needs 3 5/8 yards of goods 20 inches wide, with 7/8 of a yard of tucking 18 inches wide for stock and chemisette-vest, and 1/8 of a yard of cloth 54 inches wide for strappings to trim. Price, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 5330. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
      The continued favor of tucks is evidenced in the skirt expressed in blue canvas cloth. The design is circular in shaping and has no trimming beyond an immense cluster of horizontal tucks extending all around below the knee. An inverted box-plait is at the back. The mode, which measures about five yards and one-fourth at the lower edge in the medium sizes, may be in sweep or round length and have the conventional or decided dip.
      Gratifying results might be attained by employing silk, satin, broadcloth, lady’s –cloth, veiling, crepe de Chine, etc.
     We have pattern No. 5330 in 7 sizes from 20 to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. For lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, it needs 4 3/4 yards of goods 44 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

Delineator August 1901, pg.175, 182, 188

 


     This pictures a Ladies’ waist (no. 5256) and skirt (no.5253). The effect of the colors and materials combined in this gown is artistic and stylish. Pastel-pink crepe de Chine, plain and tucked, and tinted Louisine are associated in the mode, with garniture of white embroidery edged with narrow black velvet ribbon. The bolero in low, rounding outline, suggesting a yoke, is feature of this bodice, which puffs out in front over the ribbon belt and closes at the centre. Slight gathered fullness is taken up at the waist-line of the back, and the bolero, scolloped at the lower edge, closes at the left side with a lacing of black velvet ribbon. A straight high collar completes the neck, and the three-quarter sleeves have puffs and frills of the Louisine.
     Tucks as a decorative scheme are prominent on many of the new skirt designs and are introduced in the skirt shown at this figure. The upper part of the mode is circular and tucked in tablier outline, a straight flounce, also tucked, giving the necessary length. A five-gored foundation supports the skirt, which has an inverted box-plait at the back and is adapted for sweep or round length.
     A light-blue nun’s-veiling gown will contrast favorably with flowered satin Liberty and bands of guipure. Old-rose chiffon and light-weight white cloth will combine well, as will also Nile-green crepe and white lisse. Bands of Oriental embroidery may be used as trimming.
     No. 5256. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
     A bolero of tucked silk gives character to this waist in the construction of which fancy tucking was used, with a girdle and lacing of black silk and Cluny lace for elaboration. The bolero, which is low and rounding at the top, closes at the left side of the front and is short enough to reveal the waist beneath in scolloped outline. The bodice, closing in front and supported by a fitted lining, is smooth at the top with gathered fullness at the waist-line, where a crush girdle fastened with a buckle outlines the approved dip. A standing collar provides neck completion, and the sleeves, that may be in either of two lengths, are in full bishop style with a close-fitting over-sleeve that extends to just below the elbow; the full-length sleeves are finished at the wrist with a narrow band, but if they are in three-quarter length the band is supplemented by a circular cuff.
     The mode affords opportunity for many delightful combinations of colors and materials, and a pleasing expression may be had in white-and-blue polka-dotted batiste, with a bolero of blue mercerized linen tucked, and trimmed with heavy fiselle lace. A lacing of blue velvet and a belt to match will provide pleasing accessories. Persian and India silks are especially suitable, and other satisfactory materials are crepe de Chine, veiling, mercerized duck, silk-filled chambray and embroidered nainsook.
     We have pattern No. 5256 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30 to 40 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist requires 3 3/8 of goods 18 inches wide; the bolero an over-selves will need of tucking or plain goods a 1 7/8 yard 18 inches wide, or a 1 7/8 yard 20 inches wide of material to be tucked by the maker, with 1/2 a yard of silk 20 inches wide for belt and for lacing. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 5253. – Ladies’ Skirt.
     An elaborately tucked skirt is in a smart development of marine-blue nun’s-veiling, with Arabian lace appliqué for decoration. A five-gored foundation skirt supports the mode, which has a circular upper portion tucked in tablier outline, the tucks tapering gradually to points; it is lengthened by a graceful flounce tucked all around the top. The conventional or more decided dip is introduced in front, and an inverted box-plait disposes of the fullness at the back of both skirts. The mode is practical for sweep or round length, measuring in the medium sizes about five yards and three-fourths at the lower edge.
     This design will be pretty in black taffeta silk, and in any of the new Persian and Liberty satins; appliqués, motifs and insertions of lace will supply necessary garniture.
     We have pattern No. 5253 in 7 sizes for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt requires 4 1/2 yards of material 44 inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

Designer February 1901, pg.357, 372, 375, 382, 383

     136B – Ladies’ House Toilette
     No. 6273, Ladies’ Waist or Bodice (with sleeves in two styles), and No. 6214, Ladies’ Five-Gored Flare Skirt (with inverted box plait at the back; to have the regulation top or decided dip, and a slight sweep or round length). – Figured foulard and plain white taffeta where combined for this pretty toilette. Embroidered silk bands supply the decoration.
     No. 6273. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
     Light tan ladies’ cloth and white taffeta were the materials used to make the effective waist shown in the illustration. The centre small view shows the garment with a plain instead of a tucked vest piece and with plain sleeves.
     The waist is mounted on a fitted lining. The back of the material is plain save for a very slight fullness at the waistline, which is disposed in shirring. The lining fronts are concealed by a vest piece, which is attached to the right side and fastens on the left with hooks and eyes. A back-closing strap collar is attached to the neck edge. The side-fronts of the material are shaped at their upper edges and are confined by gathers at the waistline. A shaped and stitched band outlines the side-fronts and the neck edge of the back, and a shaped belt is attached to the lower edge of the bodice. The sleeve is a two-seamed model, gathered into the armhole and ornamented at the lower part by a puffed portion and two small bands, one heading the puff and the other finishing the sleeve at the wrist; if preferred, this puff may be omitted and the sleeve made plain, as in the small view.
     Velvet, panne, surah, silk, ladies’ cloth, cashmere or novelty goods may be used to develop this design, and silver or gold galloon, braid, gimp, insertion, embroidered bands or ribbon may be appropriately used to trim.
     This pattern is cut in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. The 36-inch-bust size requires 4 1/4 yards of material 22 inches wide; 2 5/8 yards 36 inches; 1 7/8 yards 44 inches, or 1 5/8 yards 54 inches. As represented, 3 1/8 yards of 22-inch dark material were used, with 5/8 of a yard of 20 tucked silk for vest, and 3/4 of a yard of 22-inch light material for sleeve puffs, etc.

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

Delineator August 1901, pg.163, 180, 191

      Figure No. 51B. – This illustrates a Ladies’ waist (no. 5254) and skirt (no. 5255). Strips of white lace joined with lacings of narrow black velvet ribbon were associated with pastel-blue mousseline in the construction of the bodice. The fancy fronts are cut low at the top to display a drapery of the mousseline arranged in surplice fashion and extending to the waist. The back is smooth and at the top reveals a full, square yoke in scolloped outline. A collar of the appliqué laced with narrow black velvet ribbon gives the neck finish. Over-sleeves of the appliqué are laced to correspond with the rest of the waist and reveal drooping lower portions finished with lace strap-bands. A velvet belt describes the dip.
     There are five gores in the skirt, which may have an inverted box-plait or gathers at the back and is adapted only for sweep length. It flares at the bottom, where two circular ruffles edged with narrow black velvet ribbon are applied in scolloped, outline, and a band of lace heads the top ruffled. Pastel-blue cloth was used in making the skirt.
     Black taffeta made after this design will be very smart for afternoon wear. Bands of Persian embroidery may be used to trim. White broadcloth, figured foulard and white crepe will also associate well in the mode.
     No. 5254. – Ladies’ Fancy Waist or Bodice.
    
The original and extremely stylish waist shown will commend itself for garden-party, evening and theatre wear. All-over lace and pale-blue silk mull were the materials used in the former instance, with black velvet ribbon for contrast. A fitted lining gives the required support, the lace bodice being shaped low and square to reveal a full yoke at the back and full fronts crossed in surplice fashion over a small front-yoke. The lace fronts are connected by velvet ribbon, and the stylish high collar is laced to accord. A closing is arranged in front, where the mode pouches over a velvet ribbon belt that finishes the waist and outlines the approved dip. The full bishop sleeves drooping over strap-bands have tight over-sleeves extending to the elbow and laced on the outside.
     An exquisite waist may be developed by the mode in black Chantilly lace studded with steel paillettes in combination with yellow mousseline and velvet ribbon of the same color for lacings. Heavy laces, embroidered and plain batiste with motifs of lace and linen, appliqué, taffeta and satin are appropriate to the development of the design.
     We have pattern No. 5254 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30 to 40 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist requires for collar, fancy fronts, fancy back, over-sleeves and strap-bands 2 1/2 yards of material 18 inches wide; 2 1/8 yards of goods 45 inches wide will be needed for bishop sleeves, yoke and surplice fronts. Price, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 5255. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Flare Skirt.
     A graceful flare characterizes the skirt made of linen in the natural color, with pipings of white to trim. Five gores shape the mode, which is designed for sweep length only and has fullness at the back disposed of in gathers or an inverted box-plait. The conventional or more decided dip is given at the top, and the circular ruffles at the bottom, in scolloped outline, may be omitted. In the medium sizes the skirt measures about 4 yards at the lower edge.
     We have pattern No. 5255 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20 to 36 inches waist or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip measure. For a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt with ruffles requires 11 1/4 yards of material 27 inches wide; without ruffles, 7 3/4 yards of goods in the same width, each with 5/8 of a yard of contrasting material 27 inches wide for pipings to trim. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

McCall’s June 1901, pg.601 and 603

 

 

     No. 6576. – Ladies’ Waist, requires for medium size, 4 3/8 yds. Material 22 inches wide, 2 1/2 yds. 36 ins. Wide, or 2 1/2 yds. 36 ins. wide, or 2 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 2 yds; all-over lace represented, 1 yds; silk, 1 1/2 yds; beading, 2 yds; velvet baby ribbon, 10 yds; velvet ribbon for belt, 1 yd; 1 buckle. Cut in 6 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
     No. 6580. – Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt, requires for medium size, 7 yds. Material 22 ins. Wide, 5 1/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, or 4 1/4 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 6 yds; extra material represented for ruffles, 4 yards. Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width around bottom, 4 1/4 yds. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.

Delineator June 1901, pgs. 894, 895, 877, 896

 

 

     Figure No. 231 X. – This unites a Ladies’ waist (no. 5085) and skirt (no.5059). Tucked and plain crepe de Chine in one of the pastel hues of heliotrope are combined in this gown with cream-colored appliqué and white lisse tissue, narrow black velvet ribbon giving a touch of distinction. A graduated, deep, circular flounce gathered under a band of the lace appliqué is a smart feature of the skirt, which is five-gored and has a ripple habit back tucked at the top. The mode is suitable for sweep or round length. A closing is made at the left side-front seam.
     The bolero is still seen on many of the latest designs. The bodice shown on this figure displays a bolero that flares becomingly at the left side. It pouches in front and closes at the centre, the fullness in the back being gathered at the waist-line. A full lower portion and cap facing of lace distinguish the sleeves, which are finished with narrow bands. A crush belt of velvet ribbon outlines the approved dip, and at the neck is a standing collar.
     A gown by this design in blue and white foulard will be exquisite.
     No. 5085. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
     A fancy bolero distinguishes the bodice expressed in rose-pink taffeta, tucked and plain, white chiffon and Russian lace appliqué. The bolero is straight across the back and slightly rounded at the top in front, where it is closed at the left side. The bodice, closing in front, is supported by a fitted lining and displays gathers at the neck and waist in front, the fullness at the back being drawn down tight. Fancy sleeves, mounted on close linings, have over-sleeves capped at the top and terminate below the elbow over full puffs with wristbands. The plain standing collar is covered with lace arranged to form a point at the centre of the front. A crushed belt encircles the waist.
     An especially modish bodice might be developed in mauve voile, cream guipure lace and white mousseline, black velvet ribbon supplying the not of contrast.
     We have pattern No. 5085 in 6 sizes for ladies from 30 to 40 inches, bust measure. To make the waist, including for tucks in the bolero and over-sleeves, for a lady of medium size, requires 4 1/4 yards of goods 20 inches wide; 3/8 of a yard of goods 45 inches wide will be needed for puffs. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
     Skirt 5059 in Delineator May 1901 pgs. 737 and 739.
     No. 5059. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt.
     Graceful lines characterize this skirt developed in bluet cashmere. The design is five-gored and has a ripple habit back tucked at each side of the seam at the centre. The deep, graduated circular flounce, from beneath which the skirt may be cut away, is gathered at the top under a band of lace appliqué, adding much to the general appearance of the mode. The skirt is adaptable for sweep or round length and measures about three yards and one-fourth at the foot in the medium sizes, while the flounce measures about four yards and three-fourths. A slope in conventional or more decided outline is introduced. Patent fasteners effect the closing at the left side-front seam.
     Crepe de Chine in a deep shade of pink know as watermelon, over a foundation of white taffeta, will be exquisite in the mode, and bands of lace insertion will afford decoration. Flowered silk barege is also very fashionable and will make up well in currant red, with insertions of black lace. Blue or self-colored linen, trimmed with embroidered insertion, will develop a stylish and serviceable skirt for morning wear with blouses or shit-waists of lawn, gingham, etc. Other available fabrics are veiling, Eolienne, bunting and albatross.
     We have pattern No. 5059 in 7 sizes for ladies from 20 to 32 inches waist, or 37 to 52 1/2 inches hip measure. To make the skirt with gores extending beneath flounce, for a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, requires 7 1/2 yards of goods 44 inches wide, or 4 3/8 yards of material in the same width for the skirt with gores cut away from beneath flounce. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Delineator December 1901, pg.865, 868, 876

     Figure No. 234B (page 853). – Ladies’ Evening Toilette. – A waist (no. 5532) and skirt (no. 5528) are here united. An artistic result is attained in this smart gown by the association of canary-colored Lansdowne, chiffon and lace, with garniture of chiffon ruches and ruffles and bands of appliqué. The bodice, for which the material was tucked and cut to give a diagonal direction, has a softly blousing front and backs that close at the centre and have slight fullness at the bottom. Low, square outline identifies the neck, and at the front an ornamental section is arranged. Roses are artistically grouped at the left of the corsage. Elbow sleeves in which openings are made to permit the arm to show are introduced, and a graduated frill gives completion. A ribbon belt is worn. A yoke facing may be arranged on the lining if a high-necked bodice be desired, and the sleeves may be in full length.
     The skirt is a very graceful design in evening train length. It is of circular shaping, with a seam at the centre of the habit back. A narrow panel is introduced in the front, and over it is arranged an accordion-plaiting of the chiffon. A graduated, circular flounce is another feature, and the skirt is also adapted for sweep or round length. The new sloping dip is given.
     A handsome development would be in pistache-green Louisine, with Irish point trimmings; another would be pink-amethyst crepe de Chine and self-colored Cluny lace with chiffon or Liberty silk for rosettes. White mousseline de soie over white Swiss taffeta will produce a dainty gown for the debutante. A sash of white satin Liberty will give a pleasing touch, and white roses may be worn.
     No. 5532. – Ladies’ Waist or Bodice.
     The youthful air imparted by the waist is greatly due to the closing at the back. Pinkish-mauve tucked chiffon and lace were used for the making in the first instance, and pearl passementerie and frills and ruches enhanced the effect. The mode is in low, square outline at the top, and across the front a pretty effect is obtained by the introduction of an ornamental section. A chou of ribbon being arranged at the left side. The front is shaped to give the material a diagonal direction from the shoulders to the centre at the bottom, and the fashionable droop is displayed at the lower edge, where a belt defines the new dip. Slight fullness appears at the lower edge of the back, and a fitted lining supports the waist. The sleeves are rendered fanciful by openings bordered with ruches, and a graduated plaiting gives a graceful finish at the elbow. They may, however, be continued to full length, flaring prettily at the wrist. A high-necked development may be obtained by simulating a yoke on the lining.
     The design would be charming carried out in Nile-green crepe de Chine embroidered with pink rosebuds and decorated with pale-pink Juby trimming. White veiling would also be pretty. Other fabrics that give satisfaction are Lansdowne, Louisine, glacé silk and embroidered silk.
     We have pattern No. 5532 in 9 sizes for ladies from 30t to 46 inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the waist needs 3 5/8 yards of material 18 inches wide, with 3/4 of an yard of all-over lace 18 inches wide to cover collar and ornamental section and to simulate yoke, and 7/8 of a yard of chiffon 45 inches wide for plaiting, ruchings and a frill to trim. Price, 9d. or 20 cents.
     No. 5528. – Ladies’ Circular Skirt.
     A circular skirt made of rosewood broadcloth. The mode has a narrow front panel that is framed by the skirt, which laps over in stylish effect and rounds away at the lower edge, but may be square if preferred. The closing is made at the left side, and a habit back is a noticeable feature. Provision is made for round or sweep length, but if intended for evening wear a train may be employed. The circular flounce, from beneath which the skirt may be cut away, flares at the lower edge, measuring in train length about five yards in the medium sizes, while the skirt measures about four yards.
     A reproduction in slate-blue foule, with bands of taffeta, would be in keeping with recent mandates of Fashion. Other popular fabrics are camel’s-hair, diagonal cheviot, serge, vicuna, etc.
     We have pattern No. 5528 in 9 sizes for ladies from 20 to 36 waist or 37 to 58 1/2 inches hip. For a lady of 24 inches waist or 41 inches hip, the skirt with flounce requires 6 1/2 yards of material 50 inches wide; without flounce or with goods cut away beneath flounce, 6 yards in the same width. Price, 1s. or 25 cents.

McCall’s October 1901, pg.824

 

 

 

     To Wear To a Dance. – No. 6752.
     Designed to be cut low neck all round, although the pattern allows a high neck if desired, this waist is especially appropriate for a dancing occasion when it is desirable to be dressed as comfortably as possible. Made of point d’esprit, the under waist of silk may be of any desired color, but is preferably white. The garment fastens in the back and this allows the fullness of the front to remain unmarred, by even hidden fastenings. As the material is so gossamer-like, the sleeves are wrinkled to the elbow and finished with a graduated frill of lace. With the waist is worn a skirt of heavy black lace made over white. It would be possible to use this waist pattern for a black net or chiffon which, made over white would appropriately accompany the skirt.
     For a hair trimming there is an aigrette of white and black fronds held by one of the pretty novelty brooches, a butterfly studded with mock jewels.
     No. 6752. – Ladies’ Draped Waist (High or Low Neck, Long or Elbow Sleeves), requires for medium size, if made as represented, 3 5/8 yds. material 22 ins. wide, 2 3/4 yds. 36 ins. wide, or 1 7/8 yds. 44 ins. wide. Lining required, 2 yds; lace represented, 1 1/4 yds. Cut in 5 sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40 inches bust measure. Price, 15 cents.
     No. 6756. – Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (with Circular Flare), requires for medium size, 10 1/2 yards material 22 inches wide, 7 yards 36 inches wide, or 6 yards 44 inches wide. Lining required, 5 1/2 yards; satin represented for folds, 3 yards Length of skirt in front, 42 inches; width around bottom, 3 3/4 yards. Cut in 6 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches waist measure. Price, 15 cents.

 

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