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Delineator March 1900 pg.301,306, & 323
Figure No. 123R. – This embraces a Ladies’ jacket
(no.3776) and skirt (no. 3748).
  
The skirt forming part
of this toilette is cut on unique lines. It is a four-gored mode
that is adjusted in sheath style at the front and sides, but has a
double box-plait at the back. At the lower part of each side-front
seam is formed an under box-plait, the impression of a slashed skirt
being thus given below the knee. The skirt is here shown made of
mixed brown cheviot and is embellished with an embroidered design
done in brown silk.
The close-fitting Eton jacket is slightly
double-breasted, and the fronts are deepened at the center to form a
point. A velvet rolling collar reverses the fronts in lapels, and
the sleeves are in two-seam style. Dark-brown cloth was selected for
the jacket, which is finished with stitching.
Such a toilette may be developed in cloth, serge or
zibeline and finished with self-strappings or stitched bands of
taffeta.
Ladies’ Slightly Double-Breasted Eton Jacket.
(To Be Made With or Without the Center-Back Seam and with Pointed or
Rounded Collar and Lapels.)
No. 3776. – A natty Eton jacket is here shown made of
gray cloth and finished with machine-stitching. It terminates at the
waist at the back and sides, but at the front it extends in a point
a little below the line of the waist. The jacket, which is slightly
double-breasted, is snugly adjusted by single bust-darts and
under-arm and side-back gores, and may be made either with or
without a center-back seam. The back may be straight or curved at
the lower edge, and the jacket may be worn open or closed. Above the
closing the fronts are turned back in revers by the rolling collar,
and gathers collect the fullness at the top of the two-seam sleeve.
Velvet, serge, cheviot, etc., will be suitable for the
jacket, the collar and revers of which may be faced with silk or
satin.
We have pattern No. 3776 in nine sizes for ladies from
thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure. To make the Eton jacket
for a lady of medium size requires a yard and a half of material
fifty-four inches wide. Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Four-Gored Skirt,
Having an Under Box-Plait At The Lower Part of Each Side-Front Seam
and a Double Box-Plait at the Back.
(To Be Made In Dip Or Round Length.)
No. 3748. – This skirt is one of the newest designs and
is in this instance developed in broadcloth of a fashionable light
shade and decorated simply but effectively with self-strappings. The
skirt is a four-gored style and consists of a front-gore, a side
dart-fitted gore at each side and a back-gore; it is arranged in a
double box-plait at the center of the back, the plait broadening
gradually toward the bottom. The skirt ripples slightly below the
hips, and extra width, arranged in an under-folded box-plait, is
introduced at each side-front seam below the knee. The skirt flares
becomingly to the lower edge, where in the medium sizes with the
front plaits laid in it measures about three yards and a half at the
lower edge. If the figure be slight, hip conformers or pads should
be worn. The placket is made above the left side-front seam.
Electric cloth, satin Liberty cloth, camel’s-hair,
Bedford cord, veiling, crépon, crêpe de Chine
and a variety of other fabrics will develop handsome skirts by the
mode, with braid, passementerie or appliqué band for garniture.
Serviceable skirts may be made of serge, cheviot, or homespun.
We have pattern No. 3748 in nine sizes for ladies from
twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or from thirty-six to fifty-seven
and a half inches hip measure. To make the skirt of material with
figure or nap for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty inches
hip, requires five yards fifty inches wide. Of material without
figure or nap, it needs four yards in the same width. Price of
pattern, 10d. or 20 cents. |
    
Delineator
August 1900
pg. 159,168
Figure No. 46T. – Ladies’
Toilette. – This illustrates a Ladies’ Eton jacket (no.4188) and
skirt (no.4168).
Light-weight cloth in
a fashionable shade of steel-blue and white silk were here combined
in the development of the modish toilette, the effectiveness of
which is enhanced by the garniture of white cloth appliqué outlined
by fine silk braid. The Eton is on the newest cut and is closely
adjusted; it is in this instance made without a collar and extends
only to the waist at the back, but dips at the front. The
hatchet-shaped revers are a feature of the mode, which has
close-fitting two-seam sleeves and flares to reveal a silk
shirt-waist with which is worn a removable turn-down collar and
ribbon tie.
The three-piece skirt is tucked at the sides to
graceful flounce depth and has its fullness at the back laid in an
inverted box-plait.
Taffeta, mohair, cheviot and homespun will develop the
toilette stylishly, and the revers may be faced with polka-dotted
silk or of plain silk overlaid with lace. A smart toilette for
morning wear could be made of plain and figured cotton vesting, the
plain variety being used for the skirt.
Ladies’ Eton Jacket. To Be Made with a Flaring
or Turn-Down Collar Or Without any Collar
No. 4188. – The Eton shows no sign of waning popularity
and is seen in numerous designs and materials and decorated in
almost every conceivable manner or plainly finished. The one
illustrated is a pleasing compromise of the severely plain and the
more elaborate styles and is here developed in stone-gray
lady’s-cloth combined with all-over lace over white satin and
decorated with lace edging. It is also pictured made of cloth with
machine-stitching for the finish. The fronts of the jacket are
turned back to form hatchet-shaped revers that are features of the
mode, which is closely adjusted and is made without a center-back
seam. The pattern provides for either a high flaring or turn-down
collar, but, if preferred, the jacket may be made without a collar.
The fronts are dart-fitted and closed in double-breasted style with
buttons and cord loops. The Eton deepens slightly at the front, but
at the sides and back it terminates at the waist. The tow-seam
sleeves are comfortably adjusted.
A dressy jacket could be developed in tucked black
taffeta, with facings of white satin for the collar and revers and
bands of black velvet ribbon or lace appliqué for trimming. A lining
of soft Marie Antoinette silk would add materially to the
attractiveness of the mode. A stylish Eton could be made of black
cloth decorated with appliqués of satin and narrow black braid.
We have pattern No. 4188 in nine sizes for ladies from
thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure. To make the jacket for
lady of medium size, needs a yard and one-half of material
fifty-four inches wide, with a yard of satin twenty inches wide and
a yard of all-over lace in the same width for covering the revers
and the inside of flare collar and for underfacing the fronts. Price
of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4168 and costs
1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches,
waist measure. |
    
Delineator September 1900, pg.297, 305, 320, 323,
365
This illustrates a Ladies’ blouse Eton
(no. 4352) and skirt (no.4290).
  
It would be difficult to excel in style and
effectiveness the simple toilette shown at this figure. Light-weight
red broadcloth was the material employed, with a rich decoration of
black silk appliqué on facings of white satin. The double-breasted
blouse Eton is in this instance worn closed and is turned back at
the top in revers that frame a vest front of embroidered batiste.
The revers form the front of a deep sailor-collar, but, if desired,
the fronts may be reversed to the bottom to expose the vest front in
full length. The sleeves are closely adjusted, and a standing collar
finishes the neck of the vest front; machine-stitching gives a neat
finish to the Eton, with which is worn a ribbon belt.
A pleasing feature of the seven-gored skirt is the
introduction of a side-plait at the lower part of each side seam and
an inverted box-plait at the back. The skirt shows the fashionable
dip effect at the top in front, and in this instance, is in
short-sweep length.
Serge, cheviot, Venetian cloth, homespun, zibeline,
suiting, duck and linen will develop stylish toilettes by the mode
with self-strapping, braid or any favored garniture. A handsome
traveling toilette for an early Autumn bride is of gray-blue
cheviot-serge, with inlays of black panne satin in the sailor collar
and revers, and cuff-facings of the same on the sleeves. The vest
front was of finely tucked batiste.
Ladies’ Double-Breasted Blouse Eton.
No. 4352. – The distinguishing features of the
jaunty blouse Eton, here shown in a stylish combination of navy-blue
and white serge with machine-stitching for the finish, are the vest
front and sailor collar. The Eton may be worn open or closed and
with or without the vest front. It has a smooth, seamless back, but
at the front has pretty fullness at the bottom that blouses
attractively. The fronts are broadly reversed at the top to form the
front of the deep, square sailor-collar. They are closed in
double-breasted style with loops and gilt buttons, but may be rolled
back to the bottom if liked. The smooth vest-front blouses stylishly
and is completed with a standing collar closed at the back. A narrow
applied belt encircles the waist, and the coat sleeves are of
fashionable shaping.
The sailor collar and vest front of a yachting blouse
could be ornamented with embroidered anchors or some other
appropriate emblems. Cheviot, mohair, suiting, fine flannel and
lady’s-cloth will develop the mode satisfactorily, and braid,
strappings of the material or lace appliqué may be used for
decoration.
We have pattern No. 4352 in seven sizes for ladies from
thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure. To make the Eton for a
lady of medium size, requires two yards and an eighth of goods
forty-four inches wide, with three-fourths of a yard of contrasting
material in the same width for the standing collar and vest front.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Seven-Gored Skirt.
No. 4290. – Numerous and in great variety are the skirt
designs this season, and the attractive one here illustrated
developed in beige broadcloth shows the fashionable dip that is so
popular. It is in seven-gored style, comprising a front-gore, two
gores at each side and two back-gores, and is smoothly fitted at the
upper part. The skirt is shaped at the top to give the popular dip
that is a feature of fashionable modes; this effect may, however, be
slight or very decided, according to preference. Extra width allowed
at the lower part of each side seam and arranged in a side plait
induces a stylish flare at the foot, an essential characteristic of
the up-to-date skirt. The mode, which may be in round or short-sweep
length, has it fullness at the back laid in an inverted box-plait
and falls in an outline of about three yards and three-fourths in
the medium sizes.
The design will develop attractively in voile, surah,
taffeta, foulard, serge, homespun, veiling, English suiting, etc.,
with ribbon, braid, insertion and passementerie for trimming. The
mode is desirable for street or ceremonious wear, and the use for
which the skirt is intended will decide as to the material and
trimming. Mauve crêpe will develop a handsome skirt for wear with
dressy shirt-waists, a band of heavy écru lace insertion being let
in at the bottom. A fashionable skirt is of figured rose-and-white
Liberty satin, with bands of Russian appliqué lace for decoration.
We have pattern No. 4290 in seven sizes for ladies from
twenty to thirty-two inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-two and
one-half inches hip measure. To make the skirt of material with
figure or nap for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one
inches hip, will require four yards and three-fourths fifty inches
wide; of goods without figure or nap, four yards in the same width
will be needed. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents. |
   
Delineator August 1900, pg. 159, 164, 173
This portrays a ladies’ Empire gown (no.4187).
Empire gowns are
decidedly en règle this season for evening wear, and no
design can excel in grace and becomingness the example here
illustrated developed in contrasting shades of violet crepe de Chine
and panne. The skirt, which has a short train and is seamed at the
sides and back, is gathered at the top, where it is joined to the
smooth, short body. The circular shaping of the skirt causes it to
fall in graceful ripples at the bottom, where rows of chiffon
ruchings enhance the effect. A feature of the gown is the
jaquette, which, at the back, follows the
scolloped upper edge of the body and is in inverted V outline at the
bottom. The fronts of the jaquette separate
over the body, which is concealed by an applied yoke and a sash that
starts from the under-arm seams beneath the jaquette
and is bowed at the center. The short sleeves are fancifully shaped
at the bottom, and appliqués of lace provide ornamentation.
A dainty Empire gown could be made of white point
d’esprit over Nile-green India silk, with silk or panne for the
jaquette and yoke, and ruffles of point
d’esprit for decoration. The sash could be of crepe de Chine,
chiffon, mousseline or net. Vailing, cashmere, surah and other soft
silk and woolen fabrics could be attractively combined with all-over
lace by the mode. A guimpe is included in the pattern.
Ladies’ Empire Gown, With Short Train.
(To Be Worn With or Without The Guimpe, The Sleeves of Which May Be
In Either Of Two Lengths.)
No. 4187. – The gracefulness of the Empire gown retains
for it many admirers, and rumors of its again coming into popularity
will be hailed with delight by many. An exceptionally handsome gown
of this style that is suitable for dinners or receptions as well as
for house wear is here represented. In the present instance violet
Lansdowne is associated with panne of a darker shade and white
chiffon, narrow ruffles of the Lansdowne and lace appliqué band
providing ornamentation. The short body is fitted with single bust
darts and is low and square at the neck in front, but in fanciful
low outline at the back. It curves up prettily at the lower edge and
closes at the center in front. The jaquette
is seamed separately on the shoulders and under the arms and follows
the outline of the body both top and bottom at the back, but rounds
away gracefully in front, where it reveals the applied pointed yoke
that hides the body closing. It is completed with short sleeves that
are curved up stylishly on the upper side. A graceful adjunct of the
Empire gown is the sash, which starts from under the arms beneath
the jaquette and is bowed in front, the long
ends falling almost to the lower edge of the gown. The skirt is in
three-piece style and is slightly gathered all around at the top,
the fullness at the back being more pronounced. The mode falls in
graceful folds to the lower edge and is made with a short train.
The guimpe is made of all-over lace and is smoothly
adjusted; it terminates a short distance above the waist-line and
closes at the back. The one-seam sleeves are without the slightest
suggestion of fullness at the top and are given a soft finish by a
frill of lace; they may be in elbow or full-length. The stock rises
in scallops at the side.
The Empire gown possesses charming possibilities, and
much originality and taste appear in some of the new combinations.
The mode was coped in mauve with heliotrope panne and decorated with
passementerie. China silk and foulard, cashmere, Henrietta and
veiling are suitable for the gown, with velvet, panne or satin
overlaid with lace for the jaquette. A rich
development was in silk brilliant showing sprays of pale-yellow
flowers on a white ground. The jaquette was
of white satin overlaid with yellow lace.
We have pattern No. 4187 in seven sizes for ladies form
thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure. To make the gown for a
lady of medium size, including ruffles three inches wide to trim,
requires five yards and seven-eighths of goods forty-four inches
wide. The guimpe needs a yard and seven-eighths twenty inches wide,
the jaquette and front-yoke, a yard and
three-eighths twenty inches wide, and the sash a yard and
five-eighths thirty-six or more inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s.
3d. or 30 cents. |
   
Delineator November 1900, pgs. 593-594, 573, 600, 607
Figure
No. 187T. – This comprises a Ladies’ coat (no.4482) and skirt
(no.4448).
   
For shopping, touring,
etc., this toilette will prove particularly acceptable. English
suiting and dark velvet were employed in the development, a
tailor-like finish being given by stitching. The coat, which shows
the long shoulder effect that is characteristic of military styles,
is fitted closely; it is gored to the shoulders, both front and
back, and closed in double-breasted fashion with buttons and
button-holes. The fronts are turned back above the closing in
stylish lapels that extend in points beyond the ends of the rolling
collar, and at the lower edge the coat is fancifully shaped. The
close-fitting sleeves are scolloped at the wrists and flare over the
hands.
The one-piece circular skirt is fitted perfectly close
at the top, the fullness at the back being laid in an inverted
box-plait. It ripples gracefully at the bottom and is in instep
length.
Broadcloth, melton, kersey and similar coatings will
develop the made stylishly, with braid, self-strappings or velvet
for the finish. The skirt is equally desirable for plaids and
pattern fabrics as for plain goods.
No. 4482 – Ladies’ Coat or Jacket.
This well-shaped coat is here shown made of
fawn-colored broadcloth with rows of machine-stitching for the
finish. The back and sides are closely adjusted and the fronts are
fitted with seams that extend like the side-back seams to the
shoulders. Above the closing, which is made in double-breasted style
with buttons and button-holes, the fronts are turned back in lapels
that extend beyond the ends of the deep rolling collar. The two-seam
sleeves are of correct shaping and are cut in scallops to fall over
the hand, and the coat may be straight-around or fancy at the lower
edge, according to individual preference.
A handsome coat might be of black satin-faced cloth
with an inlay of velvet on the collar and lapels. Cheviot, melton in
medium weight, covert cloth, Venetian, tweed and tailor cloths of
all descriptions are suitable for the reproduction of the design,
and the finish will be generally machine-stitching.
We have pattern No. 4482 in nine sizes for ladies from
thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure. For a lady of mediums
size, the coat requires a yard and three-fourths of goods fifty-four
inches wide. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
*information below from October 1900, pgs. 462, 464*
Ladies’ One-Piece or Two-Piece Circular Skirt.
No. 4448. – The practical woman recognizes the
benefits to be obtained from wearing the slightly shortened skirt,
and, in consequence, this useful garment is not only an acknowledged
but a necessary part of the well-ordered outfit. A skirt that will
be sure to meet with appreciation is here shown made of cloth. In
one instance the material is plain and in the other plaid stitching
giving the finish in both cases. The mode is of circular shaping and
is cut in one-piece, but may be in two-piece style with a seam at
the centre of the front and back, if preferred. A dip at the top of
the front that may be conventional or more pronounced distinguishes
the skirt, which is dart-fitted over the hips and has fullness at
the back laid in an under-folded box-plait that is stitched for a
short distance. The skirt ripples with becoming fullness at the
lower edge, where it measures about three yards in the medium sizes,
and may be made in instep or shorter length. The mode is a
particularly desirable one for touring, shopping, stormy-weather
wear and for outdoor sports of all descriptions, and is equally
desirable for plaids and pattern fabrics as for plain goods.
For golfing skirts the favorite color is a very dark
iron-gray or black. Oxford suiting will develop the mode stylishly.
We have pattern No. 4448 in nine sizes for ladies from
twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-eight
and one-half inches hip measure. For a lady of twenty-four inches
waist or forty-one inches hip, the one-piece skirt needs two yards
and seven-eighths of goods fifty-eight inches wide; two yards and
three-fourths of goods in the same width will be required for the
two-piece skirt. Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents. |
   
Delineator March 1900, pg. 302, 310, 316, 320, 324
Figure No. 125R. – This includes
a Ladies’ waist (no. 3757) and skirt (no. 3822).
 
Dainty in the extreme is the dressy gown here depicted made of blue
vailing and tucked white silk and lavishly adorned with buttons,
appliqués of chiffon and ruffles of embroidered chiffon. The skirt
is exceedingly attractive. A cluster of tiny dart-shaped tucks is
taken up at each side, which, together with a group of wider and
deeper tucks at the center of the back, where the skirt is laid in a
box-plait, remover all the fullness at the top. The skirt is in
four-gored style and is fashioned with a sweep.
The waist has a seamless back, tucked at the bottom and
smooth at the top, where it overlaps a deep square yoke. The full
fronts are gathered at the bottom, tucked at the arm-hole and flare
broadly over a fancy yoke-chemisette. Two ruffles of chiffon are
cascaded down the closing, and the standing collar is beautified by
two turn-over sections and a jaunty bow of orange panne. A flaring
cuff finishes the small, close-fitting sleeve, which is cut out at
the top on the upper side to disclose the cap-facing.
In light-weight cloth or Liberty cashmere, associated
with Liberty satin heavily encrusted with silver paillettes, the
gown will be remarkably stylish.
Ladies’ Basque-Waist, Having a Fancy
Yoke-Chemisette That May Be Plain or Tucked.
No. 3757. – Charming results are attained in the
present development of the stylish basque-waist by the combination
of corded and plain silk. Appliqué lace, buttons, velvet ribbon and
a chiffon jabot supply ornamentation. The back and fronts of the
waist are shaped to accommodate a smooth, fancy yoke-chemisette that
reaches to the lower edge in front but only to yoke depth at the
back. The fronts have their fullness taken up in a group of small,
upward-turning tucks at the arm-hole, below which they puff out
prettily to the lower edge, where they are drawn in close by
shirrings. The fullness in the lower part of the back is also taken
up in small tucks. The upper portion of the two-seam sleeve is cut
away at the top to reveal a cap-facing arranged on the lining. The
sleeve has only slight gathered fullness at the top, and is finished
with circular flare cuffs. A standing collar with fancy flare
sections completes the neck of the waist, which is made over a
dart-fitted lining that closes with the waist at the center of the
front.
Satin-faced cloth and silk, silk cashmere and lace,
satin de soie and spangled net are appropriate combinations for the
waist.
We have pattern No. 3757 in eight sizes for ladies from
thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure. To make the basque-waist
for a lady of medium size, will require two yards and a half of
material twenty inches wide, with a yard of material in the same
width for the chemisette fronts, back-yoke, sleeve facings, collar
and collar ornaments. Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Skirt: Consisting of a Five-Gored
Foundation Skirt That May Be Omitted, And a Four-Gored Skirt Fitted
To the Belt With Tucks At the Sides and With a Tucked Box-Plait At
the Back. (To Be Made With a Sweep or In Round Length.)
No. 3822. – Tucking seems to have gained a firm
foothold in the world of fashion and appears quite as largely on
skirts as on bodices this season. A very gracefully designed skirt
is here shown developed in white India silk figured in light-blue.
The skirt has four gores – a front-gore, a wide gore at each side
and a back-gore. The fullness at the back of the skirt is arranged
in a box-plait on the outside, a group of backward-turning tucks
appearing between the outer folds of the plait. The tucks are of
even depth and extend about ten inches below the belt, the resulting
fullness flaring gracefully to the lower edge. A cluster of tiny
dart-shaped tucks that taper to points at the bottom removes the
fullness over each hip, and a ruffle of the material shaped in
scalloped outline at the top and headed by a band of lace appliqué,
gives a pretty finish at the lower edge. The skirt, which may be
made with a sweep or in round length, is made over a five-gored
foundation skirt that may be used or not and is fitted over the hips
by a dart at each side. The skirt measures about four yards round at
the bottom, and hip-conformers should be worn, if the figure be
slender.
A skirt of gray satin-faced cloth made by this mode and
trimmed with bands of appliqué lace would be handsome. Such fabrics
as Liberty satin, panne, etc., will be suitable for the design.
We have pattern No. 3822 in nine sizes for ladies from
twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or from thirty-six to fifty-seven
and a half inches hip measure. To make the skirt of material with
figure or nap for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty inches
hip, requires eight yards and a half twenty inches wide. Of material
without figure or nap, it needs seven yards and an eighth in the
same width. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
|
      
  
Designer April 1900, pg. 23, 36, 39, 45, 48
No. 5644, Ladies’
Waist (with or without guimpe), and No. 5662, Ladies’ Five-Gored
Skirt (desirable for diaphanous or wash fabrics). White silk printed
with lilacs in their natural colors is used to make this toilette.
The waist yoke is of white tucked taffeta. Waist and skirt are
trimmed with pleated white chiffon and lilac ribbon.
Ladies’ Waist (with or without guimpe).
No. 5644. – This especially dainty and effective waist
as here shown is made of white point d’esprit, combined with
all-over lace and trimmed with narrow lace edging, beading and
shirred blue satin ribbon. The guimpe is fitted by shoulder,
under-arm and side-back seams and closes at the centre of the back.
The fullness of the front is collected in gathers at the waistline.
The neck is finished with a fancy standing collar. The one-piece
sleeve is of ribbon-striped point d’esprit, and is fitted by an
inside arm seam and a dart seam below the elbow. The lower edge
flares prettily over the hand and is trimmed with lace edging. The
waist is fitted by shoulder and under-arm seams and closes at the
left side. The fullness of the front is collected in gatherers at
the upper edge and at the waist-line, and that of the back is also
disposed in gathers at the waist-line. The pretty bertha is in one
piece. It is attached to the upper edge of the waist and closes on
the left shoulder. Beading and baby ribbon, in addition to the
edging of lace, form an effective decoration. A girdle of velvet
fastening with a gold buckle completes the lower edge of the waist
as pictured in the large views, although the shaped basque piece may
be attached, if preferred, as shown in the two small illustrations
of the waist. The remaining small views depict the back and front of
guimpe without the waist.
The waist may be made in lawn, swiss, dimity, organdie,
net, mull, silk, challis, cashmere, henrietta, etc., and may be
trimmed with lace, ribbon, braid or embroidery.
This pattern is cut in seven sizes, for ladies from
thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20
cents. The medium size requires three and one-half yards of material
twenty-two inches wide; three yards thirty inches; two and
one-eighth yards forty inches, or two yards fifty inches. As
represented, one and seven-eights yards of fifty-four-inch point
d’esprit were used, with three quarts of a yard of twenty-inch lace
for collar, etc., forty and one-half yards of shirred baby ribbon to
trim sleeves and bertha, one and one-quarter yards of lace beading
to trim bertha, eight and one-half yards of velvet ribbon to run
through beading, and six and three-quarters yards of lace edging to
trim collar, etc.
Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt (Desirable for
Diaphanous or Wash Fabrics).
No. 5662. – The very pretty skirt here pictured is made
of white point d’esprit, trimmed with a flounce of the material,
fancy insertion and white satin baby ribbon.
The skirt consists of a front, two side and two back
gores. The fullness at the upper edge is collected in gathers, the
main part of it being at the back. The upper edge is finished with a
narrow belt, and the placket opening is made at the centre of the
back. A ruffle of material is attached near the lower edge and rows
of insertion and narrow ribbon further enhance the dainty effect.
The small view shows this garment without trimming. When a slip
skirt is desired it is cut in the same way as the outer one.
Lawn, dimity, organdie, swiss, mull, chiffon, net,
etc., may be selected to develop this pattern, lace, ribbon, braid
or embroidery forming the garniture.
This pattern is cut in seven sizes, for ladies from
twenty to thirty-tow inches waist measure, and costs 10d. or 20
cents. If goods show up-and-down cast, figure or nap, all pieces
must be laid one way, and the medium size will require,
for whole garment, without ruffles, six and one-half yards of
material twenty-seven inches wide; five and three-eighths yards
thirty-six inches; four and five-eighths yards forty-four inches, or
three and three-quarters yards fifty-four inches. As represented,
five yards of fifty-four-inch lace net were used. Of goods showing
no up-and-down cast, figure or nap the medium size will require,
without ruffles, only five and three-quarters yards of material
twenty-seven inches wide; four and seven-eighths yards thirty-six
inches; four yards forty-four inches, or three and one-half yards
fifty-four inches, with three and seven-eighths yards of skirt
binding. As represented, four and three-quarters yards of
fifty-four-inch lace net were used, with thirteen and three-quarters
yards of lace insertion to trim and twenty and one-half yards of
white satin baby ribbon to trim the edges of the ruffles. |
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Designer April
1900, pg. 23, 37, 41, 46, 49
No. 5639, Ladies’ Waist, and No. 5658, Ladies’ Shirred
Skirt. Both garments are made of pink dotted swiss. The waist has a
yoke of all-over lace, and black velvet ribbon is used for trimming.
Lace insertion and small silver buckles also decorate the skirt.
 
Ladies’ Waist.
No. 5639. – This pretty waist is here made of navy-blue
taffeta combined with pale blue pleated chiffon, and trimmed with
black lace insertion and black lace. The waist lining is fitted by
shoulder, under-arm, side-back and centre-back seams, also double
bust-darts. The fronts and back are faced to simulate a yoke, the
front facing extending to the waistline at the centre. The closing
of the yoke-vest is made at the left side. The front and back waist
portions are cut low at the neck, and the fullness of the fronts at
the waist-line is collected in gathers. The neck is finished with a
standing collar, and a belt of ribbon velvet finishes the lower edge
of the waist. The sleeve is a stylish one-piece model, having a dart
seam below the elbow. It is cut in a point over the hand and is most
effectively trimmed with insertion. The fronts and collar of this
waist are also decorated with insertion. The small view shows this
garment with the lining portions below the waist-line left intact.
The waist may be made of silk, cashmere, henrietta,
serge, poplin, net, grenadine or wash materials, and may be trimmed
with lace, ribbon, braid, gimp or embroidery.
This pattern is cut in seven sizes, for ladies from
thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, and costs 10d. or 20
cents. The medium size requires three and one-half yards of material
twenty-two inches wide; two and three eights yards thirty inches;
one and three-quarters yards forty inches, or one and three-eighths
yards fifty inches. As represented, two and three-quarters yards of
twenty-two-inch silk were used, with three-quarters of a yard of
twenty-inch pleated chiffon for vest, etc., seven and one-half yards
of lace insertion, one and seven-eighths yards of lace edging to
trim, also one and one-quarter yards of ribbon for belt and bow.
Ladies’ Shirred Skirt.
No. 5658. – The skirt displayed in the accompanying
illustration is a charming design for development in thin materials.
As pictured it is made of white mousseline de soie over pink satin,
and is ornamented with many rosettes of deep rose-pink velvet.
The skirt consists of a seven-gored foundation. On this
the full gores of the material are arranged. These are gathered
along the seam edges of each gore of the foundation skirt. A narrow
belt finishes the upper edge of the skirt and the bottom is faced.
The foundation skirt may be made of silk, satin,
percaline, lawn or organdie, and the full portions may be of
mousseline de soie, grenadine, Brussels net, point d’esprit, fancy
gauze, lace, net or any soft, light-weight material. Lengthwise
bands of embroidery, gimp, narrow passementerie or lace insertion
may be applied to the seams of the gores, or rosettes of lace,
velvet, silk or ribbon may be use to trim.
This pattern is cut in five sizes, from twenty to
twenty-eight inches waist measure, and costs 10d. or 20 cents. If
goods show up-and-down cast, figure or nap, all pieces must
be laid one way, and the medium size will require, for whole
garment, twelve and three-quarters yards of material twenty-two
inches wide; eight and one-half yards thirty inches; six and
one-quarter yards forty inches, or four and three-quarters yards
fifty inches. Of goods showing no up-and-down cast, figure or nap
the medium size will require only ten and one-eighth yards of
material twenty-two inches wide; six and three quarters yards thirty
inches; four and five-eighths yards forty inches, or four and
one-eighth yards fifty inches, with six and one-quarter yards of
material twenty-two inches wide for under-skirt and three yards of
skirt binding. As represented, sixty-two yards of ribbon were used
for rosettes. |
Delineator December 1900, pg. 739; 233T.
Back view and information not available.
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Delineator December 1900, pg. 739; 234T.
Back view and information not available.
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