1900s Under Dress

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Petticoat 1904

McCall Pattern No. 8693 (All Seams Allowed).

Cut in 7 sizes, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches waist measure.

No. 8693. Ladies' Five-Gored Petticoat (in Round, Short-Round or Instep Length, with Inverted Pleat or Gathers at the Back, a Circular Flounce lengthened by a Circular Ruffle, trimmed in either of two styles and beneath which the Skirt may be cut away or finished with a Dust Ruffle), requires for medium size, 13 ½ yds. Material 22 ins. wide, 7 ¾ yds. 36 ins. wide, or 6 yds. 44 ins. wide. Length of skirt in front, 41 ins.; width around bottom, 5 ½ yds.

Price, 15 cents.

The New Petticoats and Drop Skirts

With this season's return to fuller skirts Dame Fashion has once more dictated that all petticoats or drop skirts must have some additional stiffening around the ankle and in many models almost to the knee in order that they may hang gracefully and not fall in around the feet, thereby giving a cumbersome and ungainly effect to the wearer as is so often the case with a superfluity of fullness. A stiff interlining of some sort naturally suggested itself, but it was absolutely necessary that this be something light and easy to manage as women in general have at last taken a firm stand against such heavy and cumbrous skirts as were worn when interlinings were last in vogue. Yet to expect the new skirts to hang well with no support but an unlined petticoat was to court a certain disappointment.

When the Paris models began to come in it was seen that nearly all the new petticoats and drop skirts had some stiffening set in at the bead of the dust ruffle, while in a few it ascended to the height of the knee. Then some bright mind thought of putting in the petticoat a circular ruffle of very light weight haircloth, and so the puzzle was most satisfactorily solved by the Lily Haircloth Flounce as it is called.

One of The New Petticoats and Drop Skirts the very latest and most satisfactory of the new petticoats is illustrated on this page in pattern No. 8693. This is cut with five gores and may be made up in either round, short-round or instep length as preferred and have its back fullness arranged in either an inverted pleat or gathers. It is finished by a circular flounce of the material interlined with the haircloth flounce just mentioned which brings it well above the tops of the shoes and thus prevents fraying of the haircloth. The haircloth flounce should be placed on the circular flounce of the petticoat and the back faced with a piece of the material before it is stitched on to the petticoat or drop skirt. It is lengthened by a circular ruffle trimmed in either of two styles as shown in the illustration. When the Lily Haircloth Flounce is used the lower part of this skirt under the circular flounce must be cut away, but if made up without haircloth it is left as it is in the pattern. Taffeta, pres-de-soie, silk finished percaline, any serviceable lining material or fine mohair can be used for making this design, and it can be trimmed with ruches of the material or accordion pleated ruffles.

from McCall's November 1904, pg.168

Little Bustle 1906

         Though the return of the hoop skirt has been nothing more than a rumor, yet that very distant relative of the dreaded crinoline – the bustle- is already among us, and is creating quite a commotion in the fashion world.
         It’s just a little bustle, and it has really made its appearance because it was needed. Think of all the women whose backs are hollow just below the waist line, and who need some little elevation there to make their skirts hang as they should.
         The new bustle has much in its favor – daintiness and lightness. It is filled with the finest of feather down, and covered with either sateen or silk. It is correctly shaped, and is stiffened just sufficiently to make it a bustle and to hold its form. As there is nothing heavy or heating about it, it is quite hygienic enough to be thoroughly recommended.

from Women's Home Companion January 1906, pg. 23

Petticoat 1908

No. 2104 (15 cents).

This is the very latest idea of Dame Fashion for a petticoat and is made in two pieces, with inserted pieces at the lower edge. It is an excellent design for taffeta, heatherbloom, pongee, mohair or white petticoats of muslin, cambric, lawn, etc. The pattern comes in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, and requires for the twenty-six inch size five and five-eights yards of material twenty-two inches wide or three and a half yards thirty-six inches wide.

It is four and one-eighth yards around the bottom.

 

from McCall's May 1908, pg. 692

 

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